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2screws
| | Posted on Monday, August 29, 2011 - 03:10 pm: | 
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Went on a fairly hard ride in the foothills this weekend and at one point started hearing some noise that sounded like a rattle. Checked the obvious hardware but nothing was loose; seemed better after the bike cooled off but came back after I started getting on it again. Any ideas? Thanks. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Monday, August 29, 2011 - 04:08 pm: |
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2000 M2? Work your way through the exhaust system, from studs to exhaust, paying close attention to bushings. You have the Y hanger upgrade for the front installed, right? |
2screws
| | Posted on Monday, August 29, 2011 - 04:34 pm: |
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Yep, 2000. Not sure about the upgrade..need to check as I've only had the bike for a relatively short time. Will check tonight and repost. Thanks. |
Ocbueller
| | Posted on Monday, August 29, 2011 - 08:04 pm: |
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Spark Knock is a possible. Even with high octane these bikes tend to ping at certain loads. You should be able to retard the timing a bit if pinging is what you are hearing.
SteveH |
2screws
| | Posted on Monday, August 29, 2011 - 11:05 pm: |
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Thanks Ocbueller, I will check that as well. Reep, is the hanger you are talking about the little y-bracket on the left, front side, bottom of case bolted to the pipe? If so that is there; all connections seem good but I will probably remove exhaust and check. My main concern was that it got too hot; don't want to ruin the only thing that makes going to work fun... |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 01:27 pm: |
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Yup, that's the one, sounds like you have the upgrade.
I wouldn't pull the exhaust, just inspect it. My experience with Buell exhausts has been that it is wise to inspect them often, and meddle with them only when necessary.
Look for broken header studs or lost nuts. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 01:29 pm: |
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Oh, and the 2000 M2's needed a primary chain tensioner upgrade as well. Don't know any way to check it short of removing the primary, maybe the previous owner of the bike knows if it was upgraded. The backplate on the new one is like 2x thicker than the original one, which would break. That could cause the symptoms you describe. |
2screws
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 01:36 pm: |
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Okay..thanks..I'll drop the guy a note to see if the tensioner was updated...I kind of wondered as I see it in this board a lot. If the tensioner is toast, do you think I did any damage riding the bike like that for 40 miles or so? |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 08:59 pm: |
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If the backplate is just broken, you will groove the inside of your primary... which looks pretty dramatic, but doesn't actually seem to hurt anything much.
But once that steel backplate works loose, it could go wandering. Generally it just sticks things in gear and makes it so you can't shift, but it could get to the wrong place at the wrong time and go horribly wrong.
I can't think of a way to check it. Get the metal primary gasket, and you can reuse it, and that's a worthwhile upgrade also... so no real harm in going in there and checking things out, especially on a used M2.
Great bike by the way... |
2screws
| | Posted on Thursday, September 01, 2011 - 11:17 am: |
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Thanks, I luv this bike..btw..i got the primary gasket part number from the forum..do you know if it's the metal one? (34955-89A gasket) |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Thursday, September 01, 2011 - 11:55 am: |
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I don't know from numbers, but they switched to metal a LOONNNNGGGG time ago, so if you get the latest greatest you are probably good... any of the badweb sponsors here ought to be able to make sure you get what you need.
The paper ones will work once. Sometimes.  |
Blake
| | Posted on Friday, September 02, 2011 - 10:15 am: |
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If the primary chain tensioner has failed the chain would typically become scary loose and adjusting the tensioner back to proper chain tension (~1/2"-3/4" cold, a bit looser than specified in the manual is thought best) would require a disproportionate amount of turns of the adjuster bolt.
Before you remove the primary cover, you might try using a dentist's mirror and a good compact flashlight to view inside of the inspection cover and the clutch cover. You might be able to see the tensioner shoe, especially if it's failed.
It's not just valvetrain clatter you're hearing is it? Does the "rattle" change with engine speed, throttle, gear, road speed? |
2screws
| | Posted on Friday, September 02, 2011 - 11:48 am: |
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Blake, this weekend will be the first chance I have to get to look at it since my 'ride'. I have been kind of hesitant to start it up again but I am going to open the derby and inspection to check to see if there has been a change since I checked it last..about 600 miles ago. When I first heard the rattle, thought it was exhaust noise as it seemed to go away after the bike cooled (seemed to have gotten pretty hot)Then it came back after the bike heated up again; however, checked exhaust after Reep's suggestion and didn't see anything obvious. As for valvetrain clatter, it never made it before and it is kind of hard to hear over the pipe unless I'm idiling or riding slow thru traffic. |
2screws
| | Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 12:34 pm: |
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First off, want to thank everyone that responded to my posts. This site is great. Also thanks to Tripp for getting my parts to me. In any event, pulled off the primary cover, and everything looked like it was brand new with the exception of the top of the case that looks like the chain has been hitting at some time. I did see that it was using the old tensioner and had a paper gasket so I replaced those items and put 'er back together; filled 'er up with 20-50, adjusted primary to what I thought was 3/8 to 1/2 inch at the tight spot. So far, no leaking. However, I noticed that when I am in low gear and accelerate, it seems like the chain might be hitting the case, but the noise goes away when I shift gears, to come back again until I upshift again; then at top gear I don't hear it again. Any suggestions? I was going to check the chain clearance again and re-adjust if necessary. Thanks. Oh btw...my original problem doesn't appear to have manifested itself... |
Harleyelf
| | Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 01:29 pm: |
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Filled 'er up with 20-50? You went to the shop and didn't get a quart of Sporttrans primary case lubricant? |
2screws
| | Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 01:37 pm: |
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Nope...I use the same stuff for both holes... |
Harleyelf
| | Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 01:58 pm: |
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No damage to the transmission as long as your clutch doesn't slip. Have you upgraded your front motor isolator? Mine rattled until I changed it out. The Harley engineers made the part "dual purpose" for both Buells, where the engine hangs from it, and Big Twins, where the engine sits on it. It's too rigid to be called an isolator; the redesign allows the motor to bounce up and down 1/8". I can see details in my mirror never before possible. My other front end rattle was the brake rotor. The best ones have 9 support floaters, not 6 like yours and mine came with. |
2screws
| | Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 02:13 pm: |
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Isolator was already upgraded. I had gotten my parts online..was why I didn't go to Harley shop. Thanks. |
Harleyelf
| | Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 02:26 pm: |
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How about your rotor? Got the good Nissan one with the floaters you can see through the middle of? Harley of St Paul has them online for $130! |
2screws
| | Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 02:38 pm: |
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Not sure..have to take a closer look at it... |
Harleyelf
| | Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 02:42 pm: |
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If there are nuts and bolts holding the rotor to the rotor support, you need to upgrade. If there are 9 supports and you can see through their centers, you have the new part. |
2screws
| | Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 06:29 pm: |
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Looks like I have the new part.... |
Harleyelf
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 10:39 am: |
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Then your rattle is most likely the primary chain. Did you rotate the engine to find the tight spot while the primary case was open? If your transmission main shaft is bent, the clutch basket and final drive sprocket will seem to wobble as the motor rotates. If everything looked good while turning, just tighten the adjuster a tenth of a turn or so. Anytime it clanks, it's too loose. If it both binds and clanks, indicating uneven stretching, replace the chain. |
2screws
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 11:43 am: |
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When the primary was open, the tensioner was out so the chain had a a lot of play...in any event..I think I will check it again and re-adjust..hopefully it wont need replacing..thanks. |
Harleyelf
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 02:15 pm: |
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Bent shafts are rare, and the final drive sprocket will weep oil onto your belt if you have one. They usually happen when idiots over-tighten the drive belt. Worn or stretched chains are not rare. If a section was above the oil long enough to dry out and rust, it could get loose while the rest of the chain was fine. Has it ever sat for a year in less than perfect conditions? |
2screws
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 02:32 pm: |
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Not that I'm aware of..only had it since April.chain looked really good tho... |
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M2 making noise after hard ride in foothills