| Author | Message | ||
     Ara |
Once in a while it "coughs", Blake. I'm not certain that an excessively hot fuel line is the cause but since it certainly could be and the remedy is relatively inexpensive, I'm going to wrap the fuel line and see if the problem goes away. I love a good experiment. Russ | ||
| Mikej |
Isn't fuel vaporization the reason that Buell came out with the cooling fan for the Japan destined bikes? Something about the gas over there vaporizing at a lower temp? | ||
| Blake |
Mike, Yes, but Japan has more volatile (cheaper) grades of gasoline, and as I understand it, the problem only manifested in fuel injected bikes. A carbereted Buell has a gravity fed fuel supply. Highly unlikely it would be affected by fuel vaporization. Ara, Do you have a 45 slow jet and the idle mixture optimally tuned? Check for intake leaks? | ||
| Ara |
Here's what I found when I installed the new fuel line insulation. The stock set up has a heat-resistant over-tube that is at least six inches shorter than the fuel line itself and is far too large in diameter to actually insulate the fuel line against heat. The idea behind it, I believe, is to protect the fuel line against coming into physical contact with the hot cylinders rather than to effectively insulate the fuel line and the fuel itself from high ambient temperatures. I found that the over-tube was sufficiently large in diameter to allow me to easliy feed it over the glass fiber aftermarket fuel line insulation I installed. I cut the new insulation so that it runs the full length of the fuel line between the carburetor and fuel tank hose barbs. I haven't ridden it yet. To answer your question, Blake, my bike is a '97 S3 with #45 pilot jet, #205 main jet, accelerator jet from a Big Twin (the one that comes in the Dynojet kit is much too large), a Dynojet stage one kit, gutted air box, and K&N filter. Sparkplug deposits indicate that the bike is jetted properly, and I typically get between 57 and 61 miles per gallon. The occasional cough wasn't really a problem (except when powering out of a turn!), but annoying enough to run to ground. I'm eager to ride the bike and see if the problem persists with the new fuel line insulation I installed this afternoon. Russ | ||
| Coop |
Blake, I installed the new header gaskets today and I'm still getting the gugling and popping out the exhaust when engine braking, checked again with soapy water when cold and no bubbles, if I'm cruising at 3000 rpm's, every couple seconds I get a pop out the exhaust and when I give a little throttle to take off at a light there is a little hesitation before the rpm's come up even before I let the clutch out, no more breaking up though since I changed the o2 sensor, I'm thinking an intake leak somewhere, but I did the wd-40 test, should I do the intake leak test again with contact cleaner, maybe this will reveal something, would an intake leak cause popping and gurgling when engine breaking, thank-you for all the advise you have given me so far, just trying to get this right without going to the stealer, I mean dealer. | ||
| X1nut |
Coop, Check your new plugs. If they are black, it indicates a rich condition. Make sure the IAT is in it's proper position in the air cleaner. Also, check for a leak on the rear header, including around the o2 sensor. If external air is getting to your o2 sensor (possible during decelleration) it will read lean, therefore causing the ecm to try to richen up the mixture. When you re-routed your breather tubes, did you plug the holes in the air cleaner? x1nut | ||
| Madgaz |
G'day Buelligans all. Can anyone tell me if a hypercharger can be fitted to an X1. They look hot and I think they would suit, but I have only seen them on carbed bikes including M2's, but not on anything injected....yet. | ||
| X1nut |
madgaz The only difference you need to worry about on an injected bike is the intake air temp sensor. I made mine work in this killer air filter set up I have on my X-1. Drill an approx 1/2" hole (you may need to ream it out just a little, I forgot to measure mine when I was done, I think it may be closer to 9/16) in the backing plate between the throttle body and the inlet for the air cleaner. Position the IAT sensor into the backing plate. Next, I used an injector seal kit from a Toyota. Use the two thick rubber pieces, put the little oring in your junk drawer. Use the one that looks like a grommet first. It's a little tricky getting it past the barb and into the backing plate without tearing it. I used a little 90 degree dental pick. Then put the one that's more of a solid piece on past the barb. This holds the sensor securely and you can turn the sensor to allow max air flow through it. I don't know how a hypercharger is set up, so you'll have to check to see if there is room for your sensor. If you need room behind the air cleaner, Kyurakyn makes a nice aluminum spacer, which also helps make the air horn longer. If you want to see any photos, let me know, and I'll post 'em. I can measure the hole too, if anyone is interested in this. | ||
| Barryx1m |
Reading about DDFI A/F stuff leads me to a question. I have an 00 X1 with Forecewinder, Race ECM & V/H slipon. Is there any value in getting this bike dyno tuned to squeeze a little more out of it? Can the tuner optimize or re-map the Race ECM to any degree using the dyno? Or should I just get a D&D full header if I want more juice. | ||
| Ebear |
Help!!!! I ran my 99X1 fuelie out of gas.Now when I start it the bike warms up OK and runs OK until I run it up to 4000 RPM.It wont go past unless I really give it throttle.Then after it exceeds 5000 Rpm and I back off the motor spits , backfires and runs poorly.Ive swapped out these items cause I had'em. Fuel filter , oxygen sensor,spark plugs(sooty) , spark plug wires. I suspect Injectors so are they cleanable or do I have to replace?? 20,000 miles on bike.Any suggestion ? | ||
| Blake |
Coop, It might be best to let your dealer put it on the dyno and replicate the problem. I'm thinking TPS calibration may be off. Doesn't quite jive with the burbling/popping under deceleration, but it does jive with the off idle take off problem. One other thing, did you ride it long enough after the new O2 sensor install to allow the DDFI to self adjust/correct? | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Ebear, Clean the spark plugs, then ride in the following manner explained in Buell Service Bulletin #B-017: Ride the motorcycle in closed loop operation (2500-3500 rpm, approximately 40-60 m.p.h. in 4th or 5th gear with engine under load) consistently for 2-3 minutes. This allows the ECM to learn a new Adaptive Fuel Value (AFV). it should clear up, let us know! | ||
| Spiderman |
Ok guys tell me this, put a force winder on a M2 2002. Also a slip on pro series, simmulare to the Supertrap with inclosed disks. What would you do to the carb to re jet it? I did what i know is right but a little H-D shop with a Dyno told my friend it was all wrong. But i want your guys and gals input just to make sure i did what was right acording to my fav the Bad Web. | ||
| Blake |
Spidy, like it says at the top of the page... 45 slow jet, 2-1/2 turns out on the idle mixture, and a 190 or 195 main jet. Did you check your forcewinder for the too small cavity at the float bowl breather port? See Aaron's dyno testing page on that subject in the KV. | ||
| Spiderman |
lol omg that what i did !! i ground out that sectionin the force winder. the only dif is i like a 48 pilot and a adjustable needle the 48 gives you some wicked mid range response. You kow whats funny my stock 2000 M2 had a 200 main while my friends 2002 had a 195 do you know why? | ||
| Necteau |
Hey Guys, I have a new 2002 X1 and I had my 500 checkup a couple weeks ago and everything seemed fine. Now when I start my bike and then take off without giving it a warm up period it suges in 1st gear. I know surging normally means the TPS needs to be reset with my DDFI bike but I was wondering does my bike need to really be warmed up and is that what is causing it? I dont have too much confidence in My service department they are really a Harley shop. Still waiting for my ECM so I can put my full D&D system on. I cant wait! Thanks Guys | ||
| Ara |
Spidy, I run a #205 main jet and it works terrifically. Your #200 isn't necessarily too fat. | ||
| Hootowl |
When you say you're not giving it a warm up period, what do you mean? One minute? Five minutes? Or riding off immediately on a cold engine? | ||
| Necteau |
ABout a minute or so enough time for me to back it out of the garage then shut the door and get my gear on. On longer rides i give it more this is just in the morning to ride the mile to work but even on longer rides it seams to surge for the first 10 minutes of any ride. Would the engine surge if it was still cold in 1st? If that is the case I will give it a proper warm up even for the quick rides. | ||
| Spiderman |
i'm not worried about tha size czuce i have an adjustable needle, i was just wondering why they went from a 200 to a 195 | ||
| Mikej |
For a proper warmup, based on what was recommended to me, place your ungloved hand on the rocker cover. When the upper cover begins to get warm then you are ready to go. | ||
| Coop |
x1nut, I checked my new plugs and they are black, airbox is sealed and the IAT sensor is stuck to the top of the airbox right above the intake inlet, right where the dealer mounted it. Blake, I put a couple hundred miles on it since I put the new o2 sensor in, the off idle take off problem happens mostly when I only open the throttle a small amount just enough to let out the clutch and not stall, but if I grab a handfull of throttle it wont do it, I will try to check for a leak on the rear header near the o2 sensor and if I dont find anything, I guess I will have to go to the dealer. | ||
| Hootowl |
Coop, Not sure if someone has suggested this before but... When I put the race ecm on my X1 (in the parking lot at the dealer) before they reset the tps, I was playing around with the throttle to see just what all the fuss was about. It sputtered at slight throttle openings just like you describe. The butterfly was opening, but the computer wasn't adding fuel. So, maybe it's as simple as that. Have you done any mods to the airbox and maybe bumped the tps a little? Shot in the dark. | ||
| Blake |
Spidy, You have an "adjustable" main jet? Ara, FYI, I'm only 350' ASL. I'm running a 190 main jet and am actually a bit rich at WOT above 5K. This is with a 1250cc kit and 100RWHP. I can't imagine how a 205 could not be way too rich. Just wondering. Have you ever tried a smaller main jet? | ||
| X1nut |
Coop, It sounds like the tps may be out of adjustment, or maybe has a bad spot in it. You can check it for a bad spot if you have a voltmeter. The output signal should increase voltage very smoothly as you open the throttle very slowly. | ||
| X1nut |
Coop Oh yeah, you can also check yourself to see if your tps is adjusted properly. | ||
| X1nut |
necteau What rpm does your bike surge at? Mine 2000 x1 surges at low rpms, (like when going through a school zone), but that's just the nature of the beast. perfectly normal. x1nut | ||
| Coop |
I ended up calling a different dealer today and explained what my bike was doing, I also said how I had my bike back to the original dealer 3 times since I bought it this winter and its still not running as it should, they said they are good with buells and were very friendly, not used to this treatment from a dealer, except when putting my signature on the loan, they said the earliest they can take it in is 4 weeks, I made the appointment, the original dealer probably would have taken it in much sooner but I'm tired of playing patty cake with them, here's what I told him the bike was doing, gurgling and popping on decel smells really rich when idling popping thru exhaust at cruising rpm's hesitation when making slight throttle movements runs very strong and smooth at WOT when going up thru the gears, and he told me they can get it right, cant wait to find out, well thanx for the advise fella's. | ||
| Blake |
X1nut, How do you check for proper TPS zero position calibration?? Why do you say that surging at low sppeds is normal?  | ||
| X1nut |
Blake I was wondering how long it would take before you called me on some of my rambling. Ok, as far as checking to see if your tps is zeroed: 1st, make sure the throttle is closed completely. Turn ignition key on and read sensor output voltage. You should see very close to 0.5 VDC. You may need to back off the idle adj screw to get the throttle completely closed. Engine should be warm. If it's not close to 0.5VDC, you should have the tps zeroed by someone with a scan tool. |
