| Author | Message | ||
     Ferrisbuellersdayoff |
yea this thing doesnt look like its gonna do anything. I borrowed a neighbors bolt extractor, he's out of town to show me how the F to use it. says use 1/4" bit. got that, gonna drill the hole here shortly. My question is do i need to hammer the damn thing in to make sure it fits? | ||
| Panhead_dan |
Don't do it!!! If you think you have problems now, wait till the extractor's broken off stub stares back at you laughing. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
What's the situation? is the bolt made of steel? | ||
| Pwnzor |
PRACTICE ON ANOTHER BOLT FIRST IF YOU HAVE NEVER USED AN EXTRACTOR!!!!! Other than that, they work great. A little finesse and a little brute force. | ||
| Sleez |
a little heat doesn't hurt either | ||
| Ferrisbuellersdayoff |
motor mount bolt in the head sheared off. upon further inspection the rear mount has now broken 2 corners off and shear the other two bolts off in the case. I swear to god I'm gonna sell the turd. and i totalled my truck yesterday so now I'm so F'ed its silly | ||
| Panhead_dan |
Sorry to hear about your run of bad luck. As for the broken bolt, hold a nut over the broken bolt and weld it on through the hole in the nut. Don't pour a whole lot of heat in there. It will turn right out. | ||
| Buelltoys |
Use a left handed drill bit. Works well for most smaller bolts. The welded nut is also a good idea. Extractors are easy to use just don't break it. If you use the correct size drill bit they normally work well. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
Forgot about the left hand bit. Good call! Usually while drilling with a LH bit, the bolt will unscrew while drilling it. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Don't forget to use a penetrant like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench to lubricate the threads before actually attacking the bolt. A little heat usually helps as well. | ||
| Ulynut |
If you can, try tapping on the bolt with a punch and hammer. The vibration helps to loosen the bolt. Sometimes you can even unthread it this way if you can catch an edge and tap it in the right direction. If its broken off smooth, you can drill a small hole on one edge of the bolt, get the tip of the punch in there, and tap in the right direction to turn the bolt right out of there. (don't know if that made any sense) | ||
| Ducbsa |
I broke off an extractor and had to have it EDM'd out. This was 30 years ago and only cost $25 and I was lucky to find a shop open in the evening. They custom ground an electrode to match the root diameter of the broken bolt. It was neat to watch, almost worth the $ and hassle. | ||
| Jramsey |
The OP stated its a ISO head mount bolt, no amount of panther piss or tapping/rapping is going to help because they are installed with red Loctite from the factory. Might get lucky with a l/h drill bit but I doubt it. Welding a nut or piece of scrap to the offending bolt is the preferred method because the heat will soften the thread locker. | ||
| 5liter |
Mine came right out. After 48,000 mile I think the red loctite on mine was cooked off pretty well. | ||
| Spiderman |
If you ever have to use a bolt extractor. ALWAYY drill completely through the bolt. This way if it snaps you can use a punch to push it all the way through the bold. | ||
| Oldog |
FBDO I tried the drill out be careful, sadly the head had to go to cycle rama for repair the mount beat against it if the clamp surfaces are not flat and parallell ( mine werent ) then the repair will not hold I second Jramseys assertion salves a hammers wont work... | ||
| Ajgerdes |
don't use the extractor, i did this and broke it off in the bolt. Had to take the head off and take it to the machine shop to get it out. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
What Jramsey said... Been there, done that.. | ||
| Sifo |
The OP stated its a ISO head mount bolt, no amount of panther piss or tapping/rapping is going to help because they are installed with red Loctite from the factory. So what about the bolt that goes through ISO mount into the frame? Is that installed with red Loctite too? Any tips for avoiding calamity when removing this one? The reason I ask is that is I will be doing this job when my new mount arrives this Thursday. I would love to avoid asking advise on how to get that broken bolt out of my frame.  | ||
| Stirz007 |
http://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Screw-Extractor | ||
| Jramsey |
http://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Screw-Extractor Go for it!!if you dare. My Bridgeport and carbide end mill cutters have removed more broken off "screw extractors" than I care to count. | ||
| Oldog |
So what about the bolt that goes through ISO mount into the frame? Is that installed with red Loctite too? Any tips for avoiding calamity when removing this one? the hanger bolt should have a self locking nut, d washer and washers, support the motor with a jack and a pad where the engine rests on the jack, the washers may want to be oiled, the bolt IIRC does not require lock-tite I use it any way, YMMV on the mount to head connections ( if you are changing them,) clean - steral(sp) oil the washers and red loctite, follow the written procedure, btw make SURE that the clamping surfaces are clean and FLAT and aligned if not you will be extracting the bolts and re-doing the job.} | ||
| Sifo |
UPS dropped my parts off today! It was a piece of cake. All the bolts involved were nice and clean, as in no sign of any sort of thread locker. I put them back in without thread locker. They haven't been a problem so far. |
