| Author | Message | ||
     Firewhirl |
After riding for an hour on the highway I got off my exit, as I’m pulling into the work parking lot, Check engine light comes on, started to run rough and then stalled, battery went dead, left me stranded. I jump started the bike it ran okay but was almost stalling for about four mins, then went completely dead. I installed a brand new OEM battery. Rode for about 1 hour, same thing happened again. Recharged battery, reads 13 plus volts. I removed the sprocket cover inspected all the connections for the cam sensor, stator, volt regulator, etc. Found one of the sensor wires, the black with white strip (connector with green, red, black wires) had rubbed thru and was grounding. Repaired it with tape. Test performed: Stator: Unplug connector 46 Checked ohms with meter, reading was zero on pins 1,2,3 Checked resistance with meter reading was 2 across pins 1,2,3 So far the readings are positive values showing stator good. Volt regulator: With connector 77 plungged in, touch test light to each pin. Light does come on when checking red wire..according to the manual if test light comes on with any pin volt regulator is bad. Now I had one more test to run on the stator, checking AC out voltage. I turned the ignition key on, hit the starter switch....blamo nothing nada zero starter noise. Dash lights come on, fuel pump comes on then goes off as it should. But starter does not turn on and spin, makes zero noise......this pisses me off because I just had the one test left to do. Now I’m dealing with a starting problem too. Have yet to check any fuses for the starter issue. Questions: Could a bad regulator cause not only a charging system problem but also prevent the starter from turning over? I’ll opened the primary chain adjustment cover on left side. Took s good sniff and it smells burnt but not super overwhelming like some say it does when the stator is bad...could be my stuffed sinus cavity not allowing the smell to really hit me. So is the regulator actually bad? I ask this because I would expect the light to come on touching the red wire, it a POSITIVE wire after all. When the volt reg goes bad does it short out therefore allowing current flow thru the red wire...test is conducted with ignition off. Am I missing anything here? What other test could I perfom with out having the engine running. Without the engine running I can’t do a simple stator AC output volt check... I know it should be around 32 Volts.. also can’t put a volt meter across pos and neg on battery while engine running to see if voltage goes up to around 15 volts. | ||
| Fullpower |
stator output is AC, and should be anywhere around 18 to 22 volts per 1000 rpm. if your stator was not short to ground it is quite likely OK. snug up the battery cables, check the grounds, be sure side stand switch is removed and thrown in trash bin, very easy to operate starter with a short jumper wire from big post on starter to the small switch terminal. just make sure trans is in neutral first. good luck. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Ohms is resistance, so I am not sure what the second set of measurements are. Check ohms pins 1<->2, 2<->3, 1<->3 and make sure they are all some very low ohm (which will look remarkably like the ohms of your test leads when shorted)  Then check the same reading 1<->Frame, 2<->Frame, 3<->Frame and make sure they are all infinity. Or / And do the AC check with the figures suggested by Fullpower (he knows of what he is winding), and you know for sure the state of the stator. Also, charge the battery... if I am understanding what you did, you never got the battery charged back up. Maybe you just used up the last of it's charge diagnosing. And to all those that recommend just replacing the battery at the first sign of electrical trouble.. neener neener neeeeeener! (Note: I am self rightous because I replaced my battery at the first sign of electrical trouble and it turned out to be the stator ). | ||
| Djkaplan |
You're doing better than I am. My battery is not charging so I went throught the step-by-step procedure outlined in the shop manual to check the electrical system. After the first day of head scratching, I came to the conclusion that my brand new multi-meter must be bad and my 13 year old battery charger must have broken down. The maintenance guys at work confirmed I was right, but this doesn't bode well for actually fixing anything... then again, this is the first thing that's ever gone wrong on my 6 year old 30,000 mile M2, so it's all still gravy. | ||
| Firewhirl |
yeah sorry about that ohms is resistance is correct. I did check that and tested for continuity which showed no continutity across all stator sockets, according to manual that means stator is not grounded. Replace battery because it was original battery from 2003. Yes i did recharge the new battery fully after it went dead. starting could be kick stand switch, it has given me problems before but at that time the starter at least spun the engine over. For AC output check manual says run engine at 2000rpm, AC output should be 32-40 volts AC. Approx 16 to 20 volts per 1000rpm Well i can't check it if the starter won't even spin...  How can i do the voltage output load test without a load tester? | ||
| Reepicheep |
If resistance (ohms) is near zero between any pin and ground on the wire coming from the stator, then the stator assembly is toast. If resistance (ohms) is above just a few ohms between any two pins coming from the stator, the stator assembly is toast. None of the above would explain the bike not being able to start on a charged battery. Neither would a bad voltage regulator. My next step would be to check the starter relay or sidestand switch. | ||
| Thepup |
I just had the same problem,ended up being the voltage regulator plug.Mine looked ok but when I twisted it around,it started charging.I have also had a wire break inside the insulation,that was a fun one to find. | ||
| Firewhirl |
Finally got the starting issue resolved. Stator: At 2000 engine rpms AC output voltage on pins 1and2 is 2.5 volts, pins 2and3 32 volts, pins 1and3 32 volts. Really I could have just performed this simple test first and not the others and found the stator to be bad...BooHoo! Also ran the meter across POS and NEG on the battery. I can see the volts reading slowly going down...13.20....13.19.....13.18.....13.17..Iturn the bright light on and it goes down faster. All my vehicle repairs are going thru the roof this month because I just don't have time to fix all of them at once. Vette needs clutch it slips constantly as I go down the road and needs inspection already got one ticket for that in the last two days of driving it, blazer is pissing out anitfreeze and my primary vehicle I use to commute my XB is also down for the count. Thx to those that responded |
