| Author | Message | ||
     Road_thing |
Uh, Bomber, does all this talk of machining inspire you to go make something? Like, say, maybe, a frame brace?  rt (just raggin' on ya, man...) (Message edited by road_thing on September 13, 2004) | ||
| Loki |
Yes it is a sandwich fit with an extra 3/4" spacer between the bar mount and the new plate. The existing dash just sits over the add on. The line you see is just a reference line for checking clearances. The extra amount of unused area is set-up for a switch and a future power tap. Also a possible radar detector function for my Passport 8500 The secondary is just a section of 7075 3/16" plate. I wish I had grabbed more of it before it was trashed. No milling here. Jst the handy jig saw and elbow grease with files. With a little assist from a hole saw. The guages are from www.iequus.com and are the 1.5" minis. Mechanical oil pressure and water temp(or in this senario oil temp). Yes they do look like the Phantom series. probably why I snatched them off the shelf the other week. As for the sensor I found a spot on the bag where I had space. I will post a pic later. essentially it is just above the oil feed line along side the battery. plumbing it into the bag? I drilled a slightly smaller than required hole for the adapter fitting. I o-ringed it and let the adapter thread into the bag. Not the final solution but...plans are to attach a alum. plate that is threaded for it to the bag permamently. just a work in progress. | ||
| Bomber |
Thang -- rag away, brother! it's half done (surprise surprise im my best gomer pyle voice) Loki -- what's the purpose of the 3/4 spacer btween the clamp and dash plate, if I may inquire? | ||
| Davefl |
My guess would be to clear the handle bar. | ||
| Loki |
Dave hit it on the nose. Needed a little extra room with everything down low. | ||
| Bomber |
thanks, Loki -- Good call, Dave -- | ||
| Loki |
temp sensor plug in   sorry about the pic quality on these two. | ||
| Bomber |
cool beans . . . .. .splain how you're keeping the little dear oil tight, please? also, if it's above the oil feed line, as per your post yesterday, won't it be above the oil level, and, therefore, not reading oil temp, but rather, air temp? I've got mine plumbed into the return line itself, which is not good for accurate readings, so I'm looking at alternatives | ||
| Loki |
It is o-ringed and the fitting is threaded into the bag. The access hole is slightly undersized so it is nice and tight. I am still thinking of attaching a threaded alum plate to the bag in this location. For added strength and more threads. This location should keep it covered. Normal oil level is about 2 inches above the fitting. This location is made possible by the S1 battery sitting on end. | ||
| Bomber |
Loki -- thanks for your patience, as always . . . . I look forward to a report, as I avoided popping a hole in the oil bag, thinking there was no way I was going to be able to create an oil tight seal . . . . . . . your's looks/sounds like a winner, though! | ||
| Bbd |
can the 12v 12amp hr xb battery be used on a tuber with out any problems,they are cheaper and over 3lbs lighter.or would i need the xb 540 watt alternater?or other mods,or is it just not h,d enough? | ||
| Reepicheep |
I would think it would work fine, just have less capacity in reserve. The charging system regulation will work with any size battery of the correct chemistry and number of cells (basically any 12v automotive type setup). | ||
| Rick_a |
I want to set up a momentary ignition kill switch to use as a quickshifter. I can't find a normally closed switch and was told I could use a normally open switch by shorting the signal side of the coil. I see how this would work but have reservations on using it. What do ya think? | ||
| Rick_a |
I've got that battery in my S1. No problem. | ||
| Loki |
after action-first report no runs, no drips, still some minor parts to install. Including a proper air filter. Volts - ops check good, have it set up to be on when the key is turned. Oil Pressure - ops check good, after bleeding the line Water Temp - read that as oil temp in the bag, ops check good. Punching the extra hole for mounting the sender, no leaks. It is threaded, o-ringed and "Maxi-Cure" glued in for sealing. Engine itself is leak free. Re-packed the old style Supertrapp, sounds much better. Note to self: reconnect the oil pressure switch! | ||
| Sportyeric |
How does Ohm's Law apply to bad grounds? I have burned out three front brake-light switches this year on my S2. The dealership has been extraordinarily generous with no-cost repairs but the problem continues. I'm told that grounding is the likely cause and I have all winter now to correct it. I might add in a relay to reduce current flow through the switch. I accept the diagnosis but I'm curious about the theory behind it. If there is a bad connection to ground, that should increase the resistance in the circuit (in series with the light bulb as the main resistance). Since voltage remains constant, amperage should decrease, not increase. This same issue cropped up with the Sportster, blowing out headlight bulbs due to poor grounding through the steering head. A separate ground wire cured the problem but I don't see why! | ||
| Hootowl |
Do rapid on-off cycles shorten filament life? Maybe you're getting some voltage spikes? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Like Hoot says, if there is an inductive load on the line (like your coil) and you get a flakey ground, you could indeed get some huge voltage spikes. Real world example? Go to your house and an AC outlet and turn on a mostly non inductive load (like a lamp) and yank the plug out of the wall while its turned on. See anything? Nope, nothing. Now go plug in some really inductive load, like a vacuum sweeper, turn it on, and yank the plug from the wall while it's running. See that inch long blue spark? Hear the pop of your motherboard on your computer blowing up? Thats because it is an inductive load. It takes a LOT of voltage to arc a 1" airgap. The physics are really interesting. A professor explained an easy way to remember it... Capacitors (like batteries) "want" to maintain constant voltage. Slap a spike on them, and they will absorb extra current to try and keep the voltage from going up. Slap a short across them, and they will dump a ton of current to try and keep the voltage up. Inductors (coils of wire) "want" to maintain constant current. Put a steady amp through one, and try and cut the wire, and the voltage through the wire will go very high and create a nice big spark to jump the air gap and try and keep the same current flowing. Thats how they are able to make 120 volt ac inverters run off of a 12 volt car battery. Its called a switching regulator, they feed a current through a wire, use a mosfet transistor to basically try and "cut" the wire, and they then siphon off the resulting voltage spike (and smooth it out with a capacitor on the other side). The electronics can get tricky but they are incredibly effecient regulators. But I digress | ||
| Bomber |
Reep -- don't you DARE stop digressing! | ||
| Hootowl |
Good call Bill. I had not taken the coils into account. Ohms law applies. E=IR With I being constant (For the RL time at least) E gets REALLY BIG when R is represented by an air gap. | ||
| 2k4xb12 |
It takes a LOT of voltage to arc a 1" airgap. Yep -- the breakdown voltage of air is along the order of 20,000 v/inch. However, I don't recall ever seeing a 1" arc when unplugging an inductive device -- more like 1/4 to 1/2". Also, since you're drawing an arc from a closed contact while it is widening, it won't take as much energy to start it, and once it's going, it will sustain a much wider gap than what it would take to initially create the arc. In other words, just because one might see a 1" arc doesn't mean there's 20,000 volts there. It just means that if you start with a large gap and a 20,000 volt potential, and slowly reduce the gap, there will be no arc until the gap is 1". Sorry for complicating things... | ||
| Sportyeric |
So to winnow the relevant bits out of that...Man! You guys disgress! Either: there isn't an inductive load in the circuit (for the brake light) but a momentary loss of ground will result in the current remaining constant and, with Voltage =Amperage times Resistance, as the resistance increases, so does the voltage. And at the switch, power= Voltage times Amperage. Or: the coil reacts to a bad ground by generating an inductive current? | ||
| Reepicheep |
I think what we were saying (hard to tell myself sometimes) is that yes, in fact, there is an engineering basis for the theory that bad grounds can lead to chronically blowing bulbs. | ||
| Tims |
Just wanted to mention that the headlight len 63-12-1-358-147s is just that, the glass with no reflector or a bulb mount. After breaking the glass on my 97 Buell, I ordered one of these BMW parts thinking it was an assembly. I mean,in all my years I have never heard of just the front glass being serviceable let alone available. My Buell's front glass will not separate from its reflector base. Is there a Buell headlight assembly that does?? | ||
| Kinger  |
Does anyone know of a suitable replacement clock for the S3T dash? The face of mine is pealing off and I am looking to go to a digital readout if possible, maybe with a few other functions. Would like it to fit (approximately) in the existing opening. Thanks for any input.  | ||
| Teenc |
I never realized that my X1 headlight had a marker bulb in it until I took it apart today. It takes a T4W bulb. Mine was burned out so I guess I never noticed it before. I can't wait to put a new one in and see what it looks like. Anyone know how common a T4W bulb is? I am in the process of installing a Sylvania Silver Star headlamp instead of the stock one. I'll let you know if I can notice any difference. The Sylvania package said "for motorcycle use only". Anyone know why? | ||
| Rick_a  |
I almost got stranded in the rain the other day. That day I was thinking about how long my cheapo unprotected auto parts toggle switch (used as a kill switch) was going to last with getting wet so often. I had to ride through heavy rain later and found out. My ignition kept grounding out through the switch and killed the bike no less than 3 times. I made it home, WD-40'd the crap out of it, and bought a rubber boot to cover it. Lesson learned! | ||
| Country  |
Ok so now I have an electrical problem that the good 'ol boys at the dealership can't figure out. The bike is a '02 M2L Cyclone: here's my scenario: I was out riding with friends, when I noticed my tach was acting erratic (i.e., bouncing around like I was revving the hell out of it, even went passed redline). Then my speedo went on and off a few times. Nothing else seemed unusual so when I stopped at a gas station, I shut 'er down. I bitched and moaned for a few minutes while others were getting gas. We were all ready to roll, turned the key, lights came on, and hit the ignition and bike went dead. Everyone thinking that it was just a dead battery, helped to bump start it. We tightened a loose wire that seemed to be going to ground. It seemed fine so we were off again. Over the next 30 miles (we were in the GA mountains and not anywhere near our camp) the tach and speedo kept having problems, but now the damn thing was backfiring every so often. Got to a gas station, turned it off so I could gas up. She started just fine this time. So we thought we had the problem licked. Off we are again. This time, up over the CherHoller Skyway. About a 60 mile road up to 6200 feet in elevation and back down. The whole time up the mountain I was fighting the bike, but the others I rode with were gone, the bike was still running but barely so I soldiered on. The bike was backfiring like mad and the tach and speedo were still going crazy. I wanted to stop and just trailer it home but I didn't know where the road ended or how far away my friends were. Made it up and down the mountain, met up with the friends (they were waiting for some 30-45 minutes at that point). Stopped the bike and once again it started right up. Off we go again to make it back to camp. About 20 miles or so the bike is really acting up and finally just dies. I get one the fellow riders to come back and help me, to see if we can get it bump started just to make it back. Got it started again, but this time it sounded like it was running on one cylinder. And every time you gave it even just a little bit of throttle it sounded like it wanted to die. So I rode passenger for 70 miles back to camp. Went to pick up the bike later that night, got 'er loaded up and head back. Stopped at a gas station, busted out the volt meter. Checked the battery, read 12V. Turned the key, lights and all came on, hit the ignition, and lost the lights. Checked the battery again, read 5V. Short across the battery right??? Or so we thought. I took it to the dealer. They charged the battery, put it back and are now having a hell of a time with the electrical. Anyone have any ideas?? I already told them to check the voltage regulator, then the alternator, then the stator. And also to check and see if the rear motor mounts might have pinched the wire harness (heard about that one from an unreliable source, so don't hate on me too much). Really desperate. I want my bike back, but fixed. It’s still under an extended warranty if that helps anyone. | ||
| Bomber  |
I'm bettin there's a intermittant short/ground somewwheres -- I'd start at the clocks, given the speedo St Vitus dance -- these problems can be tough to find | ||
| Country |
yeah, the service tech has no clue. I asked if he even looked at the service manual. Was told that it didn't help him at all. I'll tell them to start there and then work the bike over. |
