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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Chassis » Suspension - Forks, Isolators, Shocks, and Swingarm » Archive through December 11, 2006 » Archives » Archive through June 26, 2002 « Previous Next »

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Necteau
Posted on Sunday, June 02, 2002 - 11:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well I had someone do it for me Now most of the time I do ride with passenger should I stay on the shorter side of the recommendation? THis is a simple process I shouldnt be worried about doing myself? Is there anything I should be aware of? THanks for the help i am still new with the Buells
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Blake
Posted on Monday, June 03, 2002 - 01:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It is important that you set the preload for your actual riding configuration (with a passenger). I'm still wondering if your "someone" did indeed measure correctly. Twenty inches is a longer measurement then I even thought possible given the rear suspension travel and the swingarm geometry.

I mean the shock itself doesn't have more than two or three inches of total travel, so one would expect that 15.5"+3"=18.5" would be the absolute maximum possible eye to eye measurement. Right? Sounds to me like your X1 is totally bottomed out with just you sitting on it.

Where's Andy or Cap when we need them?

FYI, To increase your preload you will need to turn the shock cover clockwise as viewed from the front.
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Jmartz
Posted on Monday, June 03, 2002 - 08:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tim:

I've done it a couple of times. You can ping me off line if you'd like to discuss it.

jose
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Necteau
Posted on Monday, June 03, 2002 - 06:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

After your responses I figured maybe my Dad did measure wrong he said he had measured it correctly but I checked again. I had him sit on this time and I measured. It is about 16 1/4 which still is too much but I will have it adjusted this weekedn when I get my 500 mile service. Thanks for the help you guys. Any of you coming up here to laconia in a couple of weeks? It is going to be awesome!
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Al_Lighton
Posted on Wednesday, June 05, 2002 - 02:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've not been able to find a replacement preload lock nut for the new style shock. I figured maybe I could find one at a dealer on a takeoff, but Modesto and HHoH don't have new shock takeoffs on hand, plenty of old style ones though. Talked to John at Buell customer service, he couldn't help. Went thru my Bossard metric fasteners catalog, but it doesn'thave that size, it's non -standard.

If anyone knows of a source for such things, it's a 44 mm dia, 1.5mm/thread nut, 10mm thick. If you happen to be at a dealer and know the service guy well and can ask if he could do a recall take-off, that would be cool.

Tom is riding the bike without that lock nut on it now. I couldn't see how it would hurt anything if he checked it's position before each ride. Anyone think otherwise?
Thanks all,
Al
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Rempss
Posted on Wednesday, June 05, 2002 - 09:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Al,

A mahine shop should be able to recut, or make a new nut on a lathe with a thread cutting mill. I have had a friend do it to several firearms threads (inside & out) with large strange 1890's Russian hand made threads and they came out well.

Good luck.

Jeff
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Blake
Posted on Wednesday, June 05, 2002 - 01:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Al,
I've often wondered about the need for the lock nut. The connection is always in tension, so it seems reasonable that a small bead of silicon/RTV or a competent safety wire arrangement would work just fine.
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Iiweeldman
Posted on Saturday, June 08, 2002 - 11:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My local Buell dealer does not have any fork seals and I blew one this weekdend at Americade, now with Laconia less than a couple days away I am in need of a seal, I was wondering if anyone knows if the Showa seals used on a 2000 S3 can be crossed over too a (cough) japanese bike so that maybe my local jap dealer might have the seals for a gixxer or a CBR that are the same. If anyone can help it would be great.


Thanks
Scott
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Blake
Posted on Saturday, June 08, 2002 - 11:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Scott,
I don't know, but maybe you could try calling Tat at ASB or Derek at Sport Twin. I bet one of them will know.
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Fresh
Posted on Sunday, June 09, 2002 - 10:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi all,

Just something that's bugging me.

I disconnected my shock a couple of weeks ago to change the front exhaust mount and noticed when installing all back that there is quite some space between the shock eyes and the connection points for the eyes in the swingarm and front.

When torquing it down to specs i felt that the gap was a bit to much and that the swingarm connection was forced to meet the shock quite a bit.
I did not measure the space but assumed it was ok. Now it is bugging me and like confirmation this gap is normal.


I checked the paperwork but could not find indication that the gap between shock eye and connections is to be filled or reduced with washers.

I got a 1998 S1 with Showa shock

Someone pls. confirm it is ok.

Regards, Fresh
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Blake
Posted on Sunday, June 09, 2002 - 12:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fresh,

No worries. Some play between shock lug and bracket clevis is normal. I'm curious though, what is the gap?
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Fresh
Posted on Sunday, June 09, 2002 - 01:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blake,

I'll like to try to measure width of bracket clevis and shock eye sometime next week and post results. ( but it is a pain to suspend my bike to remove shock at rear.)
I just felt it was a bit to much for my liking and was wondering if anybody else who has his shock off can do a measurement so i can compare if theirs is tight fit. If on other bikes relatively loose too, i will forget about it and continue riding.

Rgds,

Fresh
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Jasons1
Posted on Sunday, June 16, 2002 - 08:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm hoping you guys can help me out with something....

To start with, I've got a '96 S1 with around 30,000 miles on it. Recently, I noticed a high-pitched, sharp "squeel", that I think is coming from the rear shock. It happens while REALLY getting on the throttle (wheelies), or if I stand up on the pegs and compress the suspension heavily (stand-up wheelies).

Such activities are not a part of my daily riding habits, so I'm not sure if it's something that I'm just now noticing, or if I've damaged something. I just finished a track day, and did not notice anything out of the ordinary with the handling of the bike.

Any help you could contribute would be appreciated.
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Blake
Posted on Monday, June 17, 2002 - 02:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jason,

Your drivw belt is probably rubbing something.
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Ara
Posted on Monday, June 17, 2002 - 03:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jason, I'll bet you an electronic beer that your rear wheel is out of alignment and the belt is rubbing on the shoulder of the pulley. Check the edges of the belt for heavy wear and check your rear wheel alignment.
Russ
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Ptown
Posted on Tuesday, June 18, 2002 - 11:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hello.
I hope someone can give me info on the Isolators .
I have the X1 2000 millennium. I asked my dealer if my bike also falls in the category of the ones with the faulty isolators, but he said mine should be okay. When I read the service bulletin I understood that all the bikes between 1996 and 2000 excluding the S2 and S2T models was affected.Can someone please clearify this for me.
tks
Eugene.
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Blake
Posted on Wednesday, June 19, 2002 - 05:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ptown,

I'm still riding a '97 Cyclone with its original isolators. Have logged over 400 miles on the racetrack during track days too. No failure yet. If you ever have the swingarm bearings checked/lubricated as suggested for the 10K mile maintenance, you can ask to have your isolators checked and upgraded then since they will have to be disassambled anyway.

My prior M2, a 2000 model did suffer a right side isolator failure. I started to notice a grinding feel in my right peg on hard cornering. A small tear was visible inside near the bolt head. It was replaced free of charge by Shreveport HD/Buell as a good will upgrade.
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Ptown
Posted on Wednesday, June 19, 2002 - 06:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tks Blake.
I will take a very close look at them and then act upon. My bike has only done 3700 km. in the 2 Years that I have her. Shamefull but weather not always that great here in Germany and not much fun driving around alone.
Regards
Eugene.
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Hootowl
Posted on Wednesday, June 19, 2002 - 08:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Changing the isolators on an X1 isn't as hard as the other 99 and up models. There's a removable section of the frame on the right side. That takes care of the right one. Remove the lower front engine tie bar and the one under the battery, shift the frame a little and the left one will come out. Support the frame with straps from the ceiling before you loosen the isolator bolts. It doesn't have to be anything fancy, you're not holding up the motor with the straps, just the frame and the stuff it carries. If you're going to replace them, I'd go with the 2001 version. They're MUCH stronger. They require a different front pulley cover, or you can cut down your old one. Shouldn't take you but about an hour.
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Hootowl
Posted on Wednesday, June 19, 2002 - 08:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The kit part # (isolators and pulley cover) is at the top of this page.
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Jmartz
Posted on Monday, June 24, 2002 - 03:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm ready to purchase a rear shock/spring during the upcoming 20% sale at my dealership. Not being to fond of the Penske because of its weight, I was wondering if anyone out there is currently using the Works. Your impressions would be greatly appreciated...

jose
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Ccryder
Posted on Monday, June 24, 2002 - 05:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jose:
I have been running a Works Performance (pre-production) since last year at this time. I have the one with both compression and rebound dampening adjustment. I really like it and feel it is an improvement over the stock shock. You can get Works to customize it to your weight and riding style so your not stuck with the "one size fits all" production compromise. If you are looking for something better (IMHO) than stock, the Works is the way to go. You will need to tell them if you have the new recall shock versus the old shock since there is a length difference.
Since I'm at work I can't post any picts but I can later if you want, or drop me a line at my Neil's mail.
Time2Ride.
Neil S.
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Jmartz
Posted on Tuesday, June 25, 2002 - 10:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks CC. I now now that there is someone out there that likes it.

Is the reservoir mounted in the stocklocation or elsewhere?
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X1glider
Posted on Tuesday, June 25, 2002 - 04:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

On my way to lunch, I barreled over some uneven pavement and "THUNK!!!" the forks bottomed out for the first time. Never came close to bottoming out before. Now the forks bounce a lot, front wheel wobbles and makes a hollow "THUNK" sound (equivalent sound would be a hard knock on the plastic fuel tank cover) whenever the brakes are applied. Then it dives hard. The whole front end feels loose now and tracks all over the place. Is it possible to blow out a fork cartridge? This is only my 3rd cartridge fork but have never experienced such a thing.
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Mikej
Posted on Tuesday, June 25, 2002 - 04:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

X1,
Check your front engine mount isolator as well, and check the triple trees very closely for slippage. Also find a way to lift the front end of the bike and check everything very carefully. You could have just blown a seal, but the diving part tells me to check more in depth.
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Henrik
Posted on Tuesday, June 25, 2002 - 06:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

X1: If you blew a fork seal or two you should find fork oil seeping/spewing out the bottom of the top fork tube. Check the steering head bearings as well.

Henrik
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X1glider
Posted on Tuesday, June 25, 2002 - 06:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There is no leak externally visible. Stanchion tubes don't seem to have moved either. Under warranty, so I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow morning. If they can't get it back to me in time for the races on July 5 & 6 I'll have to get them to swap out a front end off a floor bike. Mike: Why would the front engine mount be of suspicion?
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Mikej
Posted on Wednesday, June 26, 2002 - 09:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

From my understanding, the engine basically hangs from the front. If you pothole-slammed, you could have overstressed the engine mount. A "thunk" is one of the symptoms of a bad engine mount. Probably not the problem, but quick and easy to check with good light or a flashlight.
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Barryx1m
Posted on Wednesday, June 26, 2002 - 02:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a 2000 X1 Millenium that still has not had the shock replaced, I've called Buell Customer Service and verified this.
Will having the shock recall done change the ride height of my 2000 X1?
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Blake
Posted on Wednesday, June 26, 2002 - 04:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No, as long as the sag/preload is set the same.
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