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Xl1200r
Posted on Tuesday, October 12, 2010 - 11:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Based on an overwhelming recommendation on this board, I bought an Onkyo home theater system a couple years ago and have enjoyed it immensely.

But now it's broke.

What happens is the sound will be fine and then you'll get a loud pop, and the sound cuts out. Sometimes turning the unit off and back on will restore the sound, and sometimes switching the surround sound mode (DTS, mono, etc) will bring it back. Sometimes not. Sometimes it will go days without acting up, something it won't go a minute before cutting out. Sometimes turning the source off and back on will restore it and sometimes not.

It's done this with my cable box, a DVD played and my Playstation 3, using a combination of RCA and optical audio cables on multiple channels.

I'm thinking the unit thinks the signal is in a format that is incorrect and can't process the sound (based on my bring able to change the surround sound mode and getting sound back), but I really have no idea.

It's a cheaper receiver, model number is an HT-R550, which is the same thing as a TX-SR505 (they gave it a different model number if it's in a bundle with speakers and a sub).

Any help is much appreciated. Money is tight and I really can't afford to buy another...
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Greg_e
Posted on Tuesday, October 12, 2010 - 11:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cold solder joint that opens when it gets warm.
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07xb12ss
Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2010 - 12:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

could be a bad speaker. or the amp clipping. you can check the impedance on each speaker with a multi-meter.

i wouldn't recommend onkyo to anyone.
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Pwnzor
Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2010 - 08:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i wouldn't recommend onkyo to anyone.

Can't imagine what you base that on. I've been rocking Onkyo receivers for over 25 years with no issues. Sound quality is hard to beat, and packed with features at a competitive price.

That being said, my first inclination would be a solder joint somewhere, as was mentioned above. First place I'd check would be inside the back panel where you attach your cables. If you're using Monster Cable brand RCA's they tend to fit VERY tight. Pushing them on and pulling them off causes stress on the circuit board the female plugs are soldered to. If you're handy with a soldering iron, you can go around and just add a bit of solder to each of the connectors instead of trying to find out which one it is. In fact it could be on multiple plugs.

I love my Onkyo receiver and cassette deck. Of course, the crown jewel is the Akai 1721W reel to reel up top.

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Pwnzor
Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2010 - 08:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh, forgot to mention...

Dialectric grease on your RCA plugs will help those Monster Cables go on and come off easily, while giving the best possible connection.

Just a thin layer, applied with a Q-tip.
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Xl1200r
Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2010 - 09:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks, guys. I'm not electrical wizard, but I got a buddy who is so I'll get him down here to take a look with me and use his multi meter and solder iron.

Pwn - I'm not using any RCA style cables now, but I have in the past (and this thing's been moved twice) so what you described about the rear board is a possibility.

07xb - what kind of impedance reading should I get on the speakers? Or will I need the speaker specs to know that?

All I'm running right now is the PS3 with HDMI video and optical sound. Only running a left/right/center channel with sub (new house has a bad layout for surround, waiting to install wall jacks rather than running wire all over the place or drilling holes in the floor).

Also, when it pops and the sound cuts out, it's generally a very loud pop. Louder than the volume setting for certain. I've gotten used to it, but when it happens when someone is over it's startling, and it will easily wake the dog up even of the volume is already high.
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Nvr2old
Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2010 - 09:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Agree with bad solder joint. I have a 42" Sanyo that was losing picture after a few minutes being on. Resoldered anything suspicious looking in video path, it's been running fine for over a year since.
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Bott
Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2010 - 09:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

have a tx sr303 running EVERYTHING and it's been bulletproof for about 6 years - working 14 hour days . cant help with your problem but totally stand behind Onkyo!
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Xb12mel
Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2010 - 09:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Xl1200r.... I have the same problem you have. Funny thing is, it's with my Panasonic 5 disc Home theater system. (Exactly like the one pictured above in the Pwnzor post)

I actually broke two bones in my foot one night leaping from bed trying to run into the living room in the dark to turn the dang thing off.

Good luck figuring out what it is. I really believe that my problem is the sound processing D/A converter. I have all the same symptoms you do with the added side effect of a full blast- home alarm like screech if left powered on with no input signal. (which is what happened that dreadful night) It doesn't happen often, but when it does, my neighbors know about it!

I figured it was my equipments way of telling me that it's time to get some new hardware. And reminding me to turn "EVERYTHING" off before retiring for the night.

Good luck!
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Pwnzor
Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2010 - 09:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Also, when it pops and the sound cuts out, it's generally a very loud pop.

Are you sure you have a clean power source? By clean, I mean steady, surge-free, 60hz. between 110v and 120v.

When I set up a stereo at my old warehouse, I had problems similar to what you're describing. There were several shops attached to my building that ran large welders and when they kicked in the whole damn grid would brown out, causing my stereo and computers to go haywire.

I solved it by running everything off battery back up units. Not all units are created equal though. You want the load to run off the batteries, isolated from the charging circuit.

Just a thought.

(Message edited by pwnzor on October 13, 2010)
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Xl1200r
Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2010 - 09:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Are you sure you have a clean power source?

I'm running everything through one of these:

http://www.monstercable.com/productdisplay.asp?pin =596
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Pwnzor
Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2010 - 10:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thats a good surge protector, Monster Cable makes a good product.

However, while it will protect you from most surge activity, an AC power filter will "clean" the power, insuring no electrical noise gets through.

This is just one of many options, no guarantee that electrical noise is the source of the problem. Just trying to wrack my brain thinking of what it could be. It's raining outside, this is exactly the kind of thing I like to do on rainy days, fix geeky stuff.
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Xl1200r
Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2010 - 10:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It possible, but I haven't any issue like this with anything else in my house (plus power filters are $$$, lol). I am a bit of an audiophile, but only with music (being a musician) and home theater systems, in my opinion, are lousy for music reproduction, so there's a separate stereo for that. That said, I really only need 'good enough' for my home theater - as long as it's reasonably clear the sub thumps me in the chest I'm a happy camper, lol.
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Pwnzor
Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2010 - 10:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That filter I linked to is only around $60, and you could plug the whole monster cable strip into it. Just saying.

Most residential areas, you won't have that problem anyway. In my case it was an industrial property. Welders and plating rectifiers right next door, sucking down tons of power.
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Court
Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2010 - 12:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There are also, though I confess to knowing not a damn thing about A/V systems, power conditioners that sequence the turn on and turn off.

I use on one my studio equipment so that my powered monitors don't get a "start up pop". Some allow you to set the sequence of how the outlets (I use 10) come on and how long the interval between "turn ons" is.

THIS is one of the less expensive that I like, primarily because it's MADE IN U.S.A.
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Bluzm2
Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2010 - 06:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can't test impedance with a multi meter.
Impedance is a load caused by capacative and inductive reactance.
It's related to frequency, and amplitude. Darn formula's that I barely recall... Xsub = 2 Pi F L is one of them for inductive reactance. Capactive is the inverse if memory serves. Been a VERY long time...
It is a dynamic load cause by an AC wave form, not a DC resistance.
A multimeter will tell you the resistance of a speaker coil, not it's impedance.

My vote is for a cold solder joint in the output section of the amp. That's where the most heat is... and you get the most wide temp swings. This makes components and leads move around a bit..

Brad
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Court
Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2010 - 10:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

>>> Been a VERY long time...

Who cares? . . you impressed, once again, the heck right out of me.

: )


quote:

In Brad We Trust


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