| Author |
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Turboschwinn
| | Posted on Thursday, July 21, 2011 - 12:40 am: | 
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This is a long one I know, but thought the details would be important.
Recently the check engine light on my bike has been coming on intermittently (or what appears at first glance to be intermittent.) When the light comes on I pull over, stop the engine; light goes out. Upon restart;the light would stays out.
I took the Bike into the dealer and they said the only codes were ones showing the battery had been fully disconnected. (I had the battery disconnected this spring while doing an engine rotate to put ceramic coated headers on.) After picking up the bike from the dealer it was only after riding again a few times that the light has started to come on again but this time a few other weird things happened too...When the light came on this morning twice I looked down and noticed that the speedo and tach needles were doing the little dance (self check) they do when you first turn the key on; full peg and back to zero. This was while the bike was running at about 3000 rpm. It seemed to happen when I rolled off the throttle but I can't be sure...and while the engine seemed to be running a little rough like, it was going to quit, it did not quit and rolling back on the throttle smoothly resulted in smooth power application and the light staying on for while and then going back off while at speed (between 70 and 80mph.)
One evening, on the way home this week, the light came on again. Still intermittently and nothing seemed wrong with the way the bike was running. I was able to duplicate the problem when I noticed that at low rpm's the light would go out and above about 2000 rpm it would come back on...at 3000 rpm it blinked right on again, 2000K took a bit of time, but always when rpm were under 1000 (like at idle at a stop light) the CEL would go out.
I've done a few mods that I'm wondering have had an affect: breather w/catch can, heat shield on inside of frame, ceramic header and muffler coating (i've noticed a bit of heat on the outside of my right leg since I've put the shielding on which might mean the heat is being deflected off the bike instead of absorbed and I thought that would be good, but maybe I'm messing with the design too much (can't hardly believe that...) I always thought less heat is better for engines.
In the end, I figured out the light comes on at "higher" rpm and goes out at lower rpm. Engine seems fine and oil temp according to my American Sport Bike dipstick temp gauge is around 210...usually I see it around 200. Ambient temp was around low 80's.
Not sure what going on...going to talk to dealer tomorrow (bike is still under warranty)...been reading the other two recent threads on CEL and not finding a connection.
Been seeing some stuff about TPS resets (not sure what that is) and ECM stuff.
Any advice is appreciated...Thanks. -TK |
Two_seasons
| | Posted on Thursday, July 21, 2011 - 06:39 am: |
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Air cooled bikes get finicky in heat, and right now, that is what we have, lots of heat in the USA.
I'd check your grounds first to make sure you have good solid connections, then for chaffed wiring around the steering head area.
Do you know what codes you are throwing? |
Mesozoic
| | Posted on Thursday, July 21, 2011 - 12:07 pm: |
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Is the CEL blinking at a regular rate? That's the ECM indicating overheat and would set code 14. If it's not, then it's something else. Since you've already had some battery related issues, I would redo all the grounds (as I recently had to do for a similar reason). IMHO the ground plane in the bike isn't quite adequate from the factory. After I redid mine, my bike starts better, idles better, runs better, and is overall just a better bike! (2008 XB12) |
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