| Author | Message | ||
     Fuscat |
hmmm anyone?? | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Fuscat, Is that the left side? If so, it may be from the kickstand. That's solid aluminum, pretty strong. I doubt it would cause probems but then again I'm not an engineer type. I'd probably use it. YMMV Brad | ||
| Road_thing |
Fuscat: I don't know about the strength issue, but I'm with Bluzm2, I'd probably use it, too. I do know that there is a filler product on the market that will supposedly stand up to powder coating--don't know the brand name and haven't got any personal experience with it, but I saw it on the rack at a local bearing supply shop. Comes in pint or quart cans, looks kind of like a body filler, only it's advertised as being metallic and powder-coatable. Good luck! r-t | ||
| Tripper |
I'd use it. Look into a new one before you bid. They used to be about $260, but have probably gone up in price since it is out of production now. | ||
| Fuscat |
Thanks guys. I shoulda bought at the buy it now price of $100 even. It is now @ $119.00 with 15 minutes to go and I just dont have that much. its a good deal but I cant right now..  sux. The guy even told me if I was unhappy with the damage seeing it in person he would buy it back. | ||
| Oz666 |
I am about to help Newfie change his trashed rear isolator(s) (`98 S1). I have a manual for MY `98 S3T and the `96-`97 S1 e-manual. Is anything different? Torques, bolts - that stuff. Dealer confirms S3 & S1 isolators (I have the kit for my bike - not in stock at the local dealer) are interchangeable, but he's a LONG way from home and I want it to be right.  Oz | ||
| Mikej |
Since you're already in this section of the Knowledge Vault I assume you've downloaded the Service Bulletin at the top of the page. I've heard indirectly that there is also some installation instructions included with the isolator kit, but I could be wrong on this point. http://www.americanthunderbike.org/techtips/ is also supposed to have some installation instructions on their site, as well as a few other sites. It might be worth a telephone call to one of the more Buell-friendly dealerships to ask about any concerns in the procedure. | ||
| Oz666 |
Thanks Mike, I was planning on doing the ATB remove the four swingarm carrier bolts method - just checking to see if there are any differences I should be aware of between the manuals I have and Newfies S1... Oz | ||
| Josh_ |
You have the new isolators with the large metal backing plate? The one you need to notch the pully cover for? Plus the new Torx head bolts? Make sure you measure the locator pin and cut it to spec. | ||
| Oz666 |
Yes, I believe I do. I bought the `01 update kit which should contain 2 NEW isolators, a belt guard and hardware. I was looking for my rail of Torx - I think they are at the garage with my bike (and all the spare parts). I will visually confirm the kit when I get there and log back on. No torque differences or anything? That's my only real concern. I have the service bulletins and I am aware of install methods and the .080"-.120" locator pin spec. I bet thats what did in Newfie's isolator as they have been replaced within the last 5-10K miles. Oz | ||
| Josh_ |
I set it to the 99 manual spec. Are you install new bolts/nuts to hold the swingarm block on? That's the only think I wish I'd done different. The manual recommends it. | ||
| Oz666 |
Thats the plan... Holding two big fugly rubber do-da's with a honkin' big bent metal washer attached. Also in the bag, a new belt (pulley) guard and a bag `o hardware marked "Z0010.CB-SUB" which contains, among other things, the biggest freakin' Torx screws I have ever seen! The bag has been taped shut but still contains the aforementioned Torx screws, 6 self locking (1/4-20?) nuts, a (5/16"?) lock washer, a hose crimp fitting & a black cable tie. How am I doin' so far? Oz | ||
| Oz666 |
OK, my biggest Snap-on Torx is not big enough, what size is the Torx??? Oz | ||
| Josh_ |
New isolator T60 Torx Old Isolator 1/2" Hex Rear axle 36mm socket vernier caliper (measure pin height) list of tools I needed to buy | ||
| Josh_ |
You don't have new bolts for the swingarm block yet. | ||
| Oz666 |
Yep, I have everything but the T60 and the bolts, (looks like the upper and lower bolts are different, will confirm) lock washers & flat washers - if the bag contents are complete... Oz | ||
| Josh_ |
>looks like the upper and lower bolts are different Correct, tho I don't know the specs. | ||
| Oz666 |
Thanx to Josh_ & everyone. It went quite smoothly and somewhat faster than I expected. Newfie had done the isolators before, and I would bet if he had been aware of the .080-.120" locator pin spec, he would not have had to do them now. The right isolator rubber had clearly separated from the bonded metal "washer" and the same process was starting on the left (~10K mi.). When dry fitting the new isolators, it was not possible to get them to seat with hand pressure. After trimming the pins to ~.118", both easily went in flush to the frame. So check your pins, kids. Oz | ||
| Blackcatracing |
Oz666: Thanks for the tip on the Torque size. We need to remove a swing arm but only have a 50 torque. Guess AutoZone get a visit in the AM. Thanks Tom | ||
| Loki |
Can anyone rattle of the torq spec for the front isolator bolt. Just put the S1 back together after having the heads off. I could not find it in the service manual. Thanks in advance Loki | ||
| Jim_sb |
I was out riding Sunday morning and suddenly the bike went from a smooth ride to a vibration filled ride. I pulled over and noticed that my front isolator mount is tearing apart (parallel to the mounting surface, along the center of the biscuit). After researching the archives I didn't find much info. I've got the FSM but noted several comments indicating there may (are?) better methods or info. re torque values. Questions: 1. Can I fix this myself? 2. Where can I find the proper procedure and torque values? 3. I've seen references to this being a recall item for some bikes, is it a recall for a '96 S2? FYI, my bike just passed 15,000 miles and the rear isolators still appear to be in good condition. I don't do many wheelies or any hard braking to speak of (although occasionally the front wheel will lift a teeny bit due to roll on acceleration or a quick shift). Can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks. | ||
| Buellmeister57 |
On my last oil change I used the K&N equivalent of the Ford FL1A. While washing my bike today I noticed the tie bar bolt had put a pretty healthy dent in the oil filter. It appears the engine is rocking forward. A visual inspection of the isolators revealed no tears. The bike is a 99 Cyclone with 23,000 miles. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. Buelling in West Virginia | ||
| Philip |
buellmeister57, i use a mobil one ford type filter and also get a dent in it. to make sure it does not wear a hole in it i use a tire iron and give it a dimple at that spot to make room for movement of the engine. | ||
| Grantg |
I replaced the orginal S3 airfilter with an S&S one and now the unsightly front isolator bracket is clearly visible. I have seen pics of the S1 bracket without the attachment point for the airfilter. Will this bracket fit on an S3 or does anyone have experience with just cutting off the offending part of the S3 mount? | ||
| Leeaw |
I just used a hack saw and cut the piece off, instead of going through the hassle of getting the S1 part. Very easy to do, just leave some meat there so it does not become a weak point. | ||
| Buelliedan |
S1s have the same mount as your S3. X1s have the mount without the airbox support. You can replace the mount with the X1 design for a really clean look or do as already stated and just cut it out with a hacksaw and round it off with a hand file or a dremel. | ||
| Djkaplan |
I glued a deer whistle to mine. Not very functional, but it looks kinda cool... edited by djkaplan on October 07, 2003 | ||
| Full_throttle |
I'm going to be replacing a fork seal on my 2000 M2. I was wondering if anyone has any info on Springs? Are there mods to help performance of the Stock M2 front shocks? I figure while I have them apart I may as well hop them up if I can. Not sure I can invest in an X1 front end. Thanks --Chris | ||
| Bomber |
springs entirely dependant on rider weight and riding style . . .. . at 205 (nekkid) pounds, the stockers were pretty pathetic . . . . I installed Traxxion 1.1Kg springs, put in 7.5 wt oil, and the difference is large . .. much much better | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Cris, How big a guy are you? The stock springs run out of preload pretty quick for us "bigger" guys. I weigh in around 220 (on a good day...), I replaced the stockers with 1kg units from Traxxion Dynamics. Cost about $100, order on Monday, install on Thursday. They are decent folks to do buisness with.. I used 7.5W Belray, I think is a bit heavy. I'm going to switch to 5W for next season. Check your tubes for rock dings. Even a very tiny one will cause a leak. I used 2200 grit wet/dry paper backed with a steel bar to smooth over the ding that caused my leak. While you are in there (depending on how many miles you have on the bike and your wheelie factor) you may as well change the upper and lower bushings. Less than $10 per side to replace. I left the valving alone for now. Ther are places that will do it for you (Traxxion, Racetech, etc) but I'm not sure how much difference there is when completed. All in all, a great way to get to know your bike better.. Good luck! Brad |
