| Author | Message | ||
     Bomber |
I think I found a Whitworth bolt back bye the oil bag somewhere's | ||
| Jasonl |
Y2k01x1 - Buell's are FAMOUS for mixing fasteners. Hopefully in the future they'll be more standard. | ||
| Loffie |
Anyone out there with fuel injection have any problem with a slight stumble off idle? I've installed a Vance and Hines SS2 carbon slip on,the Buell racing ECM and modified my stock air box with the X1 filter kit. My bike is a 2000 S3T. The stumble does not occur if I roll the throttle more slowly. If I crack the throttle it does the stumble. Any help or ideas would be appreciated. My dealer has already reset all the sensors with the scanalizer twice. Loffie | ||
| Airborne |
Here is some pics of the air box mod I did. The instructions are in the 18 April archive.  | ||
| Y2k01x1 |
such a privilege to live in beautiful california, motorcycles with catalytic converters and evap emissions control systems. i need some help from california buellers with the evap emissions controls. i want to lose the frame-mounted carbon canister. if i plug the vent hose coming from the gas tank and plug the hose going to the throttle body manifold (fuel-injected '01 X1), and send the carbon canister to the local landfill, will i have any problems? seems to me like there will be a slight vacuum created in the gas tank as my fuel level drops but the same thing happens in the gas tanks of cars and trucks. also, is it normal for buells to puke a lot of oil and stuff out of the breathers? please advise. thanx! | ||
| Y2k01x1 |
jocklandjohn: just received my force xr2 yesterday and installed it on my 2001 X1 last night. was relatively easy to install, looks awesome and motor seems to breather freer and sound better. the xr2's hard alum breather line loops around and then into a hole in the back end of the filter. yes, it does the exact same thing that the stock breather hoses do. if you don't mind sacrificing your motor to save the planet then you should be ok. however, after installing my xr2 and taking a short test ride, i noticed oil dripping from the bottom of the air filter. had to be oil from the breathers. i now plan to plug the breather hose in the filter and run a hose to a separate breather filter or more likely i'm gonna get a frame-mounted catch can. | ||
| H_Man |
Wassssup!! Thanks again for all the advice given by so many to help me start up my M2. Last time I posted about it, I had the bike towed to the dealer. While there, they tried replacing the plugs and that didn't work. They thought it to be a fuel delivery problem. Well, I've got the bike back (I've been making up for lost riding time so I didn't up date you all sooner) and they said I had a split in the "gasket" where the carb connects to the manifold (though I thought there's only a rubber boot or ring seal there. I guess we're saying the same thing). This led to the mix being so lean, the bike would run on its own. Hmmm. I don't know about that for an answer. Not that I'm any expert, mind you. The guy at the order write-up desk wasn't helpful in providing any add'l info. Well, she now runs great. Later this week I tackle placing the Daytona BOSS on the bike. Think I'll use the Loki method of installation : ) Jasonl - Thanks for the word about the ball-end hex wrenchs. I'd never heard of them before and I too have had a bear of a time tightening all the bolts on my Force filter. It works like a charm. H-man | ||
| Bigblock |
Y2k01X1, DO NOT plug the vent line from the tank. In fact, route it carefully without any kinks, and make sure your zip ties are NOT pinching the line, or you WILL have problems, the bike will act like it's running out of gas( don't ask how I know) You must have good venting to the tank!!! I have run two seperate breathers from my head to a catch can on my bike, although I had the single hose from the Tee running out the back and dumping under the license plate for a year 10,000 mi without any problems, I just mounted the catch can for a track class next week. I like it and will keep it. It's just a small plastic bottle that I drilled 3 holes in the bottom (2 for the hoses, 1 for breathing) that I mounted upsidedown with zipties- real- well to the front of the battery(I have a 2000 M2)It's almost invisible, works great, and CHEAP! If the oil mess you're getting is from the breathers, and not a leak, this should take care of it, and it should puke less out the brearhers as it breaks in. | ||
| Locutus |
Anybody know what the stock (Screamin' Eagle that is) pilot jet is in a SE CV44? I forgot to look when I had it apart... If anyone has dialed one of these in did you change the pilot jet? My bike stumbles big time right above idle when even slightly cold. BTW The main was a 220 | ||
| Y2k01x1 |
big block: thanx for the advice on the fuel tank vent. jocklandhohn: i didn't think the original force set-up has a hole to accomodate the intake air temp sensor. i didn't want to be burning all of that stuff in my motor anyway so i plugged the hole for the breather line in the filter and routed the force breather line to a breather filter until i can acquire a catch can. does anyone know what you get with the race ECM besides the higher rpm limit? are the fuel and ignition timing maps also modified? | ||
| Bigun283 |
I recently put a yost power tube kit in a 98 S1 white lightning. I also put in the 45 slow jet. I am running a buell race series air cleaner and vance and hines exhaust. The problem comes with the main jet. stock it came with a 200, but the kit didn't come with anything bigger. should I buy a 210? Also does anyone else only get 30 mpg? | ||
| Bigblock |
Bigun283, My 00 M2 likes a 42 low speed w/ the Yost, aand the 200 seems OK in my bike. The 45 was quite rich , it made my bike real soggy on the bottom, and your idle mix screw should be 2 to 3 turns out. Most guys seem to end up 21/2 t0 3 turns out. I also ended up using the blue yost needle, the red one was a bit much. However, my bike has cams, which may affect the carb tuning some. Try these changes, aand if you don't get any popping or backfiring and your mileage improves, there you go. You might try a plug read, they should be a ligt tan or gray, if they are brown you are too rich. My bike gets about 42 mpg avg, riding pretty hard, worst of 37, best of 50. I don't get much hiway riding where I live, mostly curves! | ||
| Jasonl |
I get 45-50 mpg on my 98 S3. Basically stock with a 190 main, and a 45 pilot. | ||
| Xlwp |
Question for All On any given engine, if an exhaust change caused the motor to go lean, would you say that motor was operating more effiecently or less effiecently? | ||
| Tripper |
More. Less backpressure in the muffler or better scavenging from the header shape/lengths have caused better filling of your cylinders. More fresh air is being drawn through your carb and the jets are supplying the same amount of fuel, hence a leaner mixture. | ||
| Peace |
Has anyone tried a CV44 on an aerocharged S1, I am having difficulties setting it up to run right. Someone suggested elsewhere on this site that I should run a 210 main jet instead of my 220, tried it and it splutted like mad above 4000 RPM. If I turn the fuel pressure up it runs better top end but terrible low down, so does this mean I should go bigger such as 240, any help would be appreciated. P.S. With a 220 main it dynoed at 132ft/lbs torque and 119hp rear wheel at 3900 rpm then lost the plot completely and nosedived. | ||
| Jasonl |
I agree with Tripper Peace - I have no idea. Yer a lucky dude to have the turbo working for ya but I have no clue on how to tune it. Maybe Pammy could talk to some old tuners and see what they say. | ||
| Blake |
Hmmm. 132 FT-LB x 3900 rpm / 5252 = 98 HP  | ||
| Xlwp |
Tripper, If you have better emptying and filling (pumping more air) of the cyclinders, wouldn't you have a greater pressure differential between the intake tract and atmosphere, thus causing more fuel to be forced from the bowl? I have seen where putting drag pipes on a previously muffled engine would cause that motor to go lean. But, generally speaking drag pipes are a poor performer. This has been buggin' me and I'm just trying to figure it out. Thanks PB | ||
| Jmartz |
Piece: I'm running a CV44 on my NA engine. It has been a bear to set up. I'm finally somewhere between "spot on" and "smear off". My suggestion is to buy the tuners kit and go from there. The sputtering at high rpm is likely and overly rich conditon. 200 with a stock CV40 needle is as high as I would go. I run a N65C needle lifted .040, a 45 slow and a 195 main. Bike still has some lean midrange spot so the needle needs to rise still a bit more. The motor is moderately modified and makes 100 RWHP. CV's are notoriously difficult to tune (I hear). What happened to the Mikuni your areocharger was supposed to come with? Jose | ||
| Tripper |
X1wp - I'm sorry, hold on a second here.... AAARRRRONNNNNN. Take over this conversation for me, please. There, he'll explain it to ya. Or read this, which contains the answer to your second question on why some drag pipes perform badly. | ||
| Jmartz |
Peace: Consider that CV slide needs to open under vacuum and that with supercharging a CV type carb might not be appropriate. | ||
| Xlwp |
Thanks Tripper Let me ask it a different way. If you change the exhaust on your bike and the motor goes lean, then would you say that pipe is beneficial? Fatten it up and you'll be making more power? And if it goes rich, is that pipe restrictive or in some other way causing a reduction in power? Thanks PB | ||
| Tripper |
U got it right. |
