| Author | Message | ||
     Kingwing |
Changed the oil/filter and primary/transmission oil today. I purchased my 02 M2 two weeks ago, it has just under 15k miles on it. When I removed the magnetic drain plug, it was covered with metal, some fine, some rather course slivers/flakes. During the last two weeks I have noticed that the bike really clunks or sometimes momentarily grinds(not always) when I shift it from N to first, especially when the bike is cold. Records that the PO gave me indicated that the oil had been changed regularly using HD sport trans. I filled both cases with Mobile 1 v-twin. Seems to be shifting smoother into first and N is easier to find. My question is whether the metal flakes mean that I am doomed to a major transmission failure soon, or if I am gentle with it and keep the oil clean do you think I can get some mileage out of it before disaster. The oil that I drained was pretty grey against the black oil pan that I use. How much metal do members get when they change the primary oil? The bike shifts fine, other than the clunk. Do you think there would be any benefit in changing the primary/trans oil in say, 500 miles, to see what it looks like? | ||
| Reepicheep |
There was always some metal on that magnet on my 00 M2, I would not worry too much about that part of it. The 02 should have the updated chain tensioner, otherwise I would tell you to check that. How was the belt tension? Set like the factory manual says? That could be trouble, switch it to "scary loose". Put a rod (I used a chunk of re-bar) through the back axle and use two cheap jack stands to get the rear tire off the ground. Put it in neutral. Slowly spin the back tire by hand with your ear next to the front belt sprocket, and listen for crunchy noises. Get back to us if you hear them  Make sure the primary fluid level, primary chain tension, ball and ramp assembly, and clutch cable slack is all set *exactly* by the book. Little things added up to make a big difference on my M2. Mobil 1 gear oil made a day and night difference for shifting for me as well, but it may mess with the insulation coating on the stator. Try the Formula Plus. The tranny on an M2 is scary easy to rebuild. Don't sweat it. | ||
| Kingwing |
thanks for the advice Reepicheep. Already adjusted the clutch( at the cable and internally per the manual). I will go ahead and check the belt tension. Why does the belt need to be "scary loose"? | ||
| Reepicheep |
At least in my 2000 M2 manual, the description for setting tension (as I followed it, maybe I was doing something wrong) left the bike in a position where when you hit a big bump, instead of bottoming out the suspension (a kind of bad thing) you bind the swingarm from moving any further with nothing but belt tension. Calculating out the leverage and inertial forces involved results in a staggeringly high load on the bearings involved, and the belt is strong enough to deliver it. It destroyed the roller bearings inside my 5th gear drive assembly, there are plenty of pictures in the knowledge vault. That is where i was going with the suggestion to spin the unloaded rear wheel and see if the front belt sprocket sounds at all "crunchy" or clicky. I *think* my 2000 rear swingarm and geometry were the same as yours, and I settled on sitting on the bike, reaching down, and being able to push the belt down so it just started to feel tension about the same time it was touching the swingarm. That was my definition of "scary loose". So long as the belt is not sawing the swingarm, looser is better. The *real* right way to do it is lift the bike, disconnect the shock, and move that rear swingarm through it's entire range of motion making sure it does not bind, then finding some way to reproduce that in future adjustments. Scary loose is easier, and I never jumped a tooth, and at close to 30K miles that original belt was still going strong (even after it had been drawn tight enough to crush roller bearings). | ||
| Reepicheep |
Oh, and the primary fluid *level* is critical to shifting quality as well. | ||
| Jackbequick |
The primary lube gets scary black because all the accumulated particles from clutch wear are in it. A lot of the metal particles you found are from the square tangs on the driving plates and the notches in the clutch basket. Normal wear and tear. I went through the same learning curve two years ago and Reep's hard earned lessons really paid off for me. I adjusted the belt as per the manual and it was too tight, I could hear and feel it too tight. I hit the KV and did the "scary loose" belt thing and it was perfect and caused no more problems. If you ever take it to a dealer and they adjust the belt "right", you want to immediately un adjust it. And shifting and clutch action was haunting me until I did the primary chain, then the clutch adjusting screw, then the lever freeplay in that order. And you *have* to back the lever freeplay adjuster on the cable housing way off (make the lever floppy at the bar) before you do the adjusting screw or it won't work out right in the end. The adjusting screw is a subtle adjustment, turn it CW a few turns to back it off too far, then turn it CCW with two fingers until you just feel the adjustment nut make light contact and go no further. Then turn it CW (back it off) 1/8th to 1/4 turn, no more, to set the freeplay. That leaves the bearing the adjusting screw rides in (like a throw out bearing) unloaded when the clutch lever is not pulled. Very important to keeping the bearing healthy. When you put the locking nut and spring in, you may have to turn the adjusting screw CW a little bit further to get the locking nut to drop into the hex recess. On the clutch lever free play you are adjusting length of the cable housing. First lengthen the housing to take all the slack out of the cable. Then pull and release the lever a few times to settle the clutch plates and springs. Then, back the cable housing adjuster off until you can pull the ferrule on the end of the clutch cable away from where it enters the clutch perch 1/16" or so. Use a firm grip and heavy pull there. With the bike started from cold, pull and release the clutch a few times. Then put it in 1st gear. That should give a clunk but no pulling. If it pulls a little you need to increase the cable housing length (turn the adjuster 1/8th or 1/4 turn at a time, a little goes a long way) until you get it. Take 1/2" and 9/16" wrenches with you on a ride and finalize the lever freeplay adjustment with everything well warmed up and it will be good for a long time. Jack |
