| Author | Message | ||
     Henrik |
A few years ago I ran a wire from the battery up front on the S2 to a terminal block to power the heated grips. Can't remember what gauge I ran, but I'm figuring it'll be too small for my new, planned additions: PIAA aux lights, HID headlight (maybe), future electronic gadgets (the Garmin Zumo is looking mighty nice) and so on. I figure I would run the wire directly off the battery instead of off a breaker as it is currently set up. I'd run the wire through a relay switched from the wire I'm using now. The relay would then prevent draining the battery if I forget to unplug/turn off any of the gadgets. A quick search pulls up 10 and 14 gauge wire in the car aftermarket. I'm thinking 14 gauge. Enough or not enough? I'm thinking I should run ground/negative up front from the ground strap rather than rely on ground on the fairing stay where I have it now. Yes/no? What say the electrical wizards? Thanks Henrik (I did find our previous thread on the topic, but no specific gauge was mentioned) (Message edited by Henrik on July 30, 2006) | ||
| Jackbequick |
I just did some wiring on my Dyna and was looking at the numbers on wire sizes and amperage draws here: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm In the table, the "Maximum amps for chassis wiring" figures there are appropriate for what we're doing and also very much on the conservative and safe side. The calculator below the table lets you calculate the voltage drop for the length of the run and the load. If you have the rated watts or max draw figures in amps on the pieces you plan to add, you can probably get it right on the first try. You can reduce voltage drop by over sizing conductors. I used marine grade (tinned) copper 16/2 (in a sheath) for a 24" or so run to put power in a tank bag. I'll eventually have connectors in the bag for several low draw devices (GPS receiver, PDA used for GPS, XM radio, cell phone charger). For the small quantities needed, I get the marine grade wire at a West Marine store. By that table the I used wire is good for 22 Amps, the highest load will be about 9 to 12 Amps with everything at full draw (a very unlikely occurrence). I took the power off of the positive battery terminal (using a relay as you describe) and put the ground on the battery grounding lug. The relay is activated with the key in the Accy on position so that foolproofs it. I used an inline 20A fuse on the run from the battery to the relay, the relay is rated at 30A, the wire at 22A, and I don't plan on using more than half of that capacity. Most of my bad luck with electrical wiring over the years has been due to stupidity, I hope that doesn't happen again. Jack | ||
| Henrik |
Oh, so you want me to actually think about this - hmmm  Thanks for the link - great info. PIAA aux lights: 2 x 55W = 110W = 9.2A Heated grips: 36W = 3A HID headlight: 35W = 3A Zumo 550 GPS: ?? Plasma screen w. surround sound ...  just kiddin' Watts = Volts x Amps right ... So right now I have planned for 15 Amps at full draw, so 14 AWG or even 16 AWG should be plenty. Given I have about a 4 foot run to the terminal block 14 AWG would give me a 5% or 0.622voltage drop. Cool, thanks Jack  Speaking of wire gauge. Anyone know what gauge wire comes off the Stator? Henrik | ||
| Jackbequick |
All right, you're almost ready to go to work! Thinking you've got it all figured out is a great way to start. At least until Mr. Murphy shows up. The Zumo is 15w max. @ 13.8v DC per the specs at Garmin. 1.5 Amps or so. I don't have a Buell wiring diagram anymore. My FXD manual has some great info on the wiring but doesn't mention the wire size on the alternator run. You could probably measure it's O.D. and compare it to another known wire if nothing else. I noticed that my FXD service manual has some great info on working on the AMP Mulitlock and Deutsch connectors that I don't remember being in the Buell manual. Great details for taking pins out, replacing them, crimping them on, etc. I tested my XM receiver and GPS receiver and PDA display today. That's all working good. It looks like I can leave the antennas in or under the transparent case on the top of the tank bag and get good sky view anywhere. I sort of closing in on something that will let me remove it all from the bike quickly and walk away with it. I'm using a Tour Master Cortech Mini Tank Bag. Now I need to work on being able to hear the radio. Looks like something like a set of Shure e2c isolating ear buds is about the only option if you want to both muffle the outside noises and hear the radio. Jack | ||
| Henrik |
Ah yes, Mr. Murphy ... he's visited me before Thanks for the Zumo specs. I looked at the page for the gadget but didn't see any power draw numbers. I'll take another look at the manual for more wiring info. My S2 manual is more like my old FXRS manual was than what I've seen in later model manuals. Thanks for the idea. Sounds good with your wiring so far. As for wiring your tank bag, have you seen the company that makes power plug mounting plates for exactly that purpose; http://www.powerlet.net Expensive though. In-ear plugs wouldn't work for me I think. Too much pressure and the few I've tried pull out when I put the helmet on. Haven't gotten to the point where that's a problem though. Henrik | ||
| Jackbequick |
Thanks for the lead on the Powerlet tank bag connector. The bag I have has a pass through for a wire and I'm using a less sophisticated approach for now. I am using the SAE connectors inside the bag for now. Jack | ||
| Bomber |
Jack -- have you tried Etymotics ER6 earbuds? I've had some good luck with em -- decent sound (hey, with my trashed hearing, durned near anything sounds good to me), confy (my hears don't like much of anything) and don't break the bank Henrik -- i didn't measure em, but the wahrs coming outa the stator looked to be 12/14 guage -- course, I was only looking at the insulation, which can through an estimate off considerably -- I deep sixed the wires from the failed stator I removed in June, wait for it, last garbage pickup day, so I can't check em for ya -- corry | ||
| Henrik |
Thanks for thinking of it Bomber. I'll measure once I get things apart. You know junk is the stuff you throw out the day before you need it ... Henrik | ||
| Bomber |
yeah (hanging head in shame) I know -- the good news is, if anyone has a dead cat, and needs it swung, I now got some room in the E-Lab to do it in! | ||
| Road_thing |
I hope the A-bone is still there...  rt | ||
| Jackbequick |
Bomber, The Etymotics look good too, similar specs and price to the Shures. The Shure e2c's are on the way for about $76 with shipping thanks to eBay, that's against a MSRP of $109 so that's not too bad. Somtimes I get sticker shock when I look at the prices of good stuff. So I buy junk two or three time and then buy the good stuff that I should have bought to begin with. Jack | ||
| Tattoodnscrewd |
Henrik, One thing to keep in mind on the wiring, err on the side of larger as opposed to smaller or right on in some cases. I spent a few years doing custom stereo installations and a few years going to school for electrical engineering. As far as the wiring goes, it will not hurt to have a bit larger size .. if 12 or 14 would both work, go the route of 12 ga. and keep your grounds as short as possible, grounding right to the battery is optimal but if that's not possible, keep the ground less than 2-3 ft. In a car scenario, it was always 3 ft or less, on a bike I am certain you can run a much shorter ground. It also wouldn't hurt to run your ground one size larger than the rest. You've got the right idea running everything extra off a relay. One last thing I'll add, keep everything extra that you are running on it's own circuit instead of say tapping off another component, running right off the battery is a great idea, and then have your relay triggered by whatever switch you install for the extra lights, or add another fuse to the box, there are a couple extra spaces there to work with. It sounds like you've got it all well planned, just wanted to give you a few things to keep in the back of your mind. Brian | ||
| Henrik |
Thanks for the info Brian. Good idea about erring on the safe side of wire sizing. As for wire length, to match the purpose I'd want to run the wiring up front to the fairing bracket - that'd add up to 2 - 3 feet. Grounding the main feed directly to the battery is no problem, but it'd take 2 - 3 feet of wire to get there. No extra fuses on the S2, breakers only - old school don'tcha know I was thinking I'd power the relay for the accessory wires from one of the breakers to make sure all accessories turns off with the key switch. I'm going to add an in-line fuse to the accessory feed wire. For the aux lights I'd power another aux light relay from the high beam. Thanks again for all the info - electrical stuff is still close to "black arts" to me - magic smoke not escaping and all that Henrik | ||
| Tattoodnscrewd |
Ahhh .. old school, then wiring off breakers will work.... or you could install your own fuse box right off the battery just for your extras, I don't know who off hand sells em, but they are out there, and not too badly priced .. could probably pull one from a crashed non old school tuber ... or instead of being all complicated, ignore me and just do what ya planned - as it will work just fine | ||
| Bomber |
A-bone won't leave, Thang -- it's the missus' ride, and she's had it longer than me . . . . . .. ;-} |
