|Posted on Friday, March 20, 2020 - 07:54 pm: ||
Just recently purchased my uncles 2007 xb12x after he passed away and I rode it maybe 10 times while he was storing it at the house and it seemed to ride fine. The bike only has 3,430 miles on it right now and had 2,401 miles when he registered it in 2017 so it hasnít been ridden much. While it was here we had it on a trickle charger and put some gas in it probably a year and a half ago just to start it and let it run or ride it every once in a while and it ran fine. About 3 weeks ago the low fuel light came on so I went a filled it up with 87 octane (which after looking online it seems the owners manual says to use 91) and rode it 3 times for probably 10-15min each and when I was coming home the last time it seemed to cut power while I was cruising with the throttle in the same place but I was close to home so I just got home and parked it. The next day I was going to take it for a short ride to warm it up so I could change the oil and after I started it it idled for maybe 10 seconds the cut off so I tried starting it again and it just kept doing the same thing. You can start it and give it gas and it will hold the rpms for maybe 5-10 seconds then start losing power and eventually die. Any idea what is going on? I added some liquid performance ethanol equalizer to the tank and had no luck with that.
|Posted on Friday, March 20, 2020 - 11:18 pm: ||
First of all drain out the 87 gasoline and fill it with 91 gasoline. To do this work you need tools. Find service manual online and follow instructions how to drain the fuel. Use Google search about how to drain fuel out of Buell XB. Hope 87 gasoline had not damaged the engine.
(Message edited by TPEHAK on March 20, 2020)
|Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2020 - 02:35 pm: ||
I just drained out all the 87 and put a gallon of 93 in the tank and itís still doing the same thing. Any other ideas?
|Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2020 - 02:52 pm: ||
If it starts with no issues, works normally on both cylinders and then stalls in 10 seconds it looks like fuel delivery issue. Which means there is something bad in the fuel pump assembly, or clogged injectors maybe, or there is contamination in fuel line, or in fuel rail, or in fuel pump.
Less likely bad crank position sensor may send signal at wrong moment also so it injects fuel in wrong moment. Or bad wiring in engine management system, it makes contact and then lost contact within 10 seconds due to vibration. Or bad ECM.
There is a lot of things can cause such behavior. But since you used wrong fuel and it sat for long time and has low mileage, starts good, works on both cylinders stalls in 10 seconds, does not show check engine light while works I would consider this is most likely fuel delivery issue.
Do one simple thing though first, clean and tighten all ground spots on the motorcycle, clean and tighten the battery terminals and see if it fixed the issue.
(Message edited by TPEHAK on March 21, 2020)
|Posted on Tuesday, March 24, 2020 - 06:43 am: ||
Canesfan727: did you resolve your problem? If so what was the cause? I have the same issue.
|Posted on Saturday, March 28, 2020 - 10:30 am: ||
What I would do if my bike were doing this.
Since no check engine light/trouble codes, I would confirm a good battery, including a load test. After making sure the battery connections and grounds were tight and free of corrosion, as mentioned above, I would remove and install each fuse and relay 4-5 times. That should remove any corrosion, if present. Prior to last installation, coat each fuse/relay prong with a light coat of dielectric compound. Bulb grease to old time mechanics. I would then start the engine again.
If the problem persists, remove the airbox cover and air filter, so I had access to the throttle body throat. Using a spray bottle of choice, like a childs water gun or kitchen spray bottle, I would try again, and try to keep the engine running by spritzing fuel into to throttle body. If I could keep the engine running that way for 30 sec or so, I would be somewhat confident that the problem was not electrical.
Then off to the auto parts store of choice. They often 'loan' special tools for free. If a special tool costs $50, they 'sell' it to you, then return the $50 when you bring it back. I would get a fuel pressure test kit. Once home, I would take the bottom of the airbox off, and install the test kit as close to the fuel rail as possible.
Turn the ignition and stop/run switch on, but do not start the engine. See if the pump will supply 50PSI, plus or minus 1-2 PSI IIRC, and hold it for at least a full minute.
If so, start the engine and see if the pump can maintain pressure. I suspect, given the symptoms, that it will not, confirming a fuel pump issue.
If it will not, the pump will have to be removed, and particular attention will have to be paid to wiring, the fuel filter, and the pressure relief valve.
Hope this helps, Dave