| Author | Message | ||
     Al_Lighton |
Bill, Do no harm. If things aren't looking good to do it with the head on the bike, taking the head off is really not that big a deal. Taking it off and putting it back on again is about 1/2 hour longer than doing a rocker box gasket job, which is not bad at all, especially for a rear cylinder. The hassle factor is much lower than you think with these harley motors. Drilling with a hand drill axial down a bolt is pretty darn difficult, that drill guide sounds like a great idea, but it seems that if you had enough meat on the bolt to be able to grab the stud good enough for alignment, that you'd have enough stud to grab with vise grips to thread it out. If you bugger your head up drilling it out with it on the bike, you'll still end up taking the head off to fix it. So work slow and carefully and do no harm. Al | ||
| Ralph |
Bill, I should'a popped in before. The drill guide is dandy tool. As always be sure the stud stub is flat before you try drilling. I usually would suggest a left hand drill bit for getting a broken bolt out but head studs are a different matter. They are set up with what amounts to an interference fit. They are excruciatingly tight. Just drill it out using succesivly larger drill bits until you just about hit the threads, then use the easy out. Sometimes I don't even use the EO, to fragile (figured that out on your own, eh?). I made a tiny little chisel and break away the threads (carefully) if the EO doesn't work right off. Now, to get out a broken EO or tap. First do the dance of agony. Second get a few of those little diamond bits. I've never tried to cut a slot for a screw driver. I just cut through the EO or tap. Be sure to keep the bit lubricated with cutting oil (hell, use WD, just something to keep it cool and clean). It takes time and patience. I don't usually have much of either so I combine the cutting with a few smacks with a small punch to physically break bits off of the little bastard that's stuck. You'll find that usually you can break off pretty good chunks, when the steel broke it sent faults spiraling through the rest of the material. After a while you'll be able to reach in and pull out the remnants with tweezers or fine needle nose pliers. Remember, drill the broken bolt/stud out to the largest size you can. That lets you use the largest/strongest easyout and weakens the material you are taking out. The main problem with easyouts is that when you drive it in to get a good purchase you are also expanding the material you are trying to get out. In other words you are driving on heck of a wedge into something you want loose. That's why I usually just use a left handed drill bit. You'll find the bolt spinning out as you drill through it sooner or later, usually later, but it sure is nice to see that sucker come out clean. bighairyverboseralph | ||
| Chrisx1 |
Y2K: I'm glad to hear the mounts come with it. The race kit is nice I know. Should have just done that instead of the route I'm going, would've been cheaper and I could've got the SuperTrapp too, oh well, spread out over a couple-a-months the extra dough is no big deal. I just blew another $100 on 2 injectors. Had an error code last night on my ride home. jumped the 1&2 in the data link, it flashed 32, bad rear injector ?!? Bought 2 to be safe, (thanks TSI HD for havin' 'em in stock) just to find out that I missed a loose connector on the ECM that the dealer installed a couple weeks prior. Well I got 2 injectors if I ever need em. -C | ||
| Mdx1 |
note on polishing... some LIGHT rubbing of mothers polish on the stock exhaust pipes & header (gold colored) will give it a glossy gold look...real nice... if you rub the polishing wad longer and work it in... the gold will start to rub out... into a nice polished aluminum look.... i did this because plastic had burned into my pipes... so parts of the gold had come off anyhow when the plastic burned off from riding the sucker... anyhow, if you're too cheap to get a jet-hot coating, this is the way to do it. (i definitely could use a polishing buffer though... :P... would make this into a one-day effort...) | ||
| Reepicheep |
Well, for better or worse I got it cobbled back together. I drilled out the easy out using two diamond dremel bits ($10 each). Then I drilled out the stud by hand while on the bike. I ended up about half a bolt width off by the time I approached full depth. I used a tap to rethread the hole, and inserted the new bolt. Not perfect, but I think it will hold. If not, the heads will come off and go over to a machine shop anyway, which was the alternative, so I think it was worth a try. I am guessing work by the machine shop would be a minimum of $100... and probably closer to $200, and a brand new head from Buell is only $300, so I thought it was worth some level of risk to drill it on the bike. I fired up the bike to try it, and it sounded great and ran great. But... It was night, and I noticed a faint glow from the headers. I never noticed this before, but I never looked at night. Is this normal? I am still running the stock jetting and stock exhaust, but have a forcewinder intake. Does anyone elses headers glow in the dark? It's a little alarming, but I can't imagine what I would have done to cause this simply by removing the exhaust system... Bill | ||
| Matty |
Bill, it sounds like you've discovered the evil variant of the new X1W's pipes. Headers usually begin to glow from too much spark advance, too lean a fuel mixture, or an exhaust leak. Since you didn't muck with the first two, I'd gamble on the last one. fire the bike up and feel around the header/exhaust port. Do it quick before it heats up and cooks your fingers though! (don't ask how I know =8^o ...) | ||
| Reepicheep |
Well... I went back out after the bike cooled for 15 minutes or so, and fired it back up, this time being a little more carefull about not leaving the idle adjuster at mach 5. No glowing any more. Took it for a 15 minute ride, highway and city, and heat seemed normal, and no glows. I bet those exhaust gaskets were sealing and I was burning junk up off the inside and outside of the pipes (mainly about a gallon of penetrating oil that got EVERYWHERE)... this likely caused a slight exhaust leak and some extra heat. Plus, with the stock low speed jet and the forcewinder, I am probably on the lean side anyway. So anyway, it seems ok now, or so I am telling myself so I can go to bed  This whole experience has been an awfull ordeal. At least now things like rocker box leak looks like small potatoes Bill | ||
| Hans |
Reepicheep: ALL HEADERS GLOW in the night. And I am pretty sure on this one because I could track down the whole story of the contributor who ever complained about glowing headers on this board and who never took the trouble to write a follow up. Hans. | ||
| Thunderbolt |
Bill, way to go! you hung tough and got the job done. I like the way you looked at the worst that could happen (a new head)and you took the plunge knowing that it wouldn't be the end of the world. and you're right, the next time something troubling comes up , you'll have a whole new perspective! | ||
| Court |
Bill: You are AWESOME.....I love this glowing header thing. And I thought I was so cool using the igniter and butane to make flames belch out the back of my bike! Glad you were able to sleep! Court | ||
| Y2k01x1 |
for those of you running the buell race header, i've found the ultimate slip-on for it. actually got the idea from treich's posts back in april. i recently installed the race header and muffler on my 2001 X1 and really did not like the sound of the race muffler. almost like a stock muffler and the rear mounts are a real pain to install and remove. went to the local auto parts store and found a 2.5" I.D. turndown exhaust pipe. galvanized steel, about 12 inches end-to-end, and only $3.99 + tax. cut four slots in the header end of pipe, slipped it on, clamped it down and started her up. warning: if you do this, don't start the bike in your garage. it WILL scare you! the sound is absolutely unbelievable. will definitely be too loud for most of you or your neighbors, but i like it (ex-harley rider). other benefits: free and easy access to the primary chain adjuster and the primary drain plug, weighs less than one pound and no more messing with rear muffler mounts. took the X1 for a test ride and except for the additional volume, i noticed no loss of responsiveness or performance. stock motor with forcewinder XR2, race ECM and race header. PHASE II is to have a muffler or pipe shop duplicate the galvanized pipe in stainless steel, perhaps a couple of inches longer. a longer pipe may produce a deeper, more resonant tone. wish someone with access to a dyno could experiment with different lengths and/or diameters to determine an ideal setup although i don't think a couple of inches here or there can matter that much. not to me anyway, because the X1 has more performance than i have talent. will post follow-ups, good or bad...hey, its three dollars and ninety-nine cents! treich: thanx for planting the seed. | ||
| Zemen |
is there anywhere online i could order a white bros. slip on for my s1w? all i can find are slip ons for a 2 inch collector. do they even make a slip on for the 2 1/2 inch or will i have to buy a race header for one to fit on my bike? thanks. zemen/98 s1w | ||
| Al_Lighton |
I mentioned that my Supertrapp broke the other day..apparently I'm not alone, Jim Armstrong has been thru THREE of them. All three failed the same way, and mine broke exactly like the one that he shows here: http://static.userland.com/images/cafeRacers/BrokenSuperTrappIDS600.jpg It's clearly a design flaw, too much cold working of the metal in the front end cap where it attaches to the inlet pipe. I'm going to have it welded up, will post the fix once done. Al | ||
| Ccryder |
Zemen: Yes W.B. makes a 2.5" e-series. They have two warehouses here in the USA. I would give them a call at: White Brothers Cycle Specialties 24845 Corbit PlaceYorba Linda, CA 92887 Call (714) 692-3404 or Fax (714) 692-3409 Make sure to tell them that you want one for the 2.5" header. They have them in aluminum and in CF. If you have any problems drop me a line. Neil S. p.s. I love mine and it has withstood over 12,000 miles. | ||
| Tonyinvabeach |
I've got a few questions about the exhaust retrofit kit. First, if I want it, is it completely free (to include installation)?Secondly, my dealership is leading me to believe that even if I ask for it, they don't have to put it on unless my current mount is busted? Finally, the current mount looks pretty beefy, do I need the new kit? This dealership has bent over backwards to keep me on the road...and even replaced my plugs to 10R12's without charging me. Is this something I need to sweat having done? | ||
| Ccryder |
Hey Tony: Since the header support bracket and bushings are being obsoleted and they are no longer available, the only viable show in town is the 2001 header support. You are lucky that your stock bushings are not torn, but when they do tear, they will be no BMC replacements available. I am lucky that my Dealer is replaceing the header supports without too much of a problem at all. My $.02, ask the Dealer again and remind him that the existing bushings are obsolete. The S/B covers parts and labor for R&R. Neil S. | ||
| Treich |
Anybody know where this exhaust setup comes from? I saw it on jokermachine.com  | ||
| Ralph |
It's a White Brothers exhaust. I don't think they ever went into production with it. Call Tat, if anyone has one it's him. bighairyralph | ||
| Loqtus |
Al_Lighton et. al. : My Supertrapp broke the same way. The inlet pipe is loose in the can. I just shoved the pipe further into the can for a temporary repair.. The front end cap saws on the pipe though and is cutting through it. When you are ready I'm real interested to know how you fixed it. | ||
| Thunderbolt |
Does anybody know what the coating on this header is?  | ||
| Mikej |
WileyCo blown gasket. Just passing on a status of my WileyCo exhaust. I noticed yesterday that the flat exhaust gasket that goes between the inlet face of the muffler up against the pipe flange had an exhaust trail emanating from it. I removed the four screws from the front and dropped it down and sure enough the gasket was blown. Called up Hal's and talked to the parts counter, then went down there and they robbed a gasket from an unsold muffler kit to get me going. They'll be contacting WileyCo for a replacement, and I suggested they might order a few extras. Apart from that everything is fine. And Hal's parts counter person was most helpfull. And as a followup to their service department fiasco, the two sales people I know down there are extreamly aware of the problems customers are having and are being extreamly proactive to see to it that their customers are taken care of despite the new service rules. Hopefully they'll get service straightened out, at least they are trying. Anyway, just a heads-up on the WileyCo flat gasket, if you got one keep an eye on it. Now I'm just wondering if I should goop it up before I install the new gasket, or just put it on dry. | ||
| Y2k01x1 |
thunderbolt: are you sure that header is coated? looks just like my uncoated stainless steel header. the stainless steel takes on that brass/gold colored hue when heated. | ||
| Jmotta |
The rear mounting clamp broke on my Daytona Boss at 1,500 miles. Called Daytona Harley and the parts man says that he has recieved a lot of calls about broken clamps from people who did not have their muflers mounted at their shop. He did not, however, offer any instruction on proper mounting procedure. Has anyone else experienced this problem. It does not appear possible to mount the rear clamp improperly. Although he is sending a new clamp I am concerned about the new clamp breaking. If anyone can offer any insight I would appreciate it. I wonder if I can get some clamps that would fit at a muffler shop. | ||
| Krboller |
Jmotta - I broke a rear clamp on a Strapp can and had a local Machine shop fab one using better quality & thicker material, looks better & sofar, sogood, cost was $30.00. Good luck, Kurt. | ||
| H_Man |
Jmotta, I had the rear bracket of my BOSS break near the "tab" within 100 miles of my installing it. I called for a replacement (which they provided immediately w/o any problem). In speaking w/ Rek who designed the pipe, we went 'round and 'round as he tried to explain that the grommet/donut they provide is supposed to be used at the rear bracket to dampen the vibration. I did't use the donut on the rear and frankly couldn't figure out how the donut fit (that nipple doesn't fit through the oval hole of the rear muffler hanger). I finally got it worked out when Rek turned the phone over to a fellow Bueller who was in the shop. Turns out the guy just cut off the nipple, then sandwiched the muffler hanger with the donut halves, then the bracket tabs. This method has worked GREAT for me with about 200 miles down so far. H-man | ||
| Road_Thing |
Muffler mount destroyers of the world:  I have shown this picture before, but I'll post it again. This setup has held for about 2000 miles on my S1. The rubber strap is a from an automotive tailpipe hanger kit, costs about $5 from Hi-Lo. road_thing (my apologies to the real machinists in the audience!) | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Tom, My theory for the common inlet pipe failure mode of the Supertrapp IDS mufflers is that the rear clamp isn't stiff enough. It hangs just like your picture but by the Steel strap instead of rubber. The constant wiggling left and right due to the long hang length in the rear causes a fatigue failure where the inlet pipe goes thru the fron end cap. My guess is that your fix would only accelerate the fatigue cracking at the front for IDS mufflers. When my new supertrapp comes back from warrantee replacement, the first thing I'm gonna do is weld a hat section on it just like on the V&H and use the V&H rear hanger mount. I'm also gonna weld a reinforcement plate on the front end cap. It will NOT fail like it did last time again. IF it does, Supertrapp won't replace it under warrantee and I won't want them to. It took about 2000 miles to crack my inlet pipe last time. Niether of my V&H's have ever failed, even the older one with the thin front mount. I'd be using it if it fit my race header. Al | ||
| Road_Thing |
Al: You could be right! I also hung the front on the muffler from a similar rubber strap, so the whole thing is free to "wiggle" back & forth as a unit. That may just move the break point further up the headers toward the exhaust ports, but it hasn't failed yet. If I see my pipe break, I'll post it. Keep me posted on the outcome of your experiments, too! tom | ||
| Cyclonem2drew |
H Man - There was another posting about the rear clamp breaking on the Boss....ATB or Sacborg..like last week. I have one on my '00 M2 with no problems so far (about 1100 miles). My HD dealer mounted the rear clamp to the front hole in the Z bracket using a metal spacer about 1" long and a longer bolt (obviously). If you mount up without the spacer, the pipe mounted crooked and ends up too close to the rear wheel...use the rear hole in the bracket(out further), and the clamp it too close to the end of the pipe. Btw, I had called Rek about four times after I got the Boss, and each call he insisted on a different place to put the friggin donut! (By the fourth call, the recommended location was not on the bike!!) I don't even think Rek works there anymore. Good pipe, bad mounting/instructions/support. | ||
| Loki |
Wow, Problems with the Boss..... Hate to say it but....10k miles on mine and not one problem with either hanger. I think the original muffler mount is the way to go with the front. It sandwiches the hanger between the the front clamp ears(tabs). The rear will squeeze completely together and hang to the outside of the rear hanger. The rear clamp will then sit just forward of where the pipe downsizes itself. btw: I still have that rubber dohickey sitting in my tool box. Loki |
