| Author | Message | ||
     Seeeu911 |
Al: thanks for the input. I think Santa(Wife) got me those trick bar end mirrors. I do like the look of the Spondon swing arm. I'm still torn a little between the factory 99 arm. It looks great polished, just at some angles seems a little out of proportion on the S1. Since I'll have the rear end apart I'll probably get the oil tank too, the extra capacity is valuable here in the summer. I don't mind the extra fitments..fun actually. Based on the responses above from Cap and Rocket also I think the work is worth the results. MERRY XMAS ALL ! | ||
| Bigblock |
I know this isn't the lube column, but since your on the subject... I have a Jagg oil cooler, and a tall Dyna filter, and not only does my '00 M2 run nice and cool now, it holds 3 quarts of oil, now, too! Cheap and easy! Merry X-Mas all! Ray | ||
| Seeeu911 |
Has anyone seen this type of Steering Damper ? It mounts on the tripple tree and frame. Looks very interesting. http://scottsonline.com | ||
| Seeeu911 |
Donn, Unfortunately the Buell's engineering does not lend itself to our style of mounting, meaning there are no practical points to mount our frame bracket to. We make kits for almost every other brand that allows attachment points. Sorry and thanks for trying. Scott At 06:59 AM 12/26/2000 -0700, you wrote: >Good morning, Great product ! > >I have 1998 Buell S1WL. do you make a kit that would fit my bike ? > > > >Donn Griffin >Engineer >Qwest Communications > >"Business is War"...Bill Gates > Please visit our NEW website at: http://www.scottsperformance.com Best regards, Scott | ||
| Dave |
Cap, Andy or any other suspension gurus. I'm goin' to swap the springs in the front forks of my 99 S3 so I picked up a set of 1.0 kg Race Techs from ASB. The box came with 2 springs and 8 washers. (no "spacer material") Should it have came with some? I seem to remember you two cutting spacers or shims at homecoming? Any preferred fork oil/weight? Do I need any special tools that I can't get by without or poke an eye out if I don't use? Any special tips or tricks? (Special incantations, cuss words, meditation, medication, etc) The instructions with the springs seem to be pretty good, but proven tactics and measurements from you two would be appreciated. DAve | ||
| Tims |
Hi Any one out there got a Penske shock on their Buell? Any idea what spring/ shim stacks you're running? What's your impressions on this shock? I just picked up a Penske and, although anything would be an improvement over that poxy Showa, I ain't that impressed with the way it's set up out of the box. Harsh ride with compression dampening screwed right off and just gets worse with more compression. Maybe good for two up but lousy for solo. Anyone who's had Ohlin equiped jap bikes will know how good suspension can be. | ||
| Tims |
Actually, Ohlin equiped anything really | ||
| Joep |
Dave, I too plan on replacing the springs on my S1W, primarily to diminish the brake dive, but I'm gonna go with the less expensive Race springs. I read the manual and it seems pretty straight forward, except for compressing the spring to remove. Not sure how to do that. Hopefully Cap or someone else will respond. Interestingly, a fellow Bueller mentioned that his S1 pulls ever-so-slightly to the right on hard braking, after installing the Race springs. Ever heard of that? Regarding the oil weight, I believe (I may be wrong) that Andy recommends/uses a different weight on each tube. (10wt for compression and 5wt damping???) | ||
| Cap |
Dave, How much do you weigh? The spacers that are in your forks can be cut. I am a Big Fan of running as little preload as possible and using the correct spring rate for your weight, This week we modified Andy's springs so he only needed 15 mm of preload, We also added some shims to the rebound stack so he could use 5 weight oil. His bike now has the rebound adjusters set closer to the middle and should be plusher overall. Email me some stats or post here and I will help you out. | ||
| Buellhowser |
Tims: The Penske shock is the absolute best upgrade I've done to my bike; I'd choose it even over the race kit! They should have asked you your weight and riding preferences when you ordered it. Mine has a 600 lb spring for my 220 lb weight, and I add a bit of preload when riding two-up (which leads me to my next question): I need to know if the new '01 isolators hold up at maximum payload. Could someone speak up who has done an extensive spirited road trip with the new units? Every trip I've taken with luggage and passenger results in toasted isolators and I need to know if the new ones are worth it. | ||
| Tims |
Hi Buellhowser Was asked my weight but not rider preferences. HAve no idea what spring I got, but would guess I got the right one. The spring sage set up ok. Any markings on your spring to distinguish it as a 600lb spring?? So what shock did you end up with?? The base model 8100 or the 8600?? I was recommended the 8100 but a performance shock with six rebound adjustments isn't that good to me. The 8600 gives 20 rebound settings. Can't deny the excellent quality of it though and Penske have been real helpful with getting me sorted so far. | ||
| Randry |
I've tore two right side isolators, both times with a passenger. I had the 2000 iso. not the 2001. I crank up the pre load some to compensate for my wife.We are not over the wieght limit. I wonder if I am bringing failure sooner by doing so ? | ||
| Buellhowser |
Tims - I'm on the 8100 I believe, as it has 6 rebound adjustments. 20 adjustments seemed like too much to play with, and I have no complaints at all about the range of adjustment. Lindemann Engineering, who are near my house, set me up with the 600 lb spring. Seems that Penske should have a record of what spring they set you up with? Randry - I've been to hell and back dealing with isolator failures on my 99, and Buell informed me it's my fault for riding two-up. The bike is fine with just me, but add luggage and eight hours of twisty roads, and I guarantee you I can toast the isolators in one day. I need to hear a '01 success story, I'm sick of riding solo and without luggage. | ||
| Cap |
Three things about suspension that everyone should understand........ 1. The spring does most of the work and you need to make sure your bike has the correct springs for your weight and riding style. With the correct spring rate you should be able to run minimal preload to get the correct static sag. Sag is the amount the bike settles into its travel with the rider onboard. The numbers are 25-38 mm. The bike should also have a free sag of 0-15 mm unladen. If you have 0 free sag and the bike tops out hard after you set the correct static(rider onboard) then you need a stiffer spring rate because you are having to run too much preload. If you have too much free sag then you need a lighter spring rate for the best street ride. Racers and riders that really push their bikes can use heavier springs but you should be honest if you go heavier than you need. 2. Compression damping helps to control how fast the spring compresses. You want both end to compress at the same rate. The adjusters only control low speed damping. Use the adjusters to balance both ends and don't make them so stiff that the bike feels harsh.There are three factors to consider. The first is oil weight of the suspension fluid. The lighter weight oil you can use will give you consistent performance through the heat cycles that the fluid has to go through. I use 5 weight because it can't thin as easily at high temps as heavier oils. There is a 2.5 weight oil now available but I will have to test new shim stacks before you use this weight. The second factor is the shim stack used in the piston cartridge. These shims are a stack of flexible washers that vary in width and thickness and their sole purpose is to control the speed that the suspension fluid flows through the piston. The shim sizes are chosen to create a smooth damping curve. This combination of shims help keep the tire gripping the road and isolate the rider from bumps, holes, and everything else you can run or jump over. The stack should be set up to stop bottoming so you can maintain control of the bike over rough surfaces. The third factor has to do with you. How do you want the bike to feel? Racers will sacifice comfort for control but stiff suspension on the street will tire a rider. You have to make this decision for yourself and be honest about it. Set the bike up for how you usually ride and not for the once a year track day. 3. Rebound damping helps to control the speed the springs return to their resting state. Rebound is a constant so once dialed, it won't need adjustment unless you change springs or preload. You need your suspension to rebound quick enough for the next bump but not too fast. Holding the bike upright with the kickstand up,you should be able to push down on the tank with your right hand(where it meets the seat), left footpeg(with your right foot while standing on the left side of the bike), and hold the left grip with your left hand. You want the bike to rebound back to free sag without going over(add more rebound damping if so) and you want both ends of the bike coming up at the same rate. Too much rebound will cause the suspension feel hard or too stiff because the suspension is packing down in its travel and is too slow to get set for the next impact. Too little will feel like the bike has very loose handling and can actually make the wheel leave the ground(this is very bad!). Setting rebound can involve changing the shim stack in the rebound cartridge if the rebound adjuster isn't enough(WP's need a few more shims because they don't have enough damping if you change to heavier springs). Ask me questions and I will help. The idea is to keep the chassis in balance while providing a smooth ride. By the way... Andy is Da Man!!!!!!!!! | ||
| Tims |
Afraid my Penske dealer is 2200kms away. Smooth is what I'm after The best ride sofar is with the rebound and compression adjusters set to minimum but its still too harsh over bumps for my liking More rebound makes it harsher as does compression. I need to ask more questions about that spring for starters. Thanks | ||
| Tims |
So your sag measurement is taken from the axle centreline to a point on the bodywork? | ||
| Cap |
Yes that is the way you measure rear sag. Put a ziptie around one fork leg to measure front sag. | ||
| Chuck |
Please help. My 2000 M2 was bought used, last October. The dealer only had a '99 owners manual to give me; but apparently, the rear shock shown in this manual is different from the one on my bike. I imagine that the procedure for setting rear preload is similar; but I'm not certain "where" or "how" on the shock to make the adjustment; and my factory service manual has STILL not come in. Can anyone enlighten me  | ||
| Buelliedan |
Chuck, 99 and 00 Cyclones have exactly the same shock from the factory. Now yours might have had the new recall shock installed so that would change everything. The easiest way to tell is if you have a resevoir or not. If you have a small second tank like object with a hose attached to your shock then you have the new recall. if not, then you have the 99/00 shock. If you have the old shock them just adjust it according to your 99 manual. Dan 99S3 00X1 | ||
| Tims |
Can anyone tell me the wet weight of a 97 M2. The engineer at Penske needs to know to help get this new shock set up. Has anyone actually weighed their bike?? Thanks Tim | ||
| Blake |
If the 425 LB dry weight is correct the fully loaded (full fuel tank) wet weight oughta be somewhere around 455 LB (5 gallons of gasoline and oil weigh about 30 LB). | ||
| Blake |
That includes the nearly 4qts of oil (engine and tranny) plus some extra for wheel grease and float bowl. | ||
| Junior |
Is a steering damper necessary for street riding? I was considering a Storz if necessary, any suggestions? | ||
| Chuck |
Hey John, If you're riding a Buell with stock steering geometry, there's no way you need a steering damper. But when you change front or rear ride height, or alter forks or tripple clamps or swing arm to "quicken" the response of the chassis, you usually sacrifice some stability. There have only been a few street bikes that needed a steering damper right from the factory; but these were "racer/replicas" with "radical" rake and trail numbers. Some road racers don't like steering dampers because restricting the movement of the steering head can sometimes cause other "handling" problems . . . But most racing organizations require them. I don't know whose damper is best for the Buell; but I wouldn't spend the money until I had done everthing else I wanted, first -- including custom paint. Steering dampers do look cool, though  | ||
| Smadd |
Just had the replacement shock installed (my recall unit leaked). Great shock... handling is improved... and it certainly looks beefier. My problem: My beautiful ASB shock adjusting wrench *does not fit* the new shock! Does anyone make a wrench for this shock yet? Steve | ||
| Dave |
The Race Tech spring (1kg) install went really good. Now that I've done it once, I'm sure I could knock it out again with little trouble. I know you've heard it before but these bikes do seem quite easy to work on. A quick run down of some of the minor delays I encountered. (All parts names are right out of the maintenance manual.) Once I got the shocks off and unscrewed the fork bolt" from the outer tube, I had a hell of a time figuring out how to get it off the damper assembly so I could remove the spring. A mental block I guess because it's screwed onto the damper assembly.   Figuring how much to cut off the spring collar (spacer looking piece). I called Cap for assistance on this. (Thanks Cap!) The Race Tech springs are taller than the stock ones, so I measured (twice) and cut off the difference between the two. This made the spring collar and Race Tech spring equal in height to the old spring with stock spring collar. I cut 4 cm off.  Assembling the spring on the damper assembly with the spring seat stopper (retaining clip). Remember that it takes a lot less cussing when you have the spring in with the top up and the bottom down. These do have a top and bottom! The top is tapered just a bit. Once in correctly, I needed an assistant to slip the spring seat stopper (retaining clip) in while I compressed the spring a bit. That was the extent of any delays. With a pukin' rear shock and me on it, I have an initial sag of about 31mm. According to Cap, this is in the ballpark. I can add a spacer to reduce it, or cut the spring collar more to increase it. Reading Race Techs' instructions complicated things a bit because if you lift slighty and let the bike settle, you get a higher reading than if you compress the forks and let it rebound slowly. They say to take the average of the two. No biggy though. The white thing in the picture is a dipstick I made out of an old piece of plastic venetian blind. The bigger section sits flush on the shock tube while the length of it measures the oil level. It's notched at 80mm for a standard fill level. I can't give my rider's perspective yet because of the leakin' rear shock. (I want to conserve the oil in it if I'm forced to play show and f-in tell with a dealership in order to get a replacement) I did ride Jim L's S3 at Homecoming after the Race Tech install and it was sweet. A definite improvement! DAve | ||
| Jiml |
DAve, You done good. That's a great way to spend some time on the weekend. Made good use of you Christmas presents I see. Been working on the S1 and it's starting to look pretty good. Maybe we can hook up in a few months over at Mount Vernon. later, jiml | ||
| Jammer |
Hey all, I need some advice. My recall shock is leaking and I like the way it performed should I get it fixed (I don't think it's been A year yet) or should I go with the 2001 shock? What is the proposed life cycle of that shock anyway? Am I going to be repairing it every year? That would suck! You would think Showa would make A more reliable product. It leaks from the inside of the can, so I can only assume it's A seal. Is their A quick fix for it? Maybe something that is easily over looked. With the way rubber technology is today I couldn't imagine them installing An inferior seal. Damn, there goes my virtually uninterrupted ownership experience. | ||
| Smadd |
Jammer... I can't speak for rebuilding the new shock or the recall shock. I'm sure it can be done. My recall shock puked a couple of weeks ago. I still rode it a bit... and my dealer got the new one in 2 days! I just had to wait a week for an appointment where they could change it out while I waited (and a couple of other small recall items I had neglected). I love the new shock.... handling seems improved and it's definitely beefier. Only problem is my aluminum ASB shock tool doesn't fit the new shock (for preload adjustment). Gotta find a new tool. I don't think your ownership experience should be too interrupted. The shocks are available and the dealers can get 'em quickly. At least my dealer did. Good luck. Steve | ||
| Ccryder |
DAve: Great picts, as usual. When is the DAve traveling spring show going to be in EVV? I can have the springs in a day or two. Let see how many 12 pks would it require?? Later Neil |
