| Author | Message | ||
     Peter |
Oz666, You will need to buy an O2 sensor and weld a threaded lug onto your exhaust system to fit it into, along with the gauge. DDFI bikes already have an O2 sensor fitted. It is a useful tool for tuning your fuel mixture. I bought mine from Autometer (click on "Product Search" and go from there), but there are lots of companies making them. PPiA | ||
| Buellit |
Where would you mount it though? | ||
| Buellit |
The gauge...not the O2 Sensor | ||
| Sarodude |
You can go here here to find schematics if ya feel like building one... -Saro | ||
| Oz666 |
Thanks Gentlemen, Buellit: thats why God made Duct Tape! SaroDude: now looking for IC to do auto-bias compansation (SOMEBODY has to make one) (wondering if I can get `98 racekit pipes with `99 can, hmmmmmm... ) Oz | ||
| Swede |
Buellit, in my opinion the standard petcock is way too narrow. I've got myself a Pingel one, haven't fitted it yet as I have to make an adapter plate for it first. I suppose you can buy em over there, but you can't in sweden. Pingel - more gas will pass! | ||
| Loki |
Peter, How is the A/F working for you? I kinda really like it on the beast. Makes a big difference when you can see what is going on with the carbueration. loki | ||
| Peter |
Loki, It seems to work well, although now I can see how inaccurate the fuel feed is on my bike with a CV at low revs. With a Mikuni or the AFT carb I tried, it was much more stable. I found it interesting when I had the AFT on one night, to see it vary as I went through the tunnel near the airport, where the planes taxi across the highway. The warmer air in that area would change the readings quite a bit. PPiA | ||
| Loki |
P, I know what you are seeing very well. Hit a pocket of cooler/warmer air and it registers it. I wired a relay to my tail light when I installed the A/F. So unless the key is on, the relay is unpowered. Thus no power for the A/F guage. Has worked out very well so far. The same relay controls power for my aux lighting relay. Just a "I forgot about my extra lights" or " some idiot was playing with my bike again" syndrome Loki | ||
| Jerome |
Yep. And the A/F gauge even records misfires... I went for a nice ride this afternoon, and at the top of a path, my M2 started to misfire slightly at 1/8 throttle and it would be even worse with more throttle. At each misfire, the A/F reading was going way lean for a fraction of a second ! I thought that an impurity was trying to make its way through the idle jet ; but after a few km I had a huge misfire and the M2 started to run on one cylinder... The A/F gauge was showing full rich at the same time, so I knew immediately that the rear cylinder (where the O2 sensor is fitted) was the problem. By the way, I found out quickly what was going on : the small nut on the top of the rear spark plug was simply unscrewed and there was no more high voltage supply... | ||
| Scottm |
I'm looking for some info please. I have a 2001 M2 with a Supertrapp exhaust running 15 disk, a 185 main, 45 pilot, 2 turns out on the idle mix screw and recently switched back to the NOKK needle, no shims. The bike runs great no pings, pops or backfires but the spark plugs are black and sooty (seem to be a little less sooty since I changed back to the NOKK needle from the N65C). Is this normal with the new HD 10R12 plugs? I have the stock air box which has been gutted, venturi ring intalled along with K&N filter, I am however still venting the breathers into the box. Someone wrote that I should reroute them. Could that be the cause of the black soot on plugs or are the plugs just too cool? I can't see how I could be running to rich with this set up. Any insight would be appreciated. ScottM | ||
| Jerome |
ScottM : with the same setup as yours except a Force air cleaner instead of the stock air box, I was running a 175 main. According to my A/F gauge, the N65C needle gave slightly better mixtures than the stock NOKK needle. You may give a try to that one, and try to decrease your main jet progressively, from 185 to 180 and then 175. Testing the latter will require you to make the correct plug reading, i.e. to go at WOT on a highway for several miles and then to kill the switch and to stop the bike with the engine dead. Then plug reading will tell you how is your main jet. The stock CV carb is pretty hard to tune, due to the slide position depending on several other factors than just throttle position. It's definitely an easier job with the Mikuni HSR42. Plus the Mikuni gives you this shot-gun effect when you twist the throttle... Very pleasant ! | ||
| Jmartz |
Jerome: The other day there was an event at our local dealer. They had both the CV44 and Mikuni 42 on a table. To my surprise I discovered that the Mikuni although 42 mm at the throat actually had a 40 mm spigot and mounts directly to the stock manifold. The CV44 has a 44 mm spigot an requires a bigger manifold. You are correct it is a bear to tune but it is smaller and fits w/o any mods whatsoever. I finally settled on an N65C needle lifted .035, a 195 jet and a 45 slow. Response to throttle opening is good especially when you open the the vacuum hole and use a weaker spring. Midrange torque is incresed and the larger manifold flows better giving a better top end. Fuel consumption is slightly higher with about 140 miles to reserve when freeway riding at 80 mph. Starting has degraded considerably, a necessary price of the slow initial velocity of the air passing through a larger hole aggravated by Harley's ultrastupid dual fire ignition. Got to try the Edelbrock quicksilver someday... jose | ||
| Buellit |
Well, I have not posted in a while so here is an update. I received my new Pingel Guzzler last Friday, I put it in and it leaked a little......but the scoot pulled all the way up to 7K...wooowho....(I changed my fuel line size to 3/8).My jetting was perfect(.42 pilot, .195 main, and the yost needle second clip from the bottom) I fixed the leak late last night by just wrapping the fuel valve's threads with more teflon tape. The only thing it was lacking was throttle response, which was corrected by programming a slightly more aggressive advance on my V-Thunder Ignition(FYI rev limit for 7500,number 6 on dial A, and number 8 curve on dial B). As I stated a while back my RPMs were dropping to 0 then shooting right back up when I pulled in the clutch, along with some mean backfires. I think I have found the problem, and know what I have to do to correct it.....but I do not know how to correct it. I am thinking it to be my kickstand switch(the one that prevents you from riding away with it down). Thinking it is stuck open how do I disconnect it? | ||
| Lake_Bueller |
Okay, I'm finally getting around to installing the Thunderslide kit on my '98 S3. I'm not a "master mechanic" so this could get interesting. Am I missing something or is the best (or only) method for removing the carb to unbolt from the intake manifolds. If that is the only method, whats the best way to reach the bolts behind the carb. Mennis | ||
| Peter |
Lake Bueller There are no bolts behind the carb. There is a rubber sleeve that the carb pushes into, that seals the carb to the manifold. PPiA | ||
| Buellit |
Hey Lake- The easiest way to remove the carb is first remove airbox( if it is the Heimholtz then pay attention to how the breather hoses are routed through it...they tend to be a pain), Loosen the nut that holds your choke cable to its bracket, Loosen both throttle cables(10 mm wrench and turn the adjusters toward the grip, Remove the breather bolts that are through the carb bracket then gentlely pull straight out.....til the carb is off. You will then have to disconnect your VOES and remove your throttle cables. It may sound like a lot but it is really easy. FYI Take care not to pinch the diaphram when installing your slide, and I would use a pair of small vise grip pliers to first break loose the float bowl screws, this will keep them from getting stripped out. I hope this helped | ||
| Bertsdirt |
Hey yall, I got a new 2001 X1 about a month ago. It was running fine till about a week ago. When it is cold, it seams to be misfiring. After a couple miles down the road, it gets better. I give it a few minutes to warm up before I hop on and take it easy for the first 5-10 miles. I live in Dallas, so it's not like the bike is ice cold to begin with. I haven't done any mods yet. My plan is to replace exhaust (Supertrapp), air (just K&N or maybe force, haven't decided) and race ECM all at once since I'm not sure the stock ECM would like me doing a little at a time. I've been reading a bunch of the archive stuff and I am leaning on the idea that the O2 sensor is just not happy till the exhaust gases warm it up. Does that sound about right, or??? Thanks for the insight, opinions, experience. | ||
| Ccryder |
Kevin: When I experienced the misfiring like you described I found that the terminals on my spark plug had loosened. Seems like it takes more good spark when it's cold than when warmed up. The modifications you describe will make a WORLD of difference in your X-1. For the price of the Race ECM, K&N, and Supertrap or White Brothers you can't go wrong. Unless you just can't stand the stock airbox on the X-1, the force or anyother aircleaner will really not make an apprecianble difference. Try it you'll love your Buell more than you do now. (don't tell your better half because they tend to get jealous when they see that grin and sprarkle in your eyes) Ride more, lean more, Grin More Neil S. p.s. Take a look here: My Web Site or here X1 Files for some more Buell info. | ||
| Bertsdirt |
Hey Neil, You called it, and I am a candidate for a Darwin Award. About a week ago, I pulled the plugs to see how they were burning, (just fine btw) and I musta jarred the plug wire for the front cylinder a little from the coil. With your pointer, I was making sure the wires were plugged in nice and tight and I felt a click when I shoved up on the front cylinder plug wire to the coil. Took it for a quick test spin, with almost no warmup and the bike ran great. I know better, but I guess sometimes it's the little things we overlook when we think it's something bigger. I've been all over this site's forums and just started poking around the X1 files. There sure is a bunch of good info to take in there. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Kevin | ||
| Hauck |
Alright, Now some of you have thrown doubts into my carefully planned future. I was planning on buying a 2002 white lightning with the blue headers. After reading through the archives, I see that it is a common belief that aftermarket headers will produce a day/night difference in the performance. So.. now what??? Buy a White Lightning(and settle with the stock), buy a white lightning(and go through the headache and $ of finding someone who will powder coat aftermarket), or buy a regular X1(which can be dressed up very nicely)????? Ahhhhhh | ||
| Sarodude |
Because I'm a jerk, I like data. The data may never be used, but I like to see it and at least pretend I can make use of it. That said, has anyone figured out a way to indicate the slide position on a CV carb? Whether it's while riding or while it's on the dyno, I think we can understand the behaviors of the 40/44 mm CV carbs better with this simple piece of info... Obviously, this is only for people who are interested in having a bike that runs well in street trim... -Saro | ||
| Blake |
You could remove your carb, hook it up to a vaccuum gauge and measure the slide travel versus vaccuum. Then you could reinstall the carb with a vaccuum gauge tap and vaccuum gauge. Note the vaccuum as desired, then simply cross reference to your slide travel versus vaccuum measurements. If you are sharp with a microprosessor and data aquisition you could create your own slide travel gauge much in the same way. Actually a collection of callibrated vaccuum switches and an LED arrangement would give you a nice analog gauge. Let us know if you find anything interesting. Blake | ||
| Sarodude |
And the guy doesn't even have the DECENCY to post schematics... ;) Actually, that is a great idea. I'll build it as soon as I complete my home grown DAQ system for the kart (which will be completed after the cracked frame gets welded), the FI system I was planning for the VW, the - oh, never mind... I forgot a couple of things: 1) I'm a software guy 2) I'm the world's worst procrastinator 3) I forgot what 3 was going to be... 4) The fact that the list made it to 3 means that I don't even understand the concept of a couple. It could be simplified by replacing the face on a vacuum guage with a "Guage Opening" face. No electronics - but a change in the volume of the carb's vacuum chamber. I imagine that only notable change - if any - would be in slide response. Thanks - I think... -Saro | ||
| Blake |
LOL. Your welcome - maybe... Blake | ||
| Rocketman |
And the guy doesn't even have the DECENCY to post schematics... ;) That'll be a first then  Rocket in England LMAO | ||
| Buellistic |
Buellers FYI: 1997 S3T FIRST DYNORUN  completley STOCK)HP68.6 TQ62.7 UPDATES: EAGLE springs&collars,EAGLE module,K&N filter element BU1297,carb ring.............. SECOND DYNORUN:HP74.6 TQ68.2 CORRECTIONS:removed carb ring and put back on SNORKEL with the same filter element as the FORCE set-up on the end of the SNORKEL(air box cover goes on over this) THIRD DYNORUN:HP76.7 TQ74.8 In buelling BUELLISTIC and/or Hardley-Harley | ||
| Grndskpr |
This question may have been posted before, but i can not seem to find it so hear goes, i recently purchased a 98 s3t, the jet was upgraded to a 45, but as far as i can tell, nothing else was done to the carb, it has a k$n filter i the stock box, and is the thunderbolt engine,on the dynp produced 83 rear wheel hp, the problem is a backfire/sputter at 2600 rpm to 28/2900 rpm, i have removed the carb, cleaned, checked everything but the needle and seat, they looked fine but didnt take them apart, this event happens cold or hot, so i am now at a lose as to what i should be looking for next, the bike is rock solid otherwise no leaks or odd rattles so a little help may go a long way One other thing this is my first harley based bike, all kaws before this one so i am still learning the way of this engine, also its still ridable(500 miles in 2 weeks in Illinois so its not stoping me just looking to clean it up a little) thanks in advance Roger | ||
| Blake |
Maybe poorly sealed exhaust header at cyl(s)? Be very careful, header to cyl head studs are easily overtorqued. Might be best to remove and replace along with new donut seals. Double nut upon reinstall is a good idea. Good luck. Let us know what you find. | ||
| Grndskpr |
There is one thing i would like to try, replace intake gaskets,but i need to know if there is a safe lub to use, one that makes it a little easier to replace the carb but dosnt destroy the ruber gaskets any ideas or preferences please ROger |
