| Author | Message | ||
     Cowtown |
Blake, good suggestion, maybe I'll have Kevin make another without the bevel and round the edge with some sandpaper. | ||
| Kcbill |
I must say I would suspect your breather looks to small. I'd bet a dyno would show you that. Don't get me wrong I think it looks very nice. I had a similar set up and it was worth 5 hp when I went to the 3" oval. I'll take the power. | ||
| Country |
I cleaned the air filter yesterday and decided to check the oil level since it was leaking. I took the dipstick out. Cleaned it off, put it back in, took it back out and there was no oil on the dipstick. I took my finger and put it in the oil pan and touched the bottom of the pan with my finger without touching any oil. Now the engine was cool for a couple of days, but there should still be oil in the pan, right? I am going to put in more oil tonight so I can ride to work tomorrow, but I am really concerned about what damage might have been done to my bike, if any. | ||
| Mikej |
"Now the engine was cool for a couple of days, but there should still be oil in the pan, right? " Before you add more oil start the bike up and watch the oil indicator light. If the oil light goes out indicating you have oil pressure then let the bike run for a minute or two. Then shut off the bike and recheck the oil level. After a few days the oil may have worked it's way down into the crankcase and running the bike will pump it back up to the reservoir. Check your oil level at the end of a ride, not at the start of one. Several/many/some people have learned this the messy way. Clicking your link I see you have a 2002 M2. remove the seat and with a flashlight look down inside the oil tank/reservoir, you should be able to see oil in there. With the seat removed and with the oil filler cap removed and with the bike in neutral and the top of the oil tank cleaned off of any debris, start the bike up and hold it above an idle. You should be able to see the oil returning to the oil tank from the inlet side of the tank, it will probably be a little bubbly which is not really a concern. edited by mikej on July 15, 2003 | ||
| Jim_witt |
Just for information sake, you can cut a ring yourself with a circle cutter (cuts wood or plastic) if you have a drill press, plus you can use a router to shape the circumference to your liking. It makes a smooth square cut too.  -JW:>  | ||
| Hoser |
Anyone ever install an Airtech GP full fairing on an S1 with the ram air box ?????.I know Motorcycle online had one in use on the pro thunder bike for a while and then removed it , gaining power and speed in the process , they were pressurizing the float bowl by using the ram air. I believe they were using a CV carb , a Mikuni has different bowl venting which does not communicate with the throat of the carb whereas the CV bowl is vented at the inlet of the carb. Does anyone agree , disagree , have experience with this fairing / ram air kit ? , if so please share your experience. A few fittment problems but with some tweaking it should fit / function nicely. This is going on a super twins road race bike being raced in western Canada , Canadian thunder is not a national series , YET . | ||
| Bud |
A velocitystack question, I was offered to roadtest a longer velocity stack on my XB, I think it will make more torque, but loose a few horses at the top I also am thinking about making a big dent in the cover plate ( I tossed the airbox cover out already ) The dent will be placed above the bell off the velocitystack. Dose any off you tech-heads think there will be a improvement ?? ( I talked to a guy, hoe said the found out that the echo off the inlet pulse coming off the cover was helping the inlet air VE ) gr,m | ||
| Loki |
my two cents on the forcewinder. I totally agree with Aaron, my M2 was living proof of it. I opted to modify the 5/8" spacer that was installed for other reasons, rather than the Force. I took the spacer ring(Kuryaken) and opened the entire area around the bowl vent hole. While I had it all apart the spacer and force were blended together to smoth things out. My jetting changes before were way out to lunch. After I was able to get it into the ball park. The change was just plain incredible. The before was plain ugly! With the Force(w/spacer), Daytona Boss, and the reccomended carb changes, the dyno said just 57hp. Modded spacer with some jetting changes(using an a/f guage(autometer)the next time she made it to the dyno, it came out with 78-79hp. Go figure.... loki once again this was just my two cents worth | ||
| Lugginjugs |
Real quick. Does anyone know whether the breather bolts on a 1340cc motor will line up with the bolts on the 1200? I was thinking of getting a screaming eagle (round) big twin air cleaner to throw on my bike. I saw a post of one done from back in 2000 but I didn't know what kind of reworking of the backing plate had to be done. | ||
| Roadrunr |
Yes the bolts will line up. I had the round evo filter on mine for awhile. you will need to get a spacer to put behind the backing plate to keep it from rubbing the frame. I have the backing plate and the k&n filter if you need it let me know. | ||
| Lugginjugs |
Roadrunr, Thanks for the prompt reply. I'll keep in touch re: plate and filter. Perhaps a more appropriate question at this point is what did you switch to? If your profile is up to date your back to the box? edited by lugginjugs on September 22, 2003 | ||
| Roadrunr |
Back to the box for now till I can swing the c/f tank accents and the forcewinder intake. BIG $$$$$$$$$$$$$ | ||
| Lugginjugs |
Roadrunr, Roger that. Someday I dream of putting on an 'E' carb and teardrop air cleaner. I'll probably exercise some discipline and not do it half-ass with the Screamin' kit. If you can live with the box I can too. My wife will no doubt thank you for your outstanding example. | ||
| Xb9rski |
Rather than read hours of stuff where I might actually learn something, I'm just going to ask my Q: Where can you find the K&N air filter for an XB9R. I've looked on their web sight and the Bas%^&'s don't even list Buell. Thanks Ski | ||
| Steveford |
Ski, Buell part # 29388-02Y is what you want when you ditch the cheap paper element. | ||
| Sportyeric |
For those who've tired of fighting with the intake manifold bolts, the Sportster List just had someone post about a Caterpiller tractor bolt: Caterpillar part number 1T-0416, that works better. | ||
| Xb9rski |
Thanks Steveford. | ||
| Werewulf |
re: screaming eagle harley twin cam air cleaner. i saw a m-2 with the twin cam SE air cleaner kit on it, with just the harley center insert on the outside. it looked really good and cheeper than the race carbon bread box. is there a reason that this combo is not used more often? | ||
| Lee |
Before I buy an intake for my 88 inch S1...does Force finally have their sh*#t together with the XR2's or do you still have to do dremel mods to get it to run right. I sure do like the looks and practical nature (knee room) of the Force but don't want a big hassle with modding it all out. | ||
| Lee |
Forgot to mention...is the Force problem with just the CV Keihins or are other carbs affected as well? Thanks, Lee | ||
| Sgtbuell |
LOKI or anyone I just had my hyper charger installed by LaFayette aka Buellistic this past Tuesday. He installed the T line from the voes to the charger but the butterfly valves stay open. Is there something we are missing. I have noticed that a number of people who have the charger rig it so the valve stays open. Whats the difference. | ||
| Sgtbuell |
Someone, anyone, a little help here with my post above. | ||
| Hoser |
Sean: As you are aware the Hypercharger is vacuum operated , manifold vacuum operates the motor on the back of the hypercharger body , pulling the butterfies closed at idle. Inside the vacuum motor is a diaphragm and spring , the spring pushes the butterflies open when vacuum is not strong enough to overcome the spring. If yours is not working it more than likely has a vacuum leak , check the hoses and the tee for cracks , I have seen the vacuum motors on these assembled incorrectly , the diaphragm pinched or not seated properly. It's repairable if this is the case , careful disassembly / reassembly of the vacuum motor may be necessary. Be VERY carefull when removing the pivot bushings that the butterfly shaft rotate in . They are a cheesy casting and are quite delicate , as in easily broken , loosen the screws evenly , do not remove one and then the other , there is a spring inside the pivot which pushes axially on the butterfly shaft , it will want to push the pivot out of the main body , having only one screw in place while the spring is trying to push the pivot out WILL break it. The good news is if you break one replacements are available from Kuryakyn . To deactivate the butterflies and have them remain open , disconnect the vacuum hose , make sure you plug the source fitting to avoid a vacuum leak and potential grief that may follow. Hope that helps | ||
| Rick_a |
I did some mods to my S&S aircleaner last night. After going to a K&N filter I found it wasn't sealing properly against the backplate due to a cast-in flange. It was letting some fine sand and dirt in which really bothered me as you could imagine. A little grease would help but it wouldn't be enough. So, I cut the flange out and cut down the cover mounts by 1/8" to achieve a totally leak free seal. Worked out perfect!  | ||
| Rick_a |
Hey Hoser...OEM's with carbureted ram-air CV's route a hose from the float bowl vent(s) to the mouth of the ram-air intake. Seems like a simple solution to me. | ||
| Hoser |
Looks good , however you really should quit biting yer fingernails. | ||
| Rick_a |
I don't bite them...I just hate excess material. | ||
| Ara |
Not a boob man, are ya?  | ||
| Rick_a |
There are always exceptions  | ||
| Daveblaster2 |
Questions, Will a 2000 M2 breadbox work on my 98 S3T? Has anyone homemade a Force type filter system? Whats the cheapest someone has spent for a filtration system anyway? |
