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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Lubrication - Engine Oil, Transmission Oil, Bearing Grease... » Archive through July 30, 2008 » First 160 km oil change on '08 XB12Ss « Previous Next »

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Mesozoic
Posted on Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 01:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just breaking the engine in and going to dump the oil at 160km. Any issues with going with Shell Rotella T 15W-40 engine oil? I'm going to leave the primary oil alone until the 1000km mark for factory service. Also, has anyone used a System 1 reusable oil filter on these engines? Good idea? Possible?
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Bombardier
Posted on Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 01:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Get yourself a Filtermag.

This is a magnet that sticks to the outside of your spin-on filter.

Bought one and after 5000km cut it in half.

The amount of fine metal that it stops from getting to the engine is amazing.

The amount of metal that gets through the paper filter is scary!!!
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Sloppy
Posted on Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 02:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't like to use reusable oil filters as they don't advertise to be able to filter as well as the standard paper type media. So indications are that it doesn't filter as long as nor as well as standard oil filters.

In addition, the price difference between them and standard filters wind up being about a 10 year payback ($10 vs. $100 and changing annually). So there's no financial reason to use them.

The main advantage with them is that you can quickly see what's happening with the oil system during your oil change. But you can do the same by opening your standard oil filter as well.

Your oil choice is a very good selection. If you have the Diesel synthetic (Rotella or Delvac) available these would be better choices.
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Mesozoic
Posted on Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 09:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for affirming my oil selection. I'll stay away from the reusable filter then. Does anyone know the part number anyhow? My bike didn't come with an owner's manual (they are sending me one soon) and I don't see this info in the manual that's online. I'm going to stay away from synthetic for the duration of this season and switch after I've got about 6000km on the bike.
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Bombardier
Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 02:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't forget the filtermag!

They really do work!
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Sloppy
Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 03:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Forgive my ignorance, but isn't the outside of the filter media the unfiltered portion while that inside the media the filtered oil?

Since the filtermag is located on the OUTSIDE of the filter then it doesn't protect the engine of ferrous metals as it is on the unfiltered side of the oil. It would, however, prevent a buildup of such metals on the oil filter media and thus allow longer change intervals. Of course it would do nothing to the aluminum and brass components that are in the engine either.

Let me know if I'm wrong in my hypothesis.
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Bombardier
Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 06:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

From what I understand about oil filters the inside has the coarse filter and then the paper around it filters out the finer bits and then the oil retuns to the sump.

As the Filtermag is on the outside it gets the little metal particles that make it through the paper filter.

I am getting another one so both sides of the filter will be protected by magnets and will get all of the little metal bits.

Even if I do have it arse about the metal bits that get caught are out of the loop!
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Bombardier
Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 06:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

From what I understand about oil filters the inside has the coarse filter and then the paper around it filters out the finer bits and then the oil retuns to the sump.

As the Filtermag is on the outside it gets the little metal particles that make it through the paper filter.

I am getting another one so both sides of the filter will be protected by magnets and will get all of the little metal bits.

Even if I do have it arse about the metal bits that get caught are out of the loop!
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Sloppy
Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 12:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There is only one filter in the canister. The dirty oil flows into the outside holes, goes through the filter media from the outside in and then exits as clean oil through the center hole. The filtered oil goes directly to the engine, not the oil tank.

Hence, the magfilter only reduces ferrous build up on the filter media. There is, however, a mag filter made by magnefine that spins onto the INSIDE of the oil filter. This design does indeed clean the filtered oil prior to going into the engine unlike the filter mag.
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Mesozoic
Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 02:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do you guys know the filter part numbers I should be using for my XB12Ss? I can't find any info on cross-referencing it.
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Mesozoic
Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 06:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, I went out and bought a Bosch 3311... hopefully that works.
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Bombardier
Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 08:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the info Sloppy.
With both the items on it should run for just about forever.
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Sloppy
Posted on Friday, May 02, 2008 - 12:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It would've helped more if I had sent you the link...

http://www.emergingent.com/magnefine/force_field.h tm

Meso:
There's plenty of information from WIX, NAPA, K&N, Purolator, etc. to determine what filter part number you need. Check their websites first.
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Bombardier
Posted on Friday, May 02, 2008 - 09:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do you have one on your bike?

Does the filter clear the exhaust easily when changing it out?
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Sloppy
Posted on Saturday, May 03, 2008 - 01:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No, I don't use it -- there's been no history of poor filtration of these HD engines so I see no need for it. In other words, there's no problem so there's no need to fix it.

I do, however, use it on my Honda van which does have poor filtration history on its transmissions...
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Bombardier
Posted on Saturday, May 03, 2008 - 08:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sloppy,
From the metal filings I found on the filtermag I would suggest that there is a need to run a magnet in the filter.
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