No, it's a case splitting job if the main output bearing is gone. You should be able to pull the pulley cover, pulley and bearing seal to visually inspect the bearing. From the sounds of it you will be able to clearly see the bearing failure.
Made a little progress today. Clutch/stator is off, trans output pulley is off, as well as the frame. I was a little worried that the pulley nut wouldn't play nice, but I hit it with an impact and it came loose easy enough.
I can see about 1/2 of the retainer behind the balls, all the balls are there, just chewed up. Definitely damaged and pitted. There was a fair amount of metal shavings at the bottom of the race against the outer seal. I don't know why it went out, the belt didn't seem all that tight on it.
Looks like it is held in with a snap ring, might be able to make some puller jaws that would go in and grab the bearing race or go through to the back side and pull it out.
I thought the same thing, but it's not worth it. I KNOW there's metal shavings in the cases now, it must come apart. I know how I'll be spending my Christmas break. I'll have my son there to teach him some more mechanical stuff, I'm kinda looking forward to it now. I was going to buy the 3 bearings I know it will need, but now I'm thinking there's going to be a bit more to replace.
I heard an occasional ringing sound from the right side. Thought it was just a loose part (pulley cover?) and then found the shaft as it is. It's more of a low growl not running, so I knew it was a bearing going out, but the ringing sound while it was moving kinda threw me a little.
I guess when it started going, I rode it maybe 5 miles at most, so once you hear it, it's too late. Luckily I was almost home and babied it to get there. I can see it totally grenading and destroying the case.
If it's just the 3 bearings on the shaft itself and nothing else, I found them for about $60-70 online with the oil seals. I'll probably just stick with stock, the motor has somewhere north of 35k miles on it.
Can't imagine doing this without splitting the cases anyway.
If it is the same as the old tubers (which it sure looks like it is) you want to pull that 5th gear drive assembly out anyway and replace the needle bearings inside it. I wouldn't be surprised if your output shaft is damaged as well. Not as bad as it sounds, you have to tear apart the tranny, but you will be most of the way there anyway. I think the shaft was $79 or something for the tuber, not as bad as I was afraid of.
The output shaft + bearings was about $180 I think, so the shaft is a bit over $100. I'm somewhat concerned about the actual transmission shaft that the needle bearings are riding on, as well as the gears. With all that movement at one end, I can only imagine what it looks like inside. I'll find out soon enough though.
Except for the metal shavings from the destroyed bearing in the trans, it's actually pretty clean looking. I'll check the bore to make sure it's good, but from the initial glance at it, I'm thinking it may be ok.
Posted on Wednesday, December 25, 2013 - 11:05 am:
It looks easy when you do it.
On my M2, the transmission output shaft (the second shaft that runs from the clutch to the 5th gear drive assembly) was damaged as a result of crushed 5th gear drive assembly needle bearings. It looks cool on my desk, and will make a nice club when the zombie apocalypse comes.
Posted on Wednesday, December 25, 2013 - 12:08 pm:
The piston skirts look better than mine did when I hauled them out so it will be up to grooves in the cylinders. I would still hone them and replace rings.
Posted on Wednesday, December 25, 2013 - 08:33 pm:
quote:
Man, this makes me real tempted to get the spring loaded tensioner to replace the stock idle wheel assembly.
I have something in the works on that front. I wasn't planning on announcing anything, but I've talked to a few guys about it and it may be a good venture. I know free spirits makes one, but I've seen the breakage issues some of them have had. I intend to make it a little beefier and out of stainless.
I ran a Free Spirits tensioner on my XB for 30K+ miles with no problems. Just make sure you loctite all the screws and make sure you have the two halves parallel, as per the instructions.
Well, even monkeys fall out of trees. So a failure of that nature is bound to happen. From what I see in the photo, it would appear that the pivot point was seized. But from what or why is the real question.