| Author | Message | ||
     Roadrunr |
Anyone: I need to know how to hard wire a 12v helmet cam into my bike. All I know about electricity is, that it hurts when the numbers get bigger 110, 220,....etc could I run it through the fuse box or go directly to the battery? Any help would be appreciated. Thanx, Steve | ||
| Hootowl |
Steve, I would go to the battery. I've made an accessory harness tied to the battery so I don't have to splice into the bike's wiring to add anything. Makes it easy to remove as well. Jeff ...and you'd have to be dripping in salt water to get shocked by 12 volts. | ||
| Mikej |
Roadrunr, I ran a pair of hot and cold wires from the battery up to the front of the M2 then tied them into a terminal block that is mounted to some brackets that are attached to the aluminum dash plate that I tapped and screwed into the edge of. Needed power up there for aux. lighting and radar detector. Hides all right behind the flyscreen. Then just fuse or circuit breaker from there to your camera. | ||
| Buelliedan |
The cleanest way to wire it would be to get one of those quick release harnesses that they sell for the Battery Tenders or heated vests. Any bike shop would have them. Already has the proper size terminals for the battery and then when you aren't using the camera you will only have a small pig tail left on the bike. | ||
| Bomber |
MikeJ try hot water for plexiglass forming . . . . . . | ||
| Bull |
Help needed... I need to know the number of impulses per wheel rotation the speedometer sensor delivers on my M2'99?? I'm thinking of fitting a digital instrument and I need programming parameters... Hope someone can help me out;-) Thanks in advance/ Jonas | ||
| Roadrunr |
Thanks for the info. guys | ||
| Blake |
Bull, The speedo sensor is driven by the tranny output shaft speed which is off from rear wheel rotation by the factor of the final drive ratio. For export model "international" bikes that would be a ratio of 55/29 or 1.89655 pulses per rear wheel rotation. The domestic ratio would be 61/27 or 2.25926 pulses per wheel rotation. | ||
| Hootowl |
Blake, I was going to say the same, but I wasn't sure if the sensor puts out one pulse per rotation, or many pulses per rotation. It depends on the number of notches in the shaft the sensor is sensing. I stuck my finger in the hole (one of the many times I've had that particular part out) and felt a notch. I thought it a spectacular coincidence that the notch just happened to wind up right under the hole, and I thought it more reasonable that there were more than one notch. (more pulses per revolution) But I've never looked it up, nor have I looked in the hole with a light. Bull, You should verify that there is one notch in that shaft, then Blake's numbers are good. If there are more, you'll have to multiply the answer by the number of notches. | ||
| Reepicheep |
It picks up on 5th gear, one pulse per tooth. | ||
| Bull |
Thanks Guys, I think it is like Reepicheep suggests! The reason for this is that I know that big twin Harleys have 68 pulses per wheel rotation... I'm running US rear sprocket and Europe front sprocket. So I probably need to know how many teeth there are on the 5:th gear and then calculate via the information Blake provided, only updated with: 61/29 equals 2,1034 if I'm not mistaken.. I still need help with the number of impulses per front sprocket rotation (that should eliminate the final drive ratio)! If I take the number of impulses times the final drive, I should have the number of impulses per wheel rotation, right? Im not that good with maths.. please correct me if I'm wrong;-) Thanks again /Jonas | ||
| Lornce |
Buellers What Know, Have just imported a '96 S1 to Canada from America. It's snap red T-Stormed and cherry, I love it.... But I've gott'a get it up to speed on recalls before I can have it reg'd in Canada. Received the requested letter from Buell/HD in Milwaukee (good of them to be so helpful especially with a second owner: very impressive customer concern/support) detailing the need for a different turn signal flasher unit. I'm guessing it's the type that's sensitive to resistance and changes cadence when one of the elements blow. Anyhow, does anybody have a generic number for a suitable flasher unit that's available anywhere and save me a trip to an HD shop (the nearest one's 40 miles away through the worst traffic in all of Canada which is as bad or worse than anything LA has to offer) with the bike on a trailer, which'll involve a friend with a hitch...etc...etc... Need to have it in place before taking it to be verified fit to proceed to a safety check which will verify it fit for registration... Whew! It's a labour of love.... but still. Lornce | ||
| Kahuna |
hey lornce, do you have pictures of your new beauty? do share! | ||
| Lornce |
There's one in the camera taken yesty in the snow. How 'bout pics of yours?!? | ||
| Blake |
Lornce, I'll snap a pic of mine tomorrow and post it fer ya. | ||
| 99x1 |
"anybody have a generic number for a suitable flasher unit" I think it is a DOT requirement that if a bulb opens/shorts the flash rate slows/speeds to indicate this. Maybe someone has the flasher recall (#0808 affecting bikes '96 to '98)that shows the correct flasher? The flasher on my '99 X1 says: Guilera / Made in Spain / 12v 20W / Electronic Flasher . North American auto flashers (IIRC) are made for 27W bulbs and likely won't pass CDN inspection. John | ||
| Bull |
Someone... please... help! I still need the answer on the above Q.. (if anyone can help me) Thanks in advance /Jonas | ||
| Reepicheep |
Bull... could be tricky. We know the drive ratio for 5th, and the speedo sensor picks up one pulse per tooth on 5th gear, so that much should be straight forward. But I don't think we know the actual relationship of the number of teeth on 5th gear relative to the other gearing reductions in the system... so I can't think of an obvious way to easily calculate it. It is probably possible though, but might take some time on the milk crate to hit all the details. You could also just grind it out empirically. Get / borrow a cheap little LED logic probe (lights red for logic high, green for logic low), it MIGHT let you "watch" the pulses. Then push / idle the bike for a fixed measured distance, and count the blinks. You could also put the rear wheel on a track stand, accelerate the bike to a fixed speed, and use an o-scope to measure the frequency (which would give you the number of pulses at a fixed speed, which you could then use to calculate the ratio). You might be able to pull the speedo sensor, get the rear wheel off the ground, and use a feeler guage or a pinkie or something to feel (count) the teeth as you make one sprocket rotation by hand by turning the rear wheel or front sprocket (with belt removed). You might be able to look at the transmission power flow diagram and calculate the ratios there as well by counting the teeth on the gears between 5th and the sprocket. | ||
| Kahuna |
lornce ... i'm taking delivery in a week or so. the bike is held up for parts, race kit/bar-end mirrors. will post as soon as i have it. but you could always check out my current pride and joy, just click my profile! i'm hoping to come out to the feb 22 tech day, maybe i'll meet ya then. cheers, k | ||
| Bull |
Thanks a lot Reep, I'll probably see if I can find out how many teeth there are on the 5:th gear... It has to be a way to calculate this properly! Maybe it's worth to have a try through Buell customer service... Again, thanks a lot for activating the "little grey ones" for me;-) I'll let you know if I manage to get the info! /Jonas | ||
| Xtopherj |
ladies and gentlemen, i recently had what i thought to be a burned out headlight bulb that has since turned into an electrical nightmare. about a week ago my headlight stopped working and the hi-beam indicator came on. no problem, i'll just replace the bulb, right? wrong. when i took the headlight bucket apart to replace the bulb the coupler on the back of the bulb was all kinds of melted and fried. and the damn bulb still worked! so, instead of buying the whole bucket assembly (you can't just buy the wiring pig-tail) i simply bought a three holed coupler and replaced the wiring into the new coupler. now, the hi-beams work like a champ, but when the lo-beams are on, i get a faint light in the guage indicator bezel, and the light doesn't seem to be very bright. i've checked for shorts everywhere i can think of, and can't seem to figure out what the problem is. also, when i switch the ignition to the "P" setting i only get lights in the speedo and not the tach. i don't know if this is a related problem or simply a coincidental quirk. any insight would be greatly appreciated. cj | ||
| 99x1 |
"my headlight stopped working and the hi-beam indicator came on" The power for the headlight goes to the handlebar switch, and then goes out to the high or low bulb filaments. So, IMHO, if the high beam indicator works, the low portion of the hi/low switch is bad, or the passing switch is stuck on. The wire colours of a generic headlamp socket probably don't match the Buell (ie Brown is ground on Euro sockets vs Black on American). Good Luck; John | ||
| Hootowl |
The space left for the wire as it exits the headlight shell is very small. Mine rubs on this little bracket that is welded to the steering head when I move the handlebars and has worn through the outer skin of the bundle. Good thing to keep an eye on if you're having headlight issues. | ||
| Cliffb |
Gents, I'm strongly considering the purchase of an M2 to go with my 883R Sportster. I found a very nice 2000 M2 with less than 2000 miles for around $5500. I'm wondering: 1. Good price? 2. Are the tach kits still available and what is the part #? 3. Anything else I should look for? Thanks Cliff | ||
| Ptown |
Hootowl I have redrilled the hole in the headlamp shell about a inch higher en a bit to the left if you are on the bike.That cleared the problem. ptown | ||
| Mikej |
Cliff asked: 1. Good price? 2. Are the tach kits still available and what is the part #? 3. Anything else I should look for? 1. Fair. Depending on where you're located you might do better, or not. 2. Some dealers have the plastic dash tach kit in stock, a very few have the older aluminum dash plate tach kit still in stock which I like much better. 3. A place to park your 883R. You probably won't be riding it much after you get the M2. You also might get a better response by posting this in a different section than in the Electrical category.  | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Cliff, The tach kits are a bit on the spendy side. Every once in a while you see one on Ebay, I recall seeing one ther recently. It's a piece of cake to get the parts and do it yourself. Quite a few of us have done it that way. You will love the M2... Brad | ||
| 99x1 |
My winter pastime is playing with microcontrollers, and I set up a circuit to make the Buell tach read voltage - Tach picture. Cost is about $8 US (12F675 micro, LM78L05 regulator, IRLZ24 FET). One has to mentally add a 1 in front of the displayed number (ie 14 volts reads 4, 15 volts reads 5 etc..). Also thought of another program that would read the speedo pulse as well, and display the current gear on the tach (ie 1st gear would show 1, 2nd gear show 2, etc..). Was also thinking of counting the speedo pulses in one track lap, and then showing a relative indication of time (ie slower lap would show lower on the tach, or something...). Any other ideas what could be done? | ||
| Lornce |
"Any other ideas what could be done?" Ermn... Yea sure, John. Can you configure my tach to remind me when it's time to visit your wife's sister? Hahahaha! No seriously, ummn, I think you've got the tach thing covered pretty good John. You guys oughta' pay close attention to this 99X1 guy. He's a genius. Lornce | ||
| Rick_A |
Can you turn my tach into a Flux Capacitor? |
