| Author | Message | ||
     Davefl |
I have a Mikuni, Force Winder and a V&H exhaust. I do not remember the set up but I will look when I get home. If I can find the sheet where it was dyno tuned I will give you the info. I am in Florida so it might be a little rich if you have some elevation. | ||
| Davefl |
According to the parts sheet from my dyno tune I have a 98 needle-clip #3, 50 accel, 150 main, 20 slow. Hope this helps. | ||
| Pnut |
Davefl, Thanks for the info, that helps alot. | ||
| Hogluvr |
Hi guys, haven't been here in forever and still see some familiar faces! Got a question: Will the above-mentioned fix for a CV carb do the trick on a bone-stock '98 S1, with the exception of a V&H can? I never rejetted the carb, and at first she didn't seem to mind the different can. It seemed like over the course of time she started getting tempermental, with an occasional backfire and some coughing through the intake. I took her out for the first time this season today and not only do I have the above, she won't idle at all unless I pull out the choke/enrichener. The stupid remote adjuster decided to freeze up, so I couldn't even turn that up when I got out on the road and found out she wouldn't idle. It looks like I've gotta take the air box and backing plate out to get a good shot at the adjuster cable, so I thought I might as well go ahead and rejet. Which slow jet is the better bet, 45 or 48? And it looks like the idea on the fast jet is to go down one size from stock, is this correct? If you guys have any other tips/tricks, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance for your help... Cheers  The Hogster | ||
| Henrik |
Hogster; I think most find the #45 pilot jet to work the best. Also remove the plug over the idle mixture screw (be careful not to drill too deep - screw small sheet metal screw into plug and pull it out with pliers). Starting point for idle mixture is about 2 1/2 turn out from lightly seated. I remember Aaron writing up the use of an older part # sportster needle instead of stock - do a search of the KV. Can't remember the main jet size I'm running. I'm sure others will chime in. Good luck Henrik | ||
| Italialaw |
Hog, I checked your profile and I live in the same area you do. I have a 98 s3 (carb, not f.i.) with a supertrapp exhaust and ••••• air cleaner with a k&n. I am running a 48 slow and a 190 fast, idle mixture out 2.5 times out and it has run great for me thus far. I've periodically checked the disks in my supertrapp and they are that nice golden brown color--one indicator of correct jetting. Good luck! | ||
| Ocbueller |
Hogluvr, Change out the intake manifold gaskets also. I suspect it's running lean due to vacuum leak and needs the choke to stay running. Those gaskets inevitably dry out and leak. SteveH | ||
| M1combat |
Uhhh, my two sense are telling me - DO NOT RIDE W/O A FILTER! Sheeesh... The post saying it is OK is perfectly correct... As long as nothing solid goes in you will be OK. I wouldn't bet on it for an instant. Something WILL get run through your valves. Maybe just a piece of dust that will lodge itself between your piston and cyl. Maybe just a tiny piece of sand that gets clamped by a valve and makes a nice piece of JUNK out of your valve seal... Anyway. Sorry, I just can't see the wisdom in running an engine w/o a filter unless you are on a track and plan on rebuilding the engine at the end of the day anyway. Good luck. | ||
| Hogluvr |
Thanks for all your help guys! I'll try the 45 on the slow jet first and go down one size on the fast jet. If I were a betting man, I think Ocbueller hit the nail on the head! It all makes sense, the bike has been getting more and more tempermental with time, which would make perfect sense if the intake manifold gaskets were slowly drying up. I looked in the service manual and have a question, though; has anyone replaced these and if so, did you have to remove the gas tank? The manual says you do, and it's not something I really want to do, I know with my luck (and outstanding coordination) I'll drop it  Italialaw, what parts are you from? Always nice to hear from someone in the area... Hoggie | ||
| Italialaw |
I have two questions all: My Buell (98' s3) likes to run at about 1100 RPM when it's colder and around 900 RPM when it's warmer (65+ degrees F). Is this normal? I seem to recall my old Honda CBR running like this. Also, the other day I verrryyyy slightly blipped the throttle and the bike stalled out. What would cause this? Thanks!!!!! Hog, I live in Painesville, which is about 35 min. north east from you. Let me know if you've got other Buellies around you and of any rides that you have planned. Not many Buellers around my parts. | ||
| 99x1 |
About 1 year ago, I replaced my O2 sensor as the bike wasn't running well. I posted my testing of the sensor here. Today, I noticed the bike was pinging under heavy load, and both spark plugs appear to have detonation damage (the rear plug has the insulator nose cracked). Took out the O2 sensor, and checked it - same failure as last year! (very low voltage output ~200 mv). Anyone else replacing sensors every year or so? The 1999s have the sensor placed slightly differently then later years - was this because of problems? The XB has it mounted closer to the exhaust port and vertical. | ||
| 99x1 |
Replaced my O2 sensor with an NGK 21002 from NAPA for ~$28 US. Running OK again. I cut the previous two sensors open - the first (right in picture) had a rattle inside it when shaken, and is broken on the sensor tip. The second appears to have nothing visually wrong with it, but it doesn't put out any voltage. Possibly got humidity on it while stored over the winter....  edited by 99X1 on May 16, 2004 | ||
| 99x1 |
From personal experience: When measuring the engine temperature sensor (ET) or the intake air temperature sensor (IAT), don't use an inexpensive meter. The thermistor inside the sensor heats up very easily, and the current from the meter causes self-heating - making the sensor read lower then it should. When using a cheap meter I read ~6K ohms on the meter's 20K range and about ~11K on the 200K range. Reading with both a Fluke 87 and a Fluke 196BM, showed the proper ~40K ohms at room temperature for the ET sensor. The service manual shows a Fluke 78 as a HD-39978 DVOM tool. | ||
| Bandage |
Help anyone?! 2001 X1, Force intake, Wileyco exhaust. Stock ECM. The bike's been running great till last week when it coughed a couple of times at about 80. Carried on going and all seemed well. A few miles on though it began to misfire badly and finally died. Checked the plugs (10R12's) and they were black with soot. Changed plugs for NGK DPR8EA-9's (I carry a spare set in my toolroll). Good spark. Bike started no problem and felt fine, for ten miles till it died again. Several plug changes later, I finally got home and began searching the archives.... Changed the O2 sensor, checked for exhaust/intake leaks. No change, still fouls the plugs after 10 miles or so, fast or slow riding doesn't make any difference. Any ideas? I don't wanna take it to the dealers without checking everything I can first!  | ||
| 99x1 |
Check the engine temp sensor (and intake air sensor) - if the ECM thinks the engine is cold it will try to "choke" it. With a good meter, the ET sensor lead to ground should read ~40K at room temperature and between the two IAT sensor leads, it should read ~30K. Warming the sensors slightly with a hair dryer should cause the resistance to go down. Check fuel pressure - if the fuel regulator doesn't regulate, the pressure goes high and the injector is putting in more fuel then the ECM is expecting. The pump should stop running after a few seconds when the key is turned on. Most any auto shop will have the fuel pressure gauge that screws on the fuel tank valve (looks like a tire valve near the filter). Could also be a sticking injector - while looking into throttle body, turn key on (start fuel pump), and you should see no fuel leaking into intake. Is the soot on the plug "dry and fluffy" or "wet and slick"? If your breather vent is plugged, it may cause it to burn oil. | ||
| Bandage |
Thanks for the info, and so quick too!  At least I've got something to try now. Once I can figure out where everything is! Sheesh, this is way more complex than my old shovelhead chop and an S.U. carb, I can tell ya! lol Yeah, the plugs are 'dry and fluffy'. In the short term I've been tempted to try some hotter plugs that a mate gave me(NGK Iridium DCPR7EVX-9). Dy'a think they'd help at all? BTW I didn't like the idea of chopping into my wiring and grinding away the housing to fit the intake sensor as per the force instructions, so it's secured into one of the breather holes instead. It's worked ok up to now, but could the problem be there? Seeing as how the whole sensor isn't completely inside the filter? I think the breather vent is clear, but I'll check it tomorrow just in case. thanks again!! | ||
| 99x1 |
I don't think the IAT mounted outside would cause it to run that rich. The Iridium plugs have a very fine tip, and should be able to fire through the fouling a bit better? (I'm guessing....) Good Luck! | ||
| Mbsween |
Bandage, my 2001 x1 fouled the Iridium Ngks (mine were DCPR9....). A hotter plug won't help, the injection with dutifully pump in a very rich mixture until the bad sensor is replaced. I had this happen twice, once it was the Engine Temp Sensor and once it was the O2 sensor. take a look here FI problems for a really short discussion of the ET problem. The sensor is easy enough to replace, cost was around 30.00 US. Good luck! edited by mbsween on May 16, 2004 | ||
| Italialaw |
I just ordered the old D&D chrome "megaphone" style pipe for my (part #: 62-9705). I talked with D&D and they indicated the pipe has been discontinued for about 4 years. Also, the tech indicated to me that the mounting tabs break. He suggested to have a welder reinforce the mounting tabs for a more secure fit. Has anyone had experience with this pipe that could offer some suggestions??? Thanks!!!!!!!!!! | ||
| Bandage |
Thanks guys, from what you say it does sound like the ETS could be playing up. I'll give that a coat of looking at first. Just looking through the manual, it mentions a 'special ET sensor socket' is needed to remove it. What's special about it? Can the sensor be removed with 'regular' tools? I've not found a thread dealing with special tools here, but I could have missed it. BTW What's the crack with the TPS? Is it worth having the shop check that too? To be honest I'm loath to take it in there if I don't have to. Those suits know •••• about Harleys, so I reckon they could write all their knowledge of Buells on a postage stamp with a magic marker!! | ||
| Bandage |
Correction to my previous post. I found this in the tools/tips/tricks archives.... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=158990#POST 158990 My next question o'course is....is that the best way and does it work? *g* | ||
| Mbsween |
Bandage, I made the "special" tool with a 3.00 socket and a cut wheel on a dremel. I made a groove in the socket where the wire lead fits. Took about 20 minutes and the spark show was entertaining for the first couple of minutes. here's a pic  | ||
| Bandage |
Great pic Mb. Cheers mate! | ||
| Bvan |
Mikuni question. My mikuni dribbles a bit of petrol through the overflow hose. I've read here that this indicates that the float level is set too high. My question is : Does this affect performance ? It really doesn't bother me unless I lose performance because of it. | ||
| Henrik |
Some say, that without proper float level, you're never going to get a carb properly tuned. I know on the SV, unless you're perfectly at the 7 mm factory spec you'll be chasing your tail trying to get the motor dialed in. However, the dripping could also be caused by a poorly seating float valve?? Henrik | ||
| Boatz |
My Buell had old fuel in her, and the Mikuni float was stuck first time I turned fuel on. Upon startup, the vibes jarred her loose. The previous owner cautioned me re that, said it had happened to him too since the fuel was 4+ mos old. SInce new fuel has been going into her, not a single drip since. Hey, is YoDude out of business, does anyone know? edited by boatz on May 19, 2004 | ||
| Davefl |
I will put it that if you have ever watched a bike burn that you would make sure that no fuel leaked anywhere on your bike. Just my $.02. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
My saga continues  I'm still have throttle issues with my S1W. I have about 3/4" or more of play in the throttle. The adjusters are fully extended. I've tried working them in different combinations but no luck. I even tried a different set of cables (again no luck). Here's the background: It has a Mikuni carb and the stock S1W 32" cables. The cables attach to the right (when facing the bike) side of the carb. I'm not sure if that's the "old" style or the "new" style. It did come with the S3 I bought before pulling the motor for the S1W. Any ideas?!?!??!? | ||
| Henrik |
Lake; I checked my parts bin and found my Mikuni along with a set of cables. Now I seem to remember something about certain years of tubers needing different cables for the Mikuni. I got a set with the one I bought from American Sport Bike for the S3 (1998). Maybe you could ping Al at American Sport Bike and ask if he has the specifics. Henrik | ||
| Rocketman |
Lake, get Mikuni cables. Rocket |
