| Author | Message | ||
     Ara |
Max, do you have the new/beefier tensioner or the old design? If you have the old design, now would be a good opportunity to change it. It's not hard. Also, I'm pretty sure that there should be a jam nut on that. Somebody check me! | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Max, There should be a jam nut on the primary adjuster bolt. It looks like a nylock nut with the nylon exposed. This side goes toward the case to seal and lock the bolt. Also you MUST check to be sure you have the new style adjuster. Many of us have checked ours only to fine out they were the old style and already cracked. The whole thing will cost less then $25 not counting the beer. Very easy fix and could save much problems. Only thing to really watch for is the shifter seal. Make sure you apply a wrap of tape on the shift shaft splines or you WILL mess up the seal. Browse back through the archives, you will find info from others who have gone before you! Brad | ||
| Jasons1 |
Hey guys. I recently had to replace my clutch cable, and now am leaking oil out of my primary where the actual cable housing goes into the metal part that screws into the primary case. Sorry for the lack of better, official, terminology, but I hope you all get what I'm saying. I've taken it apart twice, and made sure that the O ring is properly installed by the threads where the cable actually goes into the primary case, but am still leaking. It only leaks when on the sidestand, which makes sense due to the fluid level, but I'm seeing a puddle twice the size of a quarter every morning. Any help that you guys could give would be appreciated! - Jason Ride safe! | ||
| Blake |
Jason, Sounds like your primary/tranny might be over-filled our that you have too much oil in the cable and it is dripping out. | ||
| Road_Thing |
Jason: If there's any damage to the clutch cable housing or the plastic sheath covering it, oil will seep out. I use heat-shrink tubing on the bottom couple of feet of my clutch cable, and secure it at the lower end with a zip tie. That keeps the oil in. r-t | ||
| Maximum2 |
Sorry guys been "out of town" I dont know if I have the new tensioner or not but I'm ordering it and putting it in "just in case". Yes the jam nut is there, but I dont think its adjusted correct, will have to do the four position test. Right now it sounds like a blower whine coming from below. Not good | ||
| Blake |
Maximum2, The jam nut should be substantially tightened against the case. If the adjuster bolt is backing out, the nut is not properly tightened or the case threads have been stripped. | ||
| S320002 |
Have any of you XB guys had your primary cover off? I checked the XB parts book the other day and found the part number is different from the "updated" tensioner. The picture in the parts book is pretty crude but appears to be the same basic design. I would be interested to know what the difference is. Greg | ||
| Tim |
OK, Heres the story. I arrived home after a round trip from Minneapolis up to Aerostich in Duluth(bought a pair of those combat touring boots). Pulled into the driveway, flipped down the kickstand and dismounted. My wife was in the driveway, so I say "Hey, check out the new boots!" She says "They're ugly" I say something about form following function, then look down and notice my left boot is wet. I look over at my bike and there is tranny lube literally pouring out where the bolt for the new style shifter is bolted to the case. After rushing to get an oil pan underneath the bike, I notice the left side of the bike is pretty much covered with oil/lube. By the amount of lube that ended up in the pan, it looks like it must of happened just before I got home, so I'm not worried about internal damage. The bolt is tight, so I am assuming the gasket gave out right around the bolt. I'd like to prevent a re-occurance of the event, which would not likely happen again in such a convenient location. I had to head out of town on business, but when I return I'd like to be prepared to tackle the job. I have a 99 m2 with the 01 shifter installed. I also have the updated chain tensioner and shifter pawl. I know I need a new primary gasket, and seal for the shifter shaft and familiar with actually installing the gasket. Has anybody else has had this happen, and are there any "fixes" I should know about? TIA Tim | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Tim, Email me (address is in my profile) I'm down in Maple Grove. I've done a little fix on my M2 that seems to be working pretty good. Brad | ||
| Tim |
Brad, Will do. Thanks, Tim | ||
| S320002 |
Tim, Someone, I believe its James, makes a gasket that is just like the stock paper gasket except that it has a silicone bead running along the center of the sealing surface and around each of the bolt holes. Also check to be sure your crankcase vent is not plugged or pinched. If it is crankcase pressure can blow through the seal into the primary and force primary fluid through any convenient opening or weak point in a gasket. Greg | ||
| Bomber |
I've been noticing something odd, and would like to know if anyone else has experienced this symptom . . . .. the 2000 M2, old-style primary chain tensioner, chain tensioned correctly, when in neutral (engine running or not, no difference) sometimes exhibits a small resistance to being pushed backward (as into a parking spot) . . . . small amount of extra effort is required to overcome this resistance . . . . . .at which point it rolls normally . . . . . I'll post this in the transmission KV, as well, as I have no idea which subsystem might be causing this . . .. . any guesses? am I the only one to have felt this? a cursory search of the archives turned up nothing similar thanks | ||
| M2me |
What size allen wrench is used to adjust the primary chain? I can't reach mine with the muffler in place (2001 M2, stock muffler). It looks like I could grind down the end on an allen wrench and it would fit but I am not sure what size it is (1/4"?). I don't want to grind down a bunch of wrenches just to find out. Thanks in advance for any help. | ||
| M2me |
Success! The allen wrench size is 1/4". I was able to grind one down and now it fits perfectly. I was really getting annoyed with this. I was thinking, "Am I gonna have to drop the muffler just to adjust the primary chain?" Nope, just grind down an allen wrench a little bit and it works great. | ||
| Blip01 |
A 1/4" ball end allen wrench also works well. | ||
| M2me |
The allen wrench that I ground down is a ball end wrench. Maybe it's just me, but I've never had much success with ball end allen wrenches. They never seem to hold well enough. I did use one with some success when I replaced the rear rocker cover gasket. I had to loosen the one bolt under the frame with a small pair of vice grips, but after loosening it slightly, I was able to turn it with the ball end. This was before I bought a bench grinder. Next time I need to get at the bolt on the rear cylinder I'll just grind down an allen wrench. | ||
| Bomber |
All in my quest to make maintanance easier, and, therefor, more likely, I'd like to be able to change the lube in the primary without dropping the exhaust can (wileyco) . . . . is there any reason I can't put a, say, 1/4 NPT hole in the cover, below the primary cover, as low as possible without fouling the exhaust can, and use a plug fitting? I've no idea if the primary cover has enough meat there to support the threads . . .. | ||
| X1glider |
Bomber, a 1/4 NPT plug needs .395" wall thickness for threading. Less, thickness may not allow the plug to achieve a meachanical seal due to imperfect threads formed by the tap. A 1/8 NPT would need .273" thickness to allow for wrench makeup after hand tightening. A boss in the area would be best before tapping. I agree the plug should have been on the bottom of the outer primary cover in the 1st place. I had the best luck with putting a piece of aluminum foil over the exhaust and just letting the oil roll off it into the drain pan. | ||
| Hootowl |
Bob, That's what I do too, but I make a little channel in the foil and direct it into the drain pan. | ||
| X1glider |
DITTO | ||
| Bomber |
Bob/Hoot thanks, gents . . .. . I'll just have to see if holding my tongue on the other side of my mouth gives me enough clearance to drop the stock plug with the wileyco in place . .. . . | ||
| Hootowl |
Sorry Bomber, I didn't realize that the plug wouldn't come out at all. I can loosen mine enough to let oil run out, but I can't take it all the way out. If you find a good place to tap the case be sure and let us know. A mess-free primary fluid change would be a good thing. | ||
| Bomber |
I seem to remember Banke offering this service, long ago (like Issue 1 of BattleTwin), but I also remember going to a Sly and the Family Stone concert that actually never quite took place, so I got that going for me . . . .. wilco, though, if I find something short of welding a boss inside the cover | ||
| X1glider |
Another option would be to put a 90 deg pipe fitting in the drain hole and run a drain tube with a pull out plug, like for our oil tank drain setup. This would simply mean dropping your pipe to set this up, but it would be the last time. | ||
| Bomber |
hmmmmm . . . ..good thinkin, glide . . . havta see if there's clearance in there . . . thanks for the idea! | ||
| X1glider |
A good way to make clearance is to dent in the top of the muffler with a hammer! All the Buell cans have 'em so it must be ok to do it! ![:]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif) | ||
| Bomber |
grin . . . .yep . . .. now, lemnme get my Carbon FIber Denting hammer . . .no, that's a hammer made outa CF . . . . let me get my hammer designed for denting CF . . .no, . . . .. .. this is gonna be harder than I thought . . . . . .heck, I'll just drop the primary cover, and know in advance that it'll be a BIG mess {grin} | ||
| S320002 |
Okay, I've checked on this thread a couple of times and I have to comment. 1. NPT threads rely on tapered threads, thread depth and some sort of thread sealing compound to prevent leaks. At best this scenario sucks. When threading into aluminum it really sucks. 2. Never, ever, EVER, use an NPT threads on a moving/vibrating vehicle. It WILL leak, if not immediately then later. There are several types of seals that work better. Like the stock type. Also use anti-sieze compound whenever threading into aluminum. Greg | ||
| Socal |
Well I replaced the old style primary chain tensioner with the new style on my 1996 S1 last weekend - the archives on this site are so bitchen. Totally helped and I appreciate the contributions everybody makes to this board - really inspires one to do his own wrenching. The old tensioner was not broken, but was worn with some cool lookin' grooves at 15+k on the bike. I removed the V&H slip-on to do the project - the drain plug looked like it was way too close to remove with the muffler installed. Plus since it was the first time I had the primary cover off I figured it'd just be easier to mess around without it in my way. Everything went smoothly, and now I understand why Aaron suggested in his August 05, 2001 entry to lean the bike right, against the wall. If you have the bike on stands like I did you pretty much have to soak up all of the remaining oil in the primary case before you install the new gasket because with the bike level the oil seeps onto the gasket mounting surface every time you wipe across it! Well I had to use just a small dab of gasket maker (approx. 1/8" diameter dots) on either side of each mounting boss in order to make the gasket stay put - I had no dowels or headless bolts handy. Question: Do you guys pretty much use loctite on every fastener on the bike? I didn't on my project and want to make sure everything stays put! The parts list along with part numbers is the absolute way to go - walked up to the local dealer parts counter - rambled off part numbers and he came back with every item. Admin, I would like to provide the site with a parts list per project type html page for each of the suggested reliability and safety projects listed in the archives. My suggestion would be to include this (linked info) right under the topic and above the entries - where you already have listed p/n's, updates and suggestions. A simple project-orientated list, such as the updated primary chain tensioner installation. This could be my contribution back to the site. Example: Primary Chain Tensioner Project - Parts List Note: the list is taken word for word from Aaron's post in the archives! All's I would need is a parts list and number source, aka you guys! If it's a go - let me know - if not, oh well! Tony p.s. while looking at my old tensioner I remembered a post a while back in the quick board about somebody who had done the belt to chain conversion inquiring about some type of plastic to attach to the swing arm to prevent the chain from galling the swing arm - if you read this maybe you could use your old tensioner shoe somehow, trim it and attach it and there ya go - it was made specifically for chain contact in the first place! |
