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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Electrical - Battery, Charg Sys, Lights, Switches, Sensors & Guages » 04 XB12R Dies win started « Previous Next »

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Bamabuellbiker
Posted on Tuesday, September 10, 2013 - 12:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ive always had problems with my Buell, now when I press the starter the whole bike dies then no power when I turn the key back and forth.
This problem just started, the other problem once I get it started it will run great; however when I turn it off and try to re-crank it won't start, the battery is to low at 11.9volts; thinking this is the alternator? not charging the battery, If so how do I check with a amp meter.

or should I just take it to the Harley service place (and get ripped off)
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Harleyelf
Posted on Tuesday, September 10, 2013 - 02:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Step away from the dealer and nobody gets hurt. Your battery is dead and we need to find out why. Were the terminals tight?

Take a car battery out of the car. Remove your XB's dead battery. Attach the big battery to your bike's cables with real battery cables, not jumpers. Got a 12.6 volt DC reading across the battery terminals? Good.

Now start the bike. Got 14.7 volts DC across the battery terminals? If so, your battery was the only issue and be sure to tighten the terminal screws on the new one.

If not, take the stator plug off and check across the pins with an ohmmeter (stop the motor first) to see if you have continuity but very low resistance between them, below one ohm. Check each pin for shorts to ground. Now start the motor again and read the AC voltage between the stator pins. Got 28 - 58 volts AC? If so, your stator is good.

Check the voltage regulator to see all connections are tight. If you have 38 volts AC going in and 11.9 volts DC coming out, your regulator is at fault.

The only amp meter involved will be at the battery store to load test your old battery. Trouble shooting is mostly done with ohm meters and volt meters, amp meters not so much.

(Message edited by harleyelf on September 10, 2013)
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Bamabuellbiker
Posted on Wednesday, September 11, 2013 - 01:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks I'm going to try this today. I ment to say ohm/volt meter, thats what ill be using.

I dont have real battery cables, what would happen if I use jumper cables? Ill see if I can rig the battery to the bike's connection.

Thanks
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Reepicheep
Posted on Wednesday, September 11, 2013 - 02:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've used jumper cables fine. Do make sure the bike is *never* hooked to a running car.
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Harleyelf
Posted on Wednesday, September 11, 2013 - 02:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The jumper cables will work electrically, but there's a danger the hot one will arc to ground. Real battery cables are cheap and universally available.

Remember to remove or disconnect the existing battery so it doesn't bleed the good one.
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