| Author | Message | ||
     V2win |
Lake Bueller, I too had this problem on my 97 S3T. All part numbers were correct on the cables and carb. Their were two of us putting the bike back together and the carb install was handled by the other fellow. He used a "spacer" that he made up to take out the extra play. Some time later, I was working on the bike and noticed that if I would just bend the bracket a little on the carb that the cables fit into, that it would take up all the slack. That's what I did. No more spacers and all is well. Take a look, bend slowly. I used a pair of needle nosed pliers. For what its worth. John | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Took everything apart AGAIN last night. I think I found part of the problem. The white horseshoe shaped guide in the throttle housing was almost completely worn through. I replaced it with a spare and things are much better. I still needed to adjust the cables almost completely to the end. Thanks to everyone for their assistance. I'll probably order a set of Mikuni cables after the Bringin' It Home event. Dennis | ||
| Smadd |
Dennis... before you order... to be sure of the size you might want to measure your current cables. Lay them out straight and get the exact measurements. Then, taking into account the excess you're currently finding, you can determine what lengths you need. Might save a little hassle in the future. Steve | ||
| Reepicheep |
Welcome BuellRanger! I put this question here from BuellRangers profile, as it can be a little confusing to a new guy (well, even to a lot of us old guys) where to put this stuff...
Was the 98 fuel injected yet? Or was it still a carb? | ||
| Lake_bueller |
All 1998 bikes were carb. I used to have problems with my 98 S3T but it was fixed with the recall/upgrade tank vent. Now the only time mine sputters and dies is when I need to switch to reserve. I do remember getting confused on which direction was "on" and which was "reserve" when I first got the bike. | ||
| Reepicheep |
So if I am understanding Lake correctly, the tube can be clear (what BuellRanger checked) but the actual valve assembly built into the tank could have an issue... that would cause exactly the symptoms BuellRanger described. Ride it again until it does it, then pop the tank lid and listen for a "whoosh", and see if the bike starts right back up. | ||
| Italialaw |
Hello all, My 98 S3 is having trouble starting. Specifically, after I shut it down and start it 5-10 min. later it turns over 4-5 times then fires. It always seems to happen when I stop and get gas then attempt to start it. However, when I start the bike for the first time before a ride it fires up beautifully. Here is my set up: 48 slow, 190 fast, idle mixture out 3 times, NGK DPR9EA-9 Spark plugs at a .040 inch gap, S&S air cleaner with a K&N, and Supertrapp IDS with 15 disks & open end cap. I have a feeling I'm running a little rich because I took a look at my plugs the other day and they were a black sooty color. What would the best solution be as far as making my bike a little less rich? Maybe turn the idle mixture screw in a half turn? Change the 48 to a 45? Does anyone think that the NGK's are junk and that I should switch to a different plug. BTW I never use the choke and do not allow my bike to idle excessively, that's why I think I may be running too rich. Thanks everyone!!!!!!!!!!! | ||
| Rocketman |
Your warm start situation might not be a problem at all. Consider the effects of differing engine temperatures. with regard to plugs, I've run Champion, Bosch, H-D, Splitfire and NGK plugs in my 98 S1W and I've experienced misfire and starting problems with everyone of those plugs EXCEPT the NGK's. I fit NGK's in probably every car and bike I service \ work on and I consider their quality second to none. In the case of my Buell I was surprised how much more reliable and long lasting NGK plugs are compared to the others. The surprise was not how much better though, more, how unreliable the others were. Does that make sense? Rocket | ||
| Italialaw |
Rocket, That does make sense. Thanks for your input. Any carb tuning suggestions?? I'm ready for the advice everyone! | ||
| Steveford |
Your pilot jet is too large as a cold bike shouldn't start and idle with the choke off. | ||
| Loudx1 |
I had my Fuel Injected X1's AFV Reset, I have a power commander and I did not do anything to that. I had the dealer scanalyze and reset my fuel ratios because I ran out of gas. Do I need to remap my Power Commander? It is running great and feels good, but my idle is at 2,000. I have to pop the clutch a couple times at a stop to get it to kick back down to around 1,000. This is only after warmed up for 2 miles. | ||
| Blake |
Sounds like either a power commander problem or a TPS calibration (TPS zeroing) problem. Or maybe your idle just needs to be adjusted a bit. | ||
| Evomx |
My '98 M2 is almost at 30,000 miles. I recently picked up another bike for long road trips and have been riding it alot so far this summer since I wanted to get some miles on it while the warranty is still good. I've started to notice a flat spot when accelerating from about 1/4 throttle up. Especially noticeable in 4th and 5th gears. As I get closer to wide open it seems to pull out of it. I don't remember it acting like that in the past, but I've found that riding another bike can make issues more noticeable on other bikes. The only mods are a 45 pilot, 2 1/2 turns on the pilot screw, and a V&H muffler. I've had this setup for years. It still starts and runs great. Plugs are light greyish with a touch of black on the outer steel. I use 10R12s. The bike will ping a bit in the midrange if I whip it hard when it's hot. My plan at this point is to shim the needle .01 and see if that helps. I'm just confused on why it seems to have just started. My hunch is carbon build up on the head and piston is changing the needs of the motor. I did a compression check last year and it was on the high end of the spec, can't remember the exact reading. Could this be contributing to a flat spot in the carburation that I'm just noticing now? Any input on something I might be missing would be appreciated! This board is the best. Thanks! | ||
| Italialaw |
My 98 s3 engine rattles/ticks (not loud) when it's below 3000 RPM and I hit the throttle hard. It seems to be more prevalent in warmer weather (80 degrees and above). Is this normal? Is this a common symptom of "lugging" the engine I almost always keep that tach above 3000RPM. I've done a search on BADWEB with mixed opinions. Anyone? | ||
| Henrik |
it's not ticking, it's pinging - or detonation. All in all a very bad thing for your motor. Yes, you're lugging the motor. From what I've heard, whacking the throttle wide open at low RPM drops air velocity through the carb, leading to poor fuel atomization, which in turn can lead to detonation. In other words ... don't do that  Henrik | ||
| Captainkirk |
And check tour VOES to make sure 1) it's hooked up, and 2) check the setting. It is adjustable. You can check if it's working simply by applying suction to it with an ohmmeter attached. If you need adjustment info let me know. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Kirk... I had no idea it is adjustable! What do people think, should you dial in the non VOES timing first, or can you "fine tune" the whole system from the VOES. Is the adjustment info in the shop manual? | ||
| Bmcdjw |
HELLO... I have a 98 s1 with small tank ,can anyone tell me if the m2 tank will fit and is the m2 5.5 gallon tank????.reason for upgrading is my s1 will only run 70-80 miles before reserve is this normal...???or is the reserve actually 1.5 gallons...any help would be greatly appreciated JW | ||
| Davefl |
The '99 and up M2 tank should be the same as the '98 S1W tank and will bolt on no problems. It is a 5 gallon tank. I get about 130 miles before I hit reserve on my M2 and have went at least 40 miles on the reserve without running out of gas. | ||
| Al_lighton |
If you look at old Buell literature, it says that an S1W/S3 tank is a 5.4 gallon tank and an M2 tank is a 5 gallon tank...don't believe it, they are all the same. The only thing you need to worry about is if the tank is an FI tank (integral fuel pump, no petcock) or a carb tank. After my letters bubbled, I put a black 2000 M2 tank on my S1W. It is exactly the same. Al | ||
| Bomber |
I've cut about half an inch off the little pipe on the petcock to reduce the reserve capacity of the tank . . . it doesn't alter the overall range of the bike, clearly, but it DOES extend the range before you go on reserve . . . . 1.5 gallon reserve is a little much for me . . . edited by bomber on June 10, 2004 | ||
| Captainkirk |
Reep, Sorry it took so long to get back at ya. Yeah, it is adjustable..sorta. There's a little rubber plug-thingie on the side you have to pop out.My SM tells you how to CHECK it on page 1.45 (but not how to adjust it...it's not "field adjustable"  . (psst...yes it is). I learned this trick from my brother. Tee off onto a standard multi-carb mercury gauge and measure your vacuum. Hook up the switch to an ohmmeter that reads continuity and apply vacuum to the switch. A meter with a Beeper works best. Or if you have a hand-held vacuum gauge, as they show in the book for *testing* it, all the better. Turn the adjusting screw to trip the switch where you want it. They give a variance of 5.0-6.0 inches of mercury. Mine was set at 5.0 so I didn't mess with it. I'm sure you could trip it lower if you wanted. Fill the hole with RTV when finished. What this does is allow you to advance the timing earlier (or later, as the case may be)Good luck! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Very cook CaptainKirk! Thanks for the tip. It would be nice to rig the thing with a switch, so if I get good gas I can set it in "performance mode" and bad gas I can back down to "preserve engine mode". | ||
| Bomber |
the book 101 Performance Tips for HD Engines (or similar title) has the Voes adjustment trick in it, along with some others . . . . mostly big twin stuff, but enough Sporty tricks to be worth the investment,(IMO) | ||
| Captainkirk |
You shouldn't need the switch. You're not changing the amount of ignition advance, only the vacuum setting at which it triggers. The advance curve itself is, I believe, controlled by the ignition module. In effect, what you're changing is the RPM (in relation to engine vacuum, or 'manifold pressure' as we call it in the aviation world) at which your timing begins to advance. Naturally, this is affected by compression ratio and overall cylinder health as well as cam lift, duration and overlap. I have my street motor in my smallblock Mopar on a full mechanical advance distributor that kicks in at about 1500 RPM and blasts it up to about 32 degrees BTDC and holds it there. This works exceptionally well with the high lift, long duration cam and high compression pistons I'm running. I don't see why there would be any difference in theory. Look at the difference between the stock Sporty cam in the M2 as opposed to the Lightning cam in the X1 (essentially an Andrews N4); TIMING LIFT DURATION @ .053 Stock 41/02 .458 223 N4 52/24 .490 256 N8 56/28 .500 264 As you can see, the bigger the bumpsticks, the higher the numbers. I would guess the N8 would run a sustantially lower MP until the motor really spooled up, in which case, you might want the advance kicking in earlier than with a stock cam. Or, to look at it another way, if your advance kicks in at say, 2000 RPM with stock cams, you may not be turning it on until 3500 with aftermarket bumpsticks. This is just armchair philosophy; I don't have a dyno to back up these theories (but they sound good, don't they?)If anybody out there has info to the contrary, stop me now, before it's too late!  | ||
| Vindigni714 |
Can Anyone tell me if a C/F race kit off a 96'S1 will fit a 01'M2? Johnny V | ||
| X1lightning |
HELP!! Has anyone experienced hard starting or NOT starting when using types of reformulated gas. I have a 99 X1 and ran plain unleaded with no problem(87-89 octane). I have gone to a local station (1 of 2 in my little town) and put on 92 octane reformulated gas. Each time (depending on how much regular I have in the tank), it starts hard or, if mostly the premium is in the tank, it just won't start. The other day I thought I'd try it again, since my tank was empty. Got home and next day it wouldn't start. Put a can of "Sea Foam" in to see if it makes a difference-nope! What a pain! The station is a "Holiday StationStore". I know they sell a lot of this because we have lots of fishing tournaments and boaters who buy this stuff, as well as other bikers, I suppose. I have checked into every other cause, and finally take out the tank, dump gas into containers and get regular unleaded gas, pour it in, let it sit for awhile and it starts right up. This is the third time. I couldn't believe it was a type of gas, since the manual recommends you use it, if available. I thought I got a bad batch, but it seems not. Has anyone had this type of problem? | ||
| Corndogge |
This is interesting stuff captain. Got any more? BTW what's the Mope? I know, I know, it's a Buell forum, but now I'm curious. | ||
| Captainkirk |
The Mope is a '72 Duster w/ 340 smallblock, 12:1 pistons, .450/.475 lift cam w/ .298/.308 duration, Holley 650 double pumper on Edelbrock Torker 340 single plane, Thorley headers ported, polished & cc'd heads, 4 speed w/Competition Plus, 3.91 posi and a bunch of other goodies. It runs mid 12's on pump gas. It's also out of commission at the present. I'll say no more as this IS a Buell forum. It seems lately the bikes have taken precedence over the car... | ||
| Tim |
X1Lightning, My Son has a Blast, my wife an XB9R, and I have an XB9S. We all run Holiday Premium almost exclusively around Minneapolis. Primarily because they have separate hoses for each fuel grade and its the closest station to my house. No problems in any of the bikes. |
