| Author | Message | ||
     Pnut |
Help. Bought forks from a 01 X1 to put on my M2. I'm looking to verify the showa fork model/number?. This question came from looking at the racetech site and they have 2 forks listed. Also how much oil does this fork hold? | ||
| Blake |
Someone? Anyone? | ||
| Dave |
Pnut: I don't know about markings on the Showa fork or model numbers...what do ya have on yours and where? The manual says Standard capacity 15.36 oz (450CC) Oil level Standard 3.15in (80mm) Min 2.36 (60mm) to Max 4.33 in (110mm) As measured from oil to top of outer tube Type "E" oil DAve | ||
| Hootowl |
Pnut, I just had my fork oil changed. The dealer said that there is no specific amount, you fill it up, then insert a special tool, which removes the proper amount, leaving the aforementioned 3.15" at the top. I probably would have attempted this myself, but I had some new springs put in as well. Good luck! | ||
| Dave |
I find the capacity most useful when purchasing oil...that's about it. If you're working in a dealership and have lots on hand, it really doesn't matter. DAve | ||
| Pnut |
Thanks for the info gentelmen, big help. The # I was refering to was from the racetech site. They call out a 41U model and a 40 mm model. This was the confusion. One more question type E oil = what weight? | ||
| Rick_a |
I've noticed a disturbing trend among sportbike posers in this area (central FL). People are raising their forks 1-2" in the trees to get the "proper stance" and make their bikes "carve" corners better. I always wondered why these guys rode so slow and found out that a lot of these bikes are really unstable at higher speeds. To lower a sportbike is a little lame, to lower only the front end significantly is plain stupid. I also had to laugh at all the guys I saw in Daytona this year riding pristine bikes with engine guards, sliders, bash guards, and wheelie skids...that were all equally scratchless and spotless. The biggest stunts I saw most of these guys doing is hitting the rev limiter in neutral. | ||
| Lee |
Ok dumb question but here goes.....I see a lot of the older tubers like '96-'98 running the "newer" swimgarm off say an X1. Does the newer one mate right up? If so, are there benefits to be had other than asthetics? Thanks! Lee | ||
| Henrik |
Lee; the aluminum arc is supposedly quite a bit more rigid. It's a fairly straight forward bolt-on - except for needing to clearance the mounting block a bit to allow full range of motion. You'll also need a new inner fender, well nuts. a few bolts etc. Henrik | ||
| Lee |
Thanks Henrik! Can the clearance issues be solved at home with a dremel or die grinder? | ||
| Henrik |
Lee; I had an independent shop do the work (at the time I was less brave about twirling wrenches  ), but it is my understanding, that as long as you're not too heavy handed it is indeed a doable home project. Henrik | ||
| V2win |
The axle bolt is different too. | ||
| Lee |
Henrik, would you be so kind as to post the pics of the ground part of the swingarm? If it's too hard to get to with the wheel on don't worry..I was just hoping they were easy pics. Thanks again...Lee | ||
| Captainkirk |
Lee-See Battle2win Vol.2 Issue 3 1998 pp 60 if you can find a copy. In a nutshell...yes. I'll quote Reg Kitrelle; "Here's what we think we know: The new swingarm will fit the pre-'99 S1, M2, and S3/S3T models.However, you need to use your existing WP shock. The new Showa shock has a different resting length. If you use it on the older frame, the swingarm will foul the mounting block." "Keep something else in mind. By using the new arm you'll transfer forces absorbed by the less rigid, older arm to the frame itself; there may or may not be a handling consequence to this" Hope this helps. ck  | ||
| Henrik |
Lee: It's actually the swingarm mounting block that needs to be trimmed a bit. AFAIR it's a little bit off a lower edge - but don't hold me to it. Not even sure where it is. I'd suggest mounting the swingarm up in the block - take it through the a range of motion and see where it hits. Was there an article about this in one of the Battletwin?? John, you're right. Axle is different - but I think it's just a bit longer and only needs an extra shim/spacer to fit. I'll take a look at the bike this weekend. Henrik | ||
| Firemanjim |
Your install may vary,just install swingarm and before installing shock run arm throughout swing it would see.If it contacts the mounting block apply die grinder.Axle will fit with a couple of washers as I remember--one for each side--or just have machine shop add a couple more threads.You can always take the time to polish swingarm before install.It looks great and I noticed better cornering stability. | ||
| Henrik |
I noticed better cornering stability. From just polishing it?? - Amazing  As for change in handling; I ran the S3 on track for a couple of seasons with the aluminum arm installed. Didn't feel anything odd. Henrik | ||
| Briansubsist |
anybody know how much you can lower a buell firebolt or lighting (should be the same) using the stock shock set up? or if there are any lowering kits yet available for these models? thanks so much for your help! | ||
| Cyclone1 |
Far as I know, you can't lower an XB unless you have a XB9SL or use the suspension off of it. Less preload doesn't change ride height any. Frank | ||
| Lee |
On the shock/new arc swingarm thread....I have the old recall Showa on my '97 S1. I read the article and it mentions that you have to have the WP shock. Being that was a few years ago...I'm wondering if anyone has fitted the new arc swingarm to the old Showa and if works? Thanks again. | ||
| Tripper |
Lee; on my 98 S1 which has the 99 swingarm... I used the original WP shock with good results for 20K miles. I have used the old Showa with good results. At rest it is longer and so the rear sits higher at rest, the most noticeable result being the bike leans over more when on the kickstand. When you sit on the bike the eye to eye distance can be set the same as the original shock so there is no handling change. I now have the "Short Showa" which is the shock included in the current recall kit K1400.C, and it also works well. Real well. Summary - use whatever shock ya got. | ||
| Henrik |
Keep in mind that a shorter shock will increase your rear ride height and change your bike geometry towards quicker turning/more twitchy. If you change preload in order to get the ride height down you're changing other ride properties. Best bet is get a shock that is the correct length with the proper spring rate. Henrik | ||
| Lee |
Thanks fellas...good scoop from all of ya! Lee | ||
| Lake_bueller |
What size is the star hex that is used in the swingarm bolts? Trying to save myself some guess work. Thanks | ||
| Lake_bueller |
I case anyone else is curious (or for future reference) T60 Trox is the size. | ||
| Lee |
Lake and all, How did you guys "prop" or suspend your bike when you toke off your swingarm? Lee | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Lee... I built a cradle under the motor. In order to accomplish that, you need to remove the muffler and rear shock. I put my cradle on casters because I'm removing the entire frame. This makes it easier to move things around the garage. Dennis | ||
| Henrik |
I went really low budget and put a set of cheap jack stands under the rider footpeg mounts. Works well for me for rear wheel and suspension work. I haven't done swingarm that way, and would probably add a couple of straps secured to the rafters for safety. Henrik | ||
| Bart02m2 |
Not to confuse things, but I'm getting a 98 S3 frame in a couple of weeks. I want to use the engine, tranny, swingarm, and front-end from my 01 M2 to build it out. In my case, should I use the stock "short" shock from the M2 or go find a new WP "long" shock"? | ||
| Zerotact |
Anyone have the lengths of the forks? How different are the forks from model to model, and year to year? |
