| Author | Message | ||
     Genesisclimber |
...but doesn't go anywhere- it stays in gear fine, but my engine just revs with no power reaching back wheel. I was was riding along on the highway in sort of stop and go traffic when the bike started to lose power- I had to rev it high just to get to the shoulder- I've never heard of a Buell doing this- any thoughts? I'm all stock, BTW- | ||
| Jackbequick |
Not the slightest pulling when in gear? And when it started to lose power, was the engine running okay and sounding normal? And increasing the RPM gave you a little more pulling power but nothing near normal? If your drive belt is in place, engaged, and moving with the rear wheel and those are all yes answers, it sounds like a slipping clutch or other driveline problem that is keeping power from getting to the rear wheel. If the clutch lever feels normal and it does the same thing (no pulling) in 2nd and higher gears too, I would pull the primary chain inspection cover and see if the primary chain is still in place. Then I'd pull the plug wires and hit the starter to see if the primary chain is moving and turning the clutch basket. From there you could start looking at the clutch, looks like time to pull the primary cover. Jack | ||
| Genesisclimber |
- Zero Power when in gear - bike stays in gear and runs when I let off the clutch and give here normal throttle - Engine revving and running normal - Belt tension normal - Clutch feels normal Primary cover is coming off this weekend >sigh< | ||
| Sparky |
Gene, check your front drive (belt) pulley. There was a batch of Buells that had improperly hardened or installed pulleys that resulted in shearing the splines in the pulley, resulting in exactly the symptoms you described. Most likely, if this is the problem, the splines on the shaft driving the pulley should be unharmed because its hardening is much tougher than the pulley's splines. This happened early in my '96 S1's life. | ||
| Jackbequick |
If that is your problem, that pulley is held on by that monster 1-7/8" nut (? with a LEFT HAND THREAD?). And the nut has a somewhat unusual and particular tightening process, including a very high torque spec, when you put it back. I've never removed that pulley but was contemplating it at one point. Was glad when I found the problem elsewhere. If I remember right, you can use a primary locking bar on the primary side and put the tranny in low gear to lock the transmission and then use an impact wrench on that big nut. I think there is a bearing and seal (or seals?) that it would be a good idea to replace while you are in there. Those are the bearing and seals that failed with over tightened drive belts (i.e., adjusted as per the service manual) and there is quite a bit of info in the KV about it. Jack } | ||
| Bomber |
If you put the bike in gear, and use an impact on the big old nut, be aware that you are transferring shocks to the Alternator Rotor, which has magnets glued into it (the hip bone is connected to the thigh bone, and like that) now, some have reported no problems in doing this, other have had the magnets come adrift -- the new rotors have something along the lines of "No Shocks" engraved in em -- this is one time I'd pay attention to what the factory has to say ymmv, as always | ||
| Genesisclimber |
Yikes- I've consulted my service manual and it is consistent with the information here- I have to be extra careful this weekend and not compound the problem! | ||
| Jackbequick |
Good point Bomber. I think I remember my M2 service manual being a little vague about exactly how you were expected to lock up the driveline after you put it in low gear. I did not get around to doing it but it seemed me that the next step would have to have been locking the primary drive but the manual did not say that. It was just my conclusion. Jack | ||
| Bomber |
locking the primary drive DOES work -- the manual also mentions a tool that locks the drive pulley to the crankcase (not an option for me since the chain conversion took place -- I use a block of hardwood between the chain and sprocket now | ||
| Jc000 |
Hey I had the same issue just the other day with my 2K2 M2, shifted into first, neutral light off, let out clutch and it just sat like it was still in neutral. Does this sound like a warranty issue? I don't even have my owners manual yet and I don't really know what I'm doing anyway. I'm thinking about bringing it by the shop, should I have them look at pulley? On a possibly related note, I have a leak around where the shifter "attaches" to the transmission. There was about a 2 inch spot under my bike after a week of sitting. Something related or something else to be concerned about? | ||
| Reepicheep |
If you have the extended warranty, that sure sounds like a warranty issue to me. Thats an odd symptom, what with the neutral light going off. Was it a one time thing, or a chronic issue? (Message edited by reepicheep on December 03, 2006) | ||
| Jc000 |
Hey Reepicheep, it happened more than once, yet also had worked properly since then. I haven't rode it too much since it first happened, not sure how safe it is. |
