| Author | Message | ||
     Rsm688 |
Okay well I ordered a service manual but it won't be here for another week, I noticed my XB9 is a little difficult to find Neutral in and a little clunking when shifting and I am going to change the primary fluid with Mobil 1 20w50 V-Twin synthetic oil and was going to adjust the primary chain as well. Can someone give me the gist of what is needed to adjust it and what the proper specs are to adjust it to? Thanks, Spencer | ||
| Midknyte |
open that little hatch door above the shifter adjustment is with that bolt and nut underneath. the bolt accepts a hex wrench - get a hex wrench in there before you loosen the bolt that holds it in place. visually, the primary chain play should be equal its' own thickness as an easy rule, and is better to be a hair looser if in doubt (i.e. not tighter) i found mine to shift better on fresh fluids. also - if your primary sounds like someone snuck a wooden marble into it, you need to adjust the chain... | ||
| Rsm688 |
Thanks Midknyte! Any other suggestions on smoothing out the shifting to get less of a clunk? Thanks, Spencer | ||
| Doz |
Not to start another oil thread but...use Amsoil instead | ||
| Sugarmcguinnmsncom |
What Doz said... aren't there better alternatives for primary lubricant? Like Primary Lubricant...? (Message edited by sugarmcguinn@msn.com on October 04, 2013) | ||
| Torquehd |
Adjusting your clutch can also help with shifter smoothness, but it will always clunk. the 06+ were better (less clunky) due to the way the gears were cut. to adjust the clutch, take the cable adjuster to MAX freeplay. then remove the clutch adjuster cover. take out the spring and retainer. run the screw in, then back it out until resistance is felt. then go back the other way a half turn (freeplay). reinsert the spring and retainer. | ||
| Arcticktm |
Torquehd, You sure about your internaly primary clutch adjust technique? Different than what my '06 Uly SM calls for and what I have done over the past 7 years. I recall you lightly bottom (cw) the screw, then back out (ccw) a specified amount of turns (or fraction of turns). Don't have the SM here to check at moment. | ||
| Torquehd |
your description matches mine. edit: 1/4 turn will give you a better clutch feel. it's been 5 years since i've wrenched on an XL/XB model. (Message edited by torquehd on October 07, 2013) | ||
| Slaughter |
I wonder about synthetic ATF. I use Amsoil synthetic ATF for the slipper clutch since it sees double the abuse of a non-slipper. Just wondering. | ||
| Teeps |
I attempt to adjust the primary chain per the service manual. I've only used Formula + in the primary. Never heard any strange noise from primary. Never have a problem shifting, up or down. I can easily select neutral when the bike is stopped, engine running, clutch disengaged. | ||
| Torquehd |
I can easily select neutral when the bike is stopped, engine running, clutch disengaged. that's the good thing about '06 and later. | ||
| Rsm688 |
Thanks for the advise guys, I am going to adjust it and the suspension/clutch and everything else this week and will report back if I have any problems. Thanks, Spencer | ||
| Jcbikes |
You will know If it is too tight - it will be harder to shift. I adjusted mine the other day and went just a tad tighter on the adjustment to see how it would react. Immediately, the shifting was stiffer to more the lever when riding the bike, so I loosed the adjuster just a bit and it was fine. | ||
| S10er8 |
My 04 xb12r goes right into neutral and shifts just fine. I would expect the same out of yours.. | ||
| Rsm688 |
I can get neutral a lot of times but I have trouble getting it when lets say I pull into a parking spot about to park, I have to flip up or down a time or two as I always seem to just barely miss it. Hopefully adjusting the primary chain and clutch and changing the primary fluid will take care of that. Thanks, Spencer | ||
| Rsm688 |
Okay, and without starting a war: What would you guys reccomend for the primary fluid? I heard the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 Oil was excellent for the motor and primary but you guys know better than I do. What paritcular amsoil would you reccomend? Thanks, Spencer | ||
| Sugarmcguinnmsncom |
Boy, no one wants to touch this one again... <grin> Spencer, The manual calls for Formula+ for the primary. It's readily available and works well. That's all I will say on the subject  SM | ||
| Torquehd |
HD Syn3 is what I put in dozens of Buells when I worked at the HD dealership. It is top-quality synthetic oil and I've never once heard anything bad about it. | ||
| Doz |
I'd run amsoil as first choice, Castrol, royal purple as other choices but have heard of possible problems with mobil1 cause stator problems. The cool thing about amsoil is that it get delivered right to your door when you become a dealer.(yes, I'm one) | ||
| Sifo |
The cool thing about amsoil is that it get delivered right to your door when you become a dealer.(yes, I'm one) They deliver right to your door as a customer. (yes, I'm one) Actually I'm signed up as a preferred customer, so I get some discount. I've tried HD Syn3, Formula+, and Amsoil. Both Formula+ and Amsoil work better than Syn3 IMO. Amsoil works out around the same pricing in my situation and I never have to leave my living room to purchase it. I also never have to walk into my HD dealer and get the look from them when they find out you ride a Buell. YMMV. | ||
| Mbest |
The "cool thing" for me about Amsoil (20-50) is that it works better in MY bike than Mobil 1, Formula+ or the syn3. Mine's an '08 Uly with over 75K miles. The last 50K with a 1250 kit, stage 3 heads and a race pipe. Riding around in "hospital zone quiet mode" I don't see a lot of difference between the oils except I'd favor the Amsoil slightly for it's dead cold, out of the driveway smoothness. When I'm hotrodding around with a bunch of my zillion horsepower literbike buddys I find that the clutch action falls off rapidly with other that the Amsoil. Hey Slaughter, A question for you since you have a Slipper. I've had one now for the last 20K miles and tried the recommended RedLine Race ATF but found that after about a thousand miles or so the tranny shifting smoothness would start to get "notchy" and would have to be changed. The RedLine tech suggested the HiTemp ATF It has a less aggressive engagement due to the friction modifier package and worked well on the street, but again after about a thousand miles the shifting would start to degrade so I put the Amsoil 20-50 back in for now and it seems to be giving me back the longer service intervals (oil changes) that the ATF's weren't. I'm running the stock clutch pack and the factory 40kg secondary spring and I think it's a little light for my fat bike with bags on and all. I've a Alto clutch pack that's waiting to be installed, what weight secondary would you recommend? Or will the 40kg be ok with the Alto? Long winded, sorry mike | ||
| Torquehd |
how does formula + or ams work better? what is your criteria for that assessment? | ||
| Greg_e |
I had problems running the Mobile 1 4T oil, switching back to the Vtwin cured them. Haven't ever run the Harley oils or any of the other ones, but I can go into the stores and buy the Mobile 1 Vtwin which makes a difference to me. And my cycle seems to like it. | ||
| Rsm688 |
Thanks guys I think I will give the Amsoil a try and see how she likes it (Message edited by rsm688 on October 13, 2013) | ||
| Sifo |
how does formula + or ams work better? what is your criteria for that assessment? For me it's a matter of how long before the smoothness of shifting deteriorates. I just found that the smoothness lasts much longer with Formula+ or Amsoil. I will also mention that I tried Amsoil base largely on a test of numerous oils that were tested for many attributes. Amsoil for whatever reason scored quite well in pretty much every test they did. Some popular oils did well in some areas, but at the bottom in others. It seemed like Amsoil had leas weak areas. It's an oils weakness that will get you. | ||
| Mbest |
how does formula + or ams work better? what is your criteria for that assessment? For me it's a matter of how long before the smoothness of shifting deteriorates. I just found that the smoothness lasts much longer with Formula+ or Amsoil. Yes Yes Yes | ||
| M1combat |
Do NOT use Amsoil 20/50 in the primary (the smelly stuff). It fries the stator. Use the Amsoil V-twin 20/50 or some other 20/50 that doesn't smell like the amsoil regular 20/50. There's an additive in it that attacks brown metals. | ||
| Torquehd |
are you guys replacing your pri fluid, adjusting the chain and clutch every 5,000? i ran syn3 in my xb9sx and never had a single issue shifting or with clutch feel. | ||
| Sifo |
This is the oil Amsoil recommends for the Buell XB. http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/mo torcycle/20w-50-advanced-synthetic-motorcycle-oil/ ?code=MCVQT-EA  It does not have the modifiers in it for some gear oils that attack the stator. I use it both holes. | ||
| Sifo |
are you guys replacing your pri fluid, adjusting the chain and clutch every 5,000? I do. |
