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Buelliedan
Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 01:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ron,
The answer is no. S3s/M2s use one fender and X1s use a different one due to the location of the oil tank. The S3/M2 fender has an identation in the front that the X1 does not. And fenders from earlier models are not interchangeable with 99+ due to the new swingarm as you guessed.
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Ptown
Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 02:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mikej
Tks for the ref. to Ebay but I already got hold of a cover from 1313. Its the 1999 cover (the One with the ai´r ducts in) I was looking for one for quite a while . My bike is a 2000 millennium silver and I have now managed to obtain a spare body kit to alter the colour, not changing the original bodykit.

Buelliedan.
Tks for correcting me on the article description, stopped me from making that mistake one more time. hihi.
Also tks for you email I appreciate your willingness.
regards
Eugene
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Ron
Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 02:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Dan!
Now I know what to look and ask for.
I note in your profile that you have installed lots of carbon fiber stuff. Do you think a carbon fiber inner fender is more likely to risist cracking and chips from dirt road riding and our infamous "chip seal" on Montana roads? The rear edge of my fender has a number of chips taken out of it from these things and there is a crack at one of the mounting holes.
I don't mind buying a good used or new inner fender for 35-45 bucks but popping for carbon fiber ONLY for looks - well I just couldn't see that.
Thanks again.
Oh yah - hats off to you and any of our armed service members!
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Bads1
Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 02:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ron, Buellidan is right about the indentation but a X1 fender can work. You would have to notch out a 1 inch spot where the bottom oil tank bolt is so when the suspension compresses the fender won't come up and hit the oil tank. However I weigh about 185 lbs and didn't notch it out and it doesn't hit. Then again I don't ride anyone on back. Check my profile picture,the bike is really a M2 converted to a S1 but thats a carbon fiber X1 rear fender.
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Ron
Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 03:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bads1
I have a Penske shock and I'm only 5'5" or so. So I adjusted the ride hight of the shock down a bit. One day took my wife for a ride with it adjusted like that and ended up with the oil tank bolt bashing a hole in the indentation on the original fender.
Just thought I would mention that for those of you with ride hight adjustable shocks.
I have since adjusted back up to stock hight. I rarely ride 2 up. The wife has a Road (Toad) King that she loves.
So the inforamation you sent on the fender is helpful indeed.
Thanks
Ron
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Buelliedan
Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 03:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ron,
The carbon fiber is very lightweight and thus very susceptible to chipping. It is not a good idea to use it if you already have chipping problems with the plastic stuff. Would be very expensive I'm afraid. :(
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Josh
Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 04:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BD, get a confirmation email?
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Hootowl
Posted on Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 07:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Caboose,

Try "Engine Black" or "Black Out". It's made for HD crinkle finish, and you can get it at HD dealers. It's a milky cream that you spread on with the included foam brush. You have to get all the mud off first, but that dirty film that never seems to go away no matter how much you scrub is OK. The engine black seems to dissolve it. The cases will look new when you're done.

Jeff
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Al_Lighton
Posted on Wednesday, January 15, 2003 - 09:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hootowl,
Thanks for that tip. Ever since the Colorado ride in 2001 (wettest July in many years in colorado) and the ensuing 20 yard truck wake surf thru the knee deep mud slide across I70, my S3 cases and especially cylinder fins have looked like crap. I've washed them with everything and tried armorall, but they just look cruddy and not black.

I'll try it out.

Al
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Caboose
Posted on Wednesday, January 15, 2003 - 11:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ron and Hootowl, thanks for the tips. The nylon cleaning brush that came with my Glock M21 should do the trick between the fins and I'll give that "Engine Black" a try.
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Hootowl
Posted on Wednesday, January 15, 2003 - 12:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you have trouble locating the engine black, let me know, and I'll send you a bottle.
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Lake_Bueller
Posted on Wednesday, January 15, 2003 - 05:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Has anyone tried painting their handlebars? I'm trying to think of a reason this would be a bad thing. I'd prefer to have them powdercoated but painting would be cheaper.
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Bomber
Posted on Wednesday, January 15, 2003 - 05:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

paint would flake off the chrome. . . .. baked enamel MAY last better . . . . . .. .
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Nevco1
Posted on Wednesday, January 15, 2003 - 07:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Lake...Would suggest you contact the powdercoaters. Not sure, but I believe the chrome would have to be pickled first to provide proper adhesion.
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Kdraw1
Posted on Wednesday, January 15, 2003 - 08:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Because I suck at posting on this board, you can click on my screen name and see my bike since I got the s1 tail painted. I also had the aircleaner painted. I personally like the look of the air cleaner. My father in-law did the painting-- he owns a body shop up in MI. It cost me $20 in postage. I offered to pay him back and he said that he's keeping a tab and if I ever decide to send my wife back, he's gonna charge me--with interest!

Next week, the exhaust goes in for ceramic coating. Another bargain--I get it done for the cost of the materials only in exchange to have a sticker from the company put on my shock for advertising purposes. Between the deals I've received on this board, family contacts, and Bill over here in Lakeland, I'm making out like a bandit.

And, yes I know it looks a lot like BadS1's bike, but I couldn't afford the bloodburst paint job I originally wanted. My father in-law doesn't do custom work anymore. Nope, not even for family or threats of sending my wife back to live with him.
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Kdraw1
Posted on Wednesday, January 15, 2003 - 08:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Lake,
I thought about doing the same thing, only I wanted to have them anodized instead. I don't believe it is that expensive and it probably lasts much longer. I didn't look in to it too deeply, so I don't know the pros and cons of anodizing, but I just thought I'd offer my.02.
Kevin
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Bads1
Posted on Wednesday, January 15, 2003 - 10:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Kevin looks good.I just picked up on a small fuel tank,now I can switch back and forth between the two.I also have to ceramic coat my header because I put the pro series on, sold my ceramic coated stock header a week ago.Waiting for my wheels to get back from getting chromed, should be sometime real soon.
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Kdraw1
Posted on Thursday, January 16, 2003 - 06:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BadS1,
I'm anxious to see your bike with the chromed wheels. That should look awesome.

My next goal is to get a tach set-up for mine. Since the bike is a '98, I'm having a hard time getting information on how to do it. I think I'm just going to order all the parts for a '98 s1, and go from there.

Another goal, is look into a dual headlight set-up. Not necessarily like the 9s, but similar. I sort of like what Spiderman did with the upper and lower windscreen. I'd probably try to fashion a boot of some kind to fill in the gap between the lights and the windscreen.

Kevin
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Bads1
Posted on Thursday, January 16, 2003 - 09:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ken your right you will have to buy any dash from a 96 to a 98 S1. Your gauges are smaller then whats on a 99 to 2002.So all you need is a dash and a tach.Look for a S1 fly screen on EBAY.
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Al_Lighton
Posted on Thursday, January 16, 2003 - 03:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bubbling letters qeustion:

Has anyone successfully peeled their bubbling letters down to the color coat, leaving a non clearcoated color base, and then built up the clear coat where the letters were so that the tank looks good again without a full-on paint job?

My letters on my 98S1W are bubbling, and Buell has severely curtailed their tank replacement program. You MUST be the original purchaser of the bike. I bought mine with 90 miles on it from guy who was a friend of the dealer, so they won't replace my tank. It's very clean otherwise.

Are the clear paint codes (Clear DCU 2042, Clear Hardener DCX 9 ) given on the header of this page accurate for a 98S1W? What brand paint is this?

Thanks for any info,
Al
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Awgrimm
Posted on Thursday, January 16, 2003 - 05:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Al-
I just had the tank replaced on my 98S3 for the same problem. Only cost me the $100 fee for... whatever. I'd maybe get your dealer to try a little harder? Or call Buell yourself? Others on here would probably know a better way to approach this.
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Blake
Posted on Thursday, January 16, 2003 - 06:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Al,

I would think a skilled custom paint shop would be able to simply remove the decals sand/feather the area appropriately and reshoot/recover with clear coat. I'm pretty sure the paint codes above apply to your S1W. Sport Twin used to have a better paint info page; I'm not sure if it survived the site rework or not. I don't know the brand of paint.
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Al_Lighton
Posted on Thursday, January 16, 2003 - 07:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blake,
I agree, which is why that is my intended plan. Just wondered if anyone had tried and succeeded. Sure seems doable. Heck, I'd do it myself, I've done a fair amount of custom paint jobs of M/C tanks, guitars, and R/C airplanes in my day (but in acrylic and nitrocellulose lacquers and enamels). I hear these catalized Clearcoats are extremely nasty stuff that requires a ventilator, not just a mask, in order to keep your brain/liver from turning to mush in short order, so I'm a little spooked to do it myself.

Brad, I talked directly to John at Buell customer service. They've clamped down hard on these bubble letter replacements, and will grant them ONLY to original purchasers, no exceptions. They know I'm not the original purchaser of this VIN. Bummer.

Al
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Bads1
Posted on Thursday, January 16, 2003 - 08:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blake those paint codes are PPG products.
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Polekat
Posted on Thursday, January 16, 2003 - 08:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Roadrunr.

I called and asked a local dealer about the Givi 755 and 760. He has pictures and can order them, but nothing locally to look at and isn't sure about mounting it.

Do these Givi's come with enough hardware to mount to an M2?

Is there any modifications necessary too the M2 to make the Givi fit?
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Roc
Posted on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 03:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anyone have suggestions about removing the stickers from a Firebolt? Not the Duplo tank stickers, those are straight forward, but the smaller ones. I used my BRAG card on the swing arm warning sticker, but that may be a bit harsh for the bodywork.

Thanks
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Roadrunr
Posted on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 06:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Polekat, Givi comes with all hardware needed. I am not sure about the A760 mounting since I have not seen one on a bike yet but the A750 & A755 require no modification other than bending the mounting tabs from the stock windscreen to get them out of the way. Depending on how much tilt you want may require that you drill 2 holes in the headlight bracket.
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Anonymouse1940
Posted on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 09:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Al,
Nevermind
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Court
Posted on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 09:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

>>>Find an original owner and swap tanks with them and have them get the goodwill deal for you.


Won't work. Buell has WISELY closed the door on that after 4 years.

Court
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Al_Lighton
Posted on Friday, January 17, 2003 - 09:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Buell did right on this for a long time much to their credit. And they got screwed by it, because many of the tanks with bubbled decals got resold on the used market (they're on Ebay all the time), and then claims got made on those as well. So I certainly see the wisdom in them shutting the door on the goodwill replacements.

Still, I'm a little miffed on this. While they know I'm not the original purchaser from the dealer, they also know that I bought the thing with 90 miles on it and was the one that brought it in for ALL the recalls. This is the original tank and they know it. So basically I'm getting the shaft from the abuses of the past.

C'est la vie, I'm not gonna sweat it. Heck, BEFORE they denied my request, I was just gonna buy one on the used market that didn't have the problem rather than hassling Buell with it. But these tanks in good shape are rare enough on Ebay that they go for over $200. And I'd hafta outbid BHR for one to get one, and he needs one worse. I think I can get this one painted for less than $200. There won't be any Buell letters put back on when I do.


Al
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