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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Brakes » Archive through May 16, 2009 » Noicy front break on my M2 Cyclon « Previous Next »

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Jetne
Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2007 - 06:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do anyone know if there are any rep kit for the bolts (flowting) for the brakes? The breaks are great, but ratles a lott!! :-(

(sorry for bad englich... norwegian you know :-)
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Bad_karma
Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2007 - 11:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Eirik
I would get the updated disc or after market upgrade.
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Jetne
Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2007 - 12:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You mean a new one like these?

17023 - Brake Rotor, Front, 2000 Spec Buell OEM

95-02 Tube frame Front Brake Rotor, 2000 Spec Buell OEM part. Stainless steel rotor, improved carrier design with 9 drive buttons. Replace that pre-2000 rotor with one that doesn’t rattle. The OEM price on this recently over doubled. This used to be a phenomenal deal, the 6050 Wave rotor or 5109 EBC rotor may be a better value now.
Price:
$316.00

Add this item to your shopping cart or wish list below.
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Jayvee
Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2007 - 02:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What year bike do you have? Might be just the drive pins?

Did you see these two?:

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/B010-263557.pdf

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/B013-263560.pdf

(Message edited by jayvee on July 19, 2007)
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Jetne
Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2007 - 03:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My model is 1998 (first time left the shop 20.04.2001) all the recal are fixst! I watched the sites (thanks) but limited Englich knowleg makes me wonder... The outer ring on the breaks (the one that will be squesed by the break pistons) are mounted with disks, it is a bolt and nuts that fastens it! This is where the ratle came from! It may be possible to fasten it with tigt disks... american sport bikes suggest putting on a new rotor... But I have herd about a rep kit...
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Bad_karma
Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2007 - 11:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Eirik
Do you have pictures of the brake.
Joe
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Jetne
Posted on Friday, July 20, 2007 - 07:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


right side
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Jetne
Posted on Friday, July 20, 2007 - 07:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Left side
Left side
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Bad_karma
Posted on Friday, July 20, 2007 - 11:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Eirik
There is a procedure in the Service manual on how to test the lateral movement between the carrier and disc. It's hard to tell by looking but you have the older style rotor. Does the noise stop or lessen when you pull on the brake?
Joe
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Jetne
Posted on Saturday, July 21, 2007 - 05:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I pull the break it it total silent, and very "breaky" (good performance)!
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Blake
Posted on Saturday, July 21, 2007 - 04:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Be sure the noise is not from the brake pads knocking around inside the caliper. The newer versions have a retainer spring to prevent that.
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Jetne
Posted on Saturday, July 21, 2007 - 05:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No it`s the diskes I photoed! I will order a new disk, going to Boston in October :-)
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Bluzm2
Posted on Sunday, July 22, 2007 - 11:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That is the old 6 button rotor.
They are famous for being noisy and rattling.
Even if you replace the spring washers on the buttons, they soon start making noise again.
I think the biggest problem is that the spring (or wavey if you prefer) washers loose their tension due to the heat from the rotor.
My son's 96 S2 had one, I replaced it with the new stainless steel version. No more rattle!


Brad
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Jetne
Posted on Monday, July 23, 2007 - 01:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I`m Going to by a new rotor :-)
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Bad_karma
Posted on Tuesday, July 24, 2007 - 01:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Eirik
The noise is annoying; but both of my rotors had excessive lateral play and the new buttons didn't bring the first one back within specification. The good news is the newer nine button configuration seems to have solved this problem.
Joe
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98s1lightning
Posted on Tuesday, July 24, 2007 - 02:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That rotor was good for one thing after a few thousand miles, it was good for making it sound like a ducati's clutch. get the up dated one but remember to buy bolts for it also. There are two kinds, countersank and recessed, not sure what year came w/ what but I like the recessed better. Now for a huge piece of advise, I deal with a ton of metal products and take this for what its worth.......Buy 5 5/16's none locking any thread pitch nuts and have them WELDED to the original countersank bolt heads via the center, then use a regular wrench or socket for removal. Please don't use or even try to use an allen wrench of any make or model as you will just be wasting your time and they will break, good luck.
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Jetne
Posted on Wednesday, July 25, 2007 - 09:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think I will order this from American sports bike:
17023 - Brake Rotor, Front, 2000 Spec Buell OEM
95-02 Tube frame Front Brake Rotor, 2000 Spec Buell OEM part. Stainless steel rotor, improved carrier design with 9 drive buttons. Replace that pre-2000 rotor with one that doesn’t rattle. The OEM price on this recently over doubled. This used to be a phenomenal deal, the 6050 Wave rotor or 5109 EBC rotor may be a better value now.
Price:
$316.00

17024 - Bolts, Front Brake Rotor

95-02 Tube frame Front rotor bolts, for attaching 2000 spec OEM rotor (#17023). Grade 8 Button head Torx style, not flat head as on pre-2000 bikes.

NOTE:Price is Each, 5 are required per rotor, 5 are shown, but order 5 for mounting a new rotor!! Yes, the price is ridiculous, but that’s what Buell charges.
Price:
$4.85


Do you think it`s OK?
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Bad_karma
Posted on Wednesday, July 25, 2007 - 11:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Eirik
Al will take care of you. The price jump on the rotor is a killer. My next rotor will more than likely be a wave or other after market replacement just because of price. The bolts are cheap insurance and this is not routine maintenance. They should be there awhile. I would recommended a rebuild on the caliper while you have it apart.
Joe
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Bad_karma
Posted on Friday, July 27, 2007 - 12:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Eirik
Here are photos of the old and new style. The yellow bike has the new style and the Blue bike has the old style.
Joe

96 S1 w/new rotor design


99 S3 w/old rotor design
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Djkaplan
Posted on Friday, July 27, 2007 - 10:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"The price jump on the rotor is a killer. My next rotor will more than likely be a wave or other after market replacement just because of price."

I paid $140 for mine and complained to Al at American Sport Bike because the price had just gone up $20. He always did say it was a great price for the factory rotor... was he ever right.

I'm on my third rotor at this point, and at over $300 for the stock one... I'm going wavy the next time.
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Jetne
Posted on Saturday, July 28, 2007 - 01:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank`s a lot guys!! For great feed back:-)I have to think hard on this one! Maybe I am old stylich, but I think the wavy looks femi.... but maybe I`m wrong :-) The price 316$ are actually cheap in my country :-)I guess you can duble it if I had to go to locual store!
Joe!! rebuild on the caliper ?? The caliper was changed for short time ago!!
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Bad_karma
Posted on Monday, July 30, 2007 - 11:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Eirik,
If it was just rebuilt no big deal. Look to flush the fluid every year.
Joe
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Jetne
Posted on Saturday, August 04, 2007 - 06:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Joe I`l do :-)If you are on a rely long bike tour, come drink coffe with me in Norway :-)
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