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Loki
Posted on Saturday, August 30, 2003 - 01:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I will see what I can do. Started raining so riding is out for the rest of today.
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Dan
Posted on Sunday, August 31, 2003 - 11:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anyone happen to know the tread size for the breather bolts.
Thanks
2000 M2
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Bluzm2
Posted on Monday, September 01, 2003 - 11:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dan,
If memory serves, it's a standard 3/4 NC bolt.
Just bring one to the hardware store and try a 3/4 nut.
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Snowdave
Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2003 - 01:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Help, I am losing a lot of oil out of either the crank or primary breather tube. I have stopped riding the bike. I did just upgrade to the XB rocker boxes. One guy suggested that the seal between crank & primary is blown out. Is there an easy way to determine this prior to disassembling the engine? If so, can I replace it by only removing the primary cover & alternator? Please help, I just spent two months painting this bike and it is now killing me not to ride it. BTW, the problem is intermittent. I have ridden it four times and it happened 2/4. Don't worry, I am keeping a very close eye on the oil level.

Dave
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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2003 - 02:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First figure out if it is the crankcase vent, or the primary vent.

If it is blowing fluid out the transmission vent, the seal between the crankcase and primary around the crank is an easy replacement. Check the archives for a link to an excellent writeup by Henrik, and if you don't want to wait or pay for the "special tool", use a split copper pipe section like I did.

If you are using sport trans or mobil 1 crankcase oil, you can tell easy which is leaking, the transmission stuff *stinks*.
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Dan
Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2003 - 02:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BluzM2

Thanks for the info,i want to replace the oem bolts with a stainless 90° bolt and high temp plastic push in hose routed to a catchcan.
Is there any reason why the oem bolts thread is that long.

Dan
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Hootowl
Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2003 - 03:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Engineering disclaimer: I have no proof of what I am about to say.

That said, I had tranny fluid spew all over my rear fender last summer. Happened two days in a row. I drained my primary thinking it had some water in it, and the heat caused it to boil out, taking some fluid with it. It was mixed with engine oil. I had recently installed a catch can. I believe the breather hoses were too long, and the volume of air in them prevented the crankcase from venting properly. I installed another T fitting in the line, ran another tube up to the airbox with a PCV valve in it. This presented a short path for the air to travel, and prevented air from coming back in, helping to create negative pressure in the crankcase. I have not had any more oil blow out the tranny vent. Was it a coincidence? Possibly. Take a look at the length of your breather lines, as well as their routing before doing surgery on your engine.

Jeff
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Bomber
Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2003 - 03:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dan . . . .I don't think they are quite 3/4 thread . . .. I just installed mine last night after some carb work, and I used a 3/4 inch socket on the head (which is an aftermarket banjo, but, still, the threads were smaller than the head)

as for length, I imagine it's because they also hold the carb on the bike?
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Bluzm2
Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2003 - 05:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dan,
I'll check as soon as I get home. I have a stock breather rold in my tool box.
Now that I think about it, I think Bomber is right. It is a 3/4 wrench. I'll clear it up as soon as I get home.

Brad
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Dan
Posted on Wednesday, September 03, 2003 - 08:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks guys,

I can't check it myself at the moment but i wanted to look around for the parts.
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Bluzm2
Posted on Wednesday, September 03, 2003 - 01:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dan,
Ooops! It appears to be a 1/2 in bolt not a 3/4th!

Brad
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Snowdave
Posted on Saturday, September 06, 2003 - 09:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, here is the cause of my problem.

Holy Busted Seal, Batman!

I will run the dealer and get a replacement, but what could have caused this? Is this normal on Sporty engines? I did just recently install a rotor and stator since my bike was set up without them when I got it (Yes, I know it was raced, that's why I bought it). Could I have caused this?
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Snowdave
Posted on Saturday, September 06, 2003 - 09:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BTW, thanks to the guy at the Buell factory last Saturday that suggested this might be the problem. He may have saved me a VERY expensive engine rebuild.

Dave
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Bomber
Posted on Tuesday, September 09, 2003 - 02:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, snow . . .I give up . . .what is that obviously failed component?
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Bluzm2
Posted on Tuesday, September 09, 2003 - 04:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pssst, I think it's the crank seal........

edited by bluzm2 on September 09, 2003
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Snowdave
Posted on Wednesday, September 10, 2003 - 09:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yep, crank seal. I am now awaiting the metal spacer and tool so I can perform the repair to Henrik's excellent instructions.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Wednesday, September 10, 2003 - 11:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Snow... if you don't want to wait, just go to Lowes and get a short copper coupling section, just a short section of copper pipe. It will be just a hair too small to fit inside the lips of the seal, but if you then cut it lengthwise it will open up enough to work perfectly. $2.

You will have to watch the seating depth, but it worked well for me. Debur and smooth the part of the edges that will hit the seal, and be sure you put the spacer thing in there first, though if you don't you can work around that also.
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Mbsween
Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2003 - 10:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Calling all who've done the XB rocker boxes on a tuber.

How did you route the hoses from the pvc valves? And what type of hose did you use?

I have 5/16" fuel line which is fat and ugly. I'm thinking I could use something less bulky, like vacuum tubing.

Also I have the forcewinder intake, and I was thinking about running the lines into the airbox, gotta do something with that hole. (Okay let the jokes fly!)

Last question, Jose's site recommends thread sealant. At the risk of sounding ignorant, what the hell is that? Same as locktite?

Thanks
Matt

edited by mbsween on October 09, 2003
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Bomber
Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2003 - 10:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Matt . . .. I believe Jose is refering to something that acts like teflon tape, except it's a really gooey semi-liquid (jar has a short brush built into the cap, alot like gaska-cinch or never-seize) . . . . available in the plumbing section of a hardware store near you
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Ara
Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2003 - 11:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nope, I don't think that's what Jose had reference to. There is a product for automotive use, made by the same folk that make locktite, that is designed to prevent fluid and gas from escaping through a threated joint. It's available at auto parts stores.
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Mbsween
Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2003 - 07:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks guys,
I'll take a look over at the parts store. Although nothing is leaking out (yet). I only put 33 miles on it today

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José_quiñones
Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2003 - 08:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

How did you route the hoses from the pvc valves? And what type of hose did you use?






3/8" Hose, Permatex Thread Sealant with Teflon, part #14A.

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Skid
Posted on Friday, October 10, 2003 - 03:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

HELP HELP HELP
My 1999 X1 was in storage for a year and seven months. I recently got the bike back on the road. The bike runs fine and starts on the first push of the start button every time. However, I get quite a bit of oil from the crank case breather if I use the bike at highway speeds. The bike never did this before I put it in storage. Any ideas? Anything anybody could send would help me out. Thanks }
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Road_thing
Posted on Friday, October 10, 2003 - 09:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Skid: You probably had oil seeping back into the crankcases from the oil tank while the bike sat in storage. If you topped off the oil (or changed it) before running the motor after a long period of storage, there's probably too much oil in it. Check the oil level with a hot motor; if it's overfilled, you'll see a lot of oil puking out of the breathers.

r-t
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Reepicheep
Posted on Friday, October 10, 2003 - 10:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Are you sure it is the crank case breathers? Those are the ones that come out the heads right by the carb, right?

If you are talking about the transmission case breather (comes out right behind the starter and gets routed to the tail section), it could be condensation that built up. It will boil off, though you should probably do a fluid change (both tranny and oil) after such a long storage interval anyway.

If it is the tranny case, it could be the crank seal as well... It would not suprise me. It is not a big deal to replace it, though you will have to pull the primary cover, then the stator, and clutch assembly (intact and as a unit).
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Mbsween
Posted on Friday, October 17, 2003 - 08:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jose,
Thanks for the post

looks like I used the same hose as you (5/16" fuel line) and routed sort of the same way.

I only had 2 2' pieces, so I ended up running down the frame and stopping just above the derbi cover. It still pukes pretty good, mostly water from the front, but oil/water mix from the rear cylinder Is that indicative of a larger issue?

Thanks
Matt
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José_quiñones
Posted on Friday, October 17, 2003 - 06:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I barely get anything anymore, only when the bike gets really hot sitting in traffic. Even that is nothing like it used to be.
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Mbsween
Posted on Friday, October 17, 2003 - 07:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's a crappy shot of where the breathers are now

you can see some puke on the derbi cover

x1-pukin
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Az_m2
Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2003 - 12:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Matt, do you get much oil on your left leg?
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Mbsween
Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2003 - 03:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Az,
shoot I get oil all over the place on the bike, but mostly it pukes at idle, hardly at all once underway. I left the breathers exposed to see how much puking there actually is.

You should have seen it when the crank-side primary let go. Of course that was the right leg

My friends refer to her as the X1valdez
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