| Author | Message | ||
     Slodog |
I am in the middle of adding the front heim joint and the frame piece to the left side of my 96 S1. if there happens to be anyone out there who has done this, knows anything about this, or any info would be great. | ||
| Bookyoh |
I added the front heim to my '00 M2. I don't know if I really did it correctly or not. I looked for advice from badweatherbikers and Buell riders on the XL-list but didn't get any technical advice on preloading or setting the length of the joint. On my bike, the frame piece was already on so I bought the joint and nuts, bolts, and washers and adjusted the length and spacing so there was no preload in any direction. Mark | ||
| Jmartz |
Slodog: I've heard that welding to chrome/moly steel requires baking the part to relieve stress. Several tabs I have welded to frames made of this material over the years have fallen sooner than later. Jose | ||
| Slodog |
BOOKYOH: Do you know if there is a preload or could you just not find one? Is the preload, the middle joint in the heim fitting? i would think you would just adjust it to fit, but it's probably not that easy. JMARTZ: Have you heard if it has to be baked right before it is welded on or anytime before? Do you know what degree or how long it should be baked? Also, I am the one that bought the pro series bars off of you, and with the new recall my dealership says they won't recall them because they were not bought new and they have been modified, but I don't understand why this would have an affect on a recall if it is a safety issue. They said I'd have to buy the new one's. I better stop cause i'm probly in the wrong section to be talking about handlebars, let me know if you have any thoughts or what section I should be in. | ||
| Jmartz |
Slodg: All I know is that when welding chromemoly steel the local weld area becomes "stressed" or in other words, pulled tight. Applying heat to a larger area relieves the stress and allows the weld to not break. Investigate this matter with an expert in the field. You could try calling a frame builder or a professional welder or machinist. Have heard once about the pro series bars braking but also others refuting it and saying theirs are Ok. Maybe its time to call Buell, warranty recalls are not 1st owner specific. I'm on my 3rd pro series race can and there is a recall that no one seems know when, if ever, buell will honor. Jose | ||
| Ralph |
When you weld a steel like 4140 (chrome moly) you will see a localized hardening at the site of the weld. Basically what is happening is the weld is bringing the material up to critical tempreture and the surrounding area is quenching it. That will leave the area outside the weld hard as rocks and just as brittle. First do the weld. Then clean the area up for a good way around it. Heat the welded area up with a hand torch until it reaches a very light blue color. You'll need to heat slowly. First it'll go through yellow then purple, then peacock blue to the light greyish blue your looking for. It sounds medieval, but the color you are seeing is the oxidization of the surface of the steel and is actually a very accurate gauge of temperature. What we are talking about here is 500-550 f. Preheating the welding area won't be necessary because you are welding small, like sized peices together. bighairyralph | ||
| Peter |
Ralph, Does brazing have the same problem, or is the metal around it getting warm enough? PPiA | ||
| Ralph |
Peter, that's a damn fine question. I don't know. I don't think so, as long as you stay under the critical temperature (should be 1450f) you should be okay. But don't believe me. bighairyralph | ||
| Bookyoh |
Slodog: I could have preloaded the joint by changing the length of it. I imagine that when Buell assembles the bike, they must adjust the length of each joint to achieve alignment of the engine to the frame. Since the engine is already in place with the 3 joints that come with the M2, I thought it just made sense to simply adjust the length of the fourth to center it between the mounting hole on the frame and on the engine mount. If anyone knows any better, please let me know. Thanks | ||
| Ducboy |
help... i wish to remove that front head-steady that has a bracket for the original air-box on an m-2. i plan to cut off the air box mount and polish the bracket and re-install. now i wonder if the engine will move when i unbolt the bracket. does anyone know if there are any particular problems associated with this deal? what has to come off to get that bracket out? thanks for any advice. | ||
| Jmartz |
Duc: Jack the bike up with a swingarm stand. Put a block of wood (2x4) about 6 inches long on to the sump and jack it up just barely. You can now remove the front motor mount. I have reused the bolts succesfully several times. Be careful not to jack up the motor by the shock mount it is off centered and the bike will fall. Jose | ||
| Slodog |
Ducboy, if you would like i've got that bracket without the airbox piece on it from my 96 S1. Also... If anyone has a tip for me on finding the kickstand that mounts to the primary case. the one that is on the early S1 posters, that would be great.Thanks!!! jason | ||
| Ducboy |
thanks for the offer, i've already cut it off, shaped, sanded and polished, it looks pretty good. when you sand those casting marks off (belt sander)it starts to look trick. good luck with your kick stand idea | ||
| Brentx1 |
Does anyone know where I can get a stem for the triple trees? I don't need the whole assembly. Just the stem. | ||
| Brentx1 |
Never mind. I ended up buying the lower tree anyway. | ||
| S2no1 |
Hi, This is for a S2 Need to pull the primary cover due to a leak. This requires removing the isolator mount (the big alumininum plate that holds the kickstand) Can one person do this by themselves? Is there any special support required to hold the motor and swingarm if I pull just one side. The instruction in the service manual are very obscure. Arvel | ||
| Chuck |
Hey Arvel, my bike is different, so I'm not sure...but if you took your seat and tail section off, could you support your bike from above, with a couple of tie-downs? | ||
| S2no1 |
Chuck, Dr. Gadget, who owns 4 S2's got back to me on the Thunder Forum. Seems you need to support the Engine from below with a bottle jack. Arvel | ||
| Loqtus |
Looking at my 96 S1 the other day after I put on Titanium (Yamaha FZ1 accessory) drag handlebars, I seem to have a miss-machined top triple clamp. The mounts for the handlebars are misaligned so that the handlebar is cocked about 5 degrees from straight ahead. The holes for the mounts are in the wrong place. Has anyone else noticed this problem? Do you think Buell would replace them? Thanks | ||
| Court |
Loqtus: Can you post/e-mail a pic? Court | ||
| Locutus |
here's a couple shots of my mis-drilled (I think)triple clamp   | ||
| Locutus |
Court: What do you think? and thanks.. | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Locutus, That doesn't look anything like my 98S1W or 99S3. The handlebar bosses are integrally cast into the tops of the triple clamp on both of my bikes. Was there a change from the 96 S1 triple clamps to the 98? Yours looks like a drilled lower triple clamp, but I don't know if there were running changes on that. What is that electronic gauge? and what is the other one on the master cylinder? Looks cool. Al | ||
| Locutus |
That's a Trailtech speedo/odometer and a Daytona digital tach on the master cylinder.  (Message edited by blake on January 22, 2005) | ||
| Court |
Mike: Based on my experience, I can sum this up in one word. OOPS. E-mail me your name, address, VIN, servicing dealer info @ CLCanfield@aol.com. By the way...have you started looking at things crooked? Court | ||
| Tripper |
Steering Head Bearings - Replace with Stock parts, or is there a better quality aftermarket part to be had? Must have been that trip to Missouri, or too many wheelies. | ||
| Ralph |
Stock are fine but you should be able to find replacements cheaper at a local bearing supplier. bighairyralph | ||
| Tonyinvabeach |
Is there an alternate method of adjusting the steering neck bearings without pulling the front wheel off the ground and pulling on it with a scale? Are all of you guys doing this or is there a simpler answer. Thanks TD | ||
| Tripper |
Well you've got to get the tire in the air somehow. I use a Centerstand to get the rear up and a bottle jack under the front shock eye to lift the front tire up. Check that the steering moves lock-to-lock lightly and smoothly, then grab the tire and lift up, no extra play is noticed, it's good to go. 5 lbs pull ain't much and the cabling probably causes more than that. I have 4 flat spots right now. From now on I will land crossed up so as to keep the on-center position from flat spotting. Or maybe sit backwards on the bars to dampen out any possible head shake upon landing. Hey, if it works for Rocket... ps - JMartz, don't tell Scott what Iv'e been doing with his bike. |
