| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
No neutral light to start, will not engage into a gear, drum pins - except one - are a tad longer than the max .335 - what should be my next step, bring the pins in, readjust shift pawl, and what? I get no neutral light. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Drum only moves a tiny bit. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on June 27, 2009) | ||
| Ezblast |
Any suggestions on the case splitting? EZ | ||
| Blake |
Your problem is beyond my level of experience. Sorry bro. I'd try to avoid splitting cases if at al possible. Disassemble clutch to ensure it is spinning free and clear, no debris or other issue? | ||
| Ezblast |
The drum is not doing its thing, I've tried everything I can think of, motor runs, no gears, no neutral lite, all the way into the primary and the drum acts like its stuck between gears and won't budge/rotate. Pronounced dead - 628/9 @9:10AM - now do I need a press to split the cases or can this be done by hand? EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Any hints for removing the pully with out using the HD Tool? EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
What size socket does that front sprocket nut take? Also how would the neutral switch jam the drum? EZ | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I know on tubers the shift drum has a metal stud that goes through a hole in the center of the detent plate, and is held in place with a snap ring. There is enough slack between the snap ring and detent plate to let it wobble a little bit when the shift pawl applies pressure to change gears and I've read online that the stock snap ring retaining setup is vulnerable to coming loose or breaking, and letting the detent plate run loose inside the primary. I don't know if the Blast has a trap door or not, but if it was my bike I would pop the primary cover off and have a look at the tranny parts as deep as you can just to see what everything looks like. (wonder how long it will take for someone to poke fun at the term "tranny parts") btw, if that happens to be the problem I would suggest a baker smooth shift kit. Comes with a shift drum and detent plate that have recountoured lobes on the detent plate and slightly different grooves in the shift drum that cause the forks to move a little smoother. Plus the detent plate is attached with a buttonhead allen into a threaded hole in the shift drum instead of the snap ring on metal stud stock setup. (Message edited by pkforbes87 on June 29, 2009) | ||
| Ezblast |
The primary side is naked - will totally do that side, if it is the Neutral sensor some how jamming up the drum, if not, then the drum itself is the cause, and I'll have to split the case, which means I'll have to buy a press - lol EZ | ||
| Lucas70374 |
you dont need a press to split the cases you just need it if you plan on taking the flywheel or transmission shafts out. email me since ill forget about this post lucascurole@gmail.com | ||
| Ezblast |
First news - the socket needed for the front pulley nut is 1 7/8". First question - how to stop that pulley from turning with out the use of the HD tool - Ideas? Is that pulley the same as the XB27 tooth unit? Just curious - If I split the cases, you can bet I'm pulling everything, and going over all of it, new bearings everywhere, etc. - be damn if I want to split the cases more than once - so if I'm in there, things will be done to product 'improve' as a sharp cookie used to say. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Impact driver moved it a little, so I PB Blasted it, will do so again in the morn before I leave for work, and hit it again tomorrow nite. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Time of death July 1st, 2009 @ 8:26PM - sensor was fine, means drum is fubar - shit! Ahhh well, I shall rebuild, tear her all the way down and rebuild all the way up! I'll make her a bit faster, a lot stronger and slap her into that XB frame that has been waiting for such an occasion. EZ |
