| Author | Message | ||
     Jetbuilder |
Warning don`t use it in your primary! Mobil says it is made for Air cooled V twins with integrated wet clutch/transmission lube systems. Don`t use it in an XB it will stick your clutches together and cause clutch failure! I know mine is being torn down as we speak. Red (Message edited by jetbuilder on August 04, 2006) | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Where in the world are you getting your info from? What ever happened to yours I doubt Mobil 1 had anything to do with it. | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
I AGREE..Many have been using it for a long time with no problems at all. It is actually a prefered brand to use. I have heard some silly things before...THIS being just another one. How about some details there jetbuilder... I would hope your shop is NOT yankin' your chain! | ||
| Jetbuilder |
My bike is in the shop for another issue requiring the clutch to be torn down when the primary cover was removed the oil was very dirty and smelled burnt. It is only 1300 miles old and has not been abused in any way I baby this bike. The mechanic with 20 years on Harleys/buells asked what type oil used i told him and he said he has seen it before with this particular brand/type. I use Mobil 1 in everything else i have including mowers but in my primary case it failed. I am not bashing Mobil 1 its great stuff it is just in my Primary it failed. And I was told i am not the only one to have this happen. Red | ||
| Diablobrian |
burned smelling oil in the primary case is usually an indication of a burned stator. That's the only problem of that kind I remember hearing about. Have you been slipping the clutch much? (Message edited by diablobrian on August 05, 2006) | ||
| Jetbuilder |
No clutch slipping as I said I prety much babied this thing Red | ||
| Diablobrian |
That's what raised the question of slipping the clutch. Trying to feather it out to take off more gently can be hard on the clutch. | ||
| Rocketman |
I hope I can bring some clarity to this thread. Mobil 1 fully synthetic oils are not good news in the primary. Nor are any fully synthetic motor oils. Whilst many have had no problems with these types of lubricants in this type of application, never the less others, me included, have not been so lucky. My circumstances were somewhat different in that I was attempting to get good clutch grip for drag racing using an extra strength spring plate and kevlar friction plates. I can't count how many sets of kevlar plates I went through before I found out kevlar and fully synthetic motor oils don't mix. Revtech state NOT to use fully synth motor oils with kevlar plates. Yamaha UK dealers have stopped using Mobil 1 in their IL 4's at service. Simply put, Mobil 1 fully synthetics are not best used in wet clutch plate application. Those using such lubricants without problems, and there are many, great. Others have not been so lucky. And yes I use Mobil 1 whenever possible otherwise. Rocket | ||
| Cmm213 |
i dont use the v twin oil I use the gear oil | ||
| Pwnzor |
To be fair you only just now mentioned the kevlar clutch. I've been using synthetic oil in my primary for over 25k miles and no issues whatsoever.  | ||
| Diablobrian |
I use amsoil synthetic myself. I was trying to help what may be a "You weren't using syn3" diagnosis from a dealer. I've seen too many reports of dealers blaming problems on non-factory lubricants, and claiming that voided the warranty. With stock clutches and only 1300 miles of baby-ing the bike something doesn't add up here. I suspect a mis-adjusted clutch allowing it to slip myself, however that would be something they couldn't pawn off since that would be part of dealer set-up, if they did a proper job of it. I'm not saying they didn't, just saying it sounds like a very odd set of circumstances. | ||
| Endobrian |
"kevlar friction plates" The devil is in the details. | ||
| Jetbuilder |
In my case the actual clutches are in good shape but are "Stuck Together as if the oil broke down and glued the plates together. They were sepirated and cleaned and seem to be in good condition. The issue is it seems that the plates were not sepirating as required during use. The dealer mechanic is a long time friend and this is a warranty job so I don`t think he is not telling the truth Red | ||
| Diablobrian |
Fair enough, just seems odd. | ||
| Truk |
I have an 03 xb9R with 16,500 miles and 11,500 with Mobile 1 Synthetic Vtwin oil in the engine and Mobile 1 75-90 Gear Oil in the Primary. No problems | ||
| Rocketman |
Mobile 1 75-90 Gear Oil in the Primary Just a heads up. I was careful to point out my troubles were with MOTOR OILS, NOT gear or transmission lubricants from Mobil. That's the same for the Yamaha info too. Mobil 1 motor oil, as in Mobil 1 4T, a number of R1 owners were reporting back to their dealers, clutch slip was evident after recent service. Some Yamaha dealers were using, as I understand it recommended, Mobil 1 motor oils in their higher performance lines. Consequently my local Yamaha dealer stopped stocking \ selling Mobil 1 4T. That is why I switched to Mobil 1 15w 50 racing in the motor. It's about all one can find in the UK. The kevlar plates I used with the green segments, those segments for the majority just came off the steel they were fixed on. Found lots of them floating between the plates. I use Redline transmission stuff at the mo. Rocket | ||
| Glitch |
Stator. | ||
| Jetbuilder |
I want to make sure everyone understands the reason for the post my issue is that in y attempt to use one oil for both engine and primary lube I selected Mobil 1 "V Twin Synthetic" oil which is supposed to work in both engine and wet clutch/primaries. In my case it did not i will continue to use it in the engine but not the primary. Red | ||
| Rocketman |
I understood your post entirely, which is why I clarified my findings. Thanks, ....Red? Rocket | ||
| Typeone |
so do we have any new info on this statement (?) 'cause I stopped using 75W90 and now run 15W50 in both cavities.... "Mobil 1 75W90 Gear Oil ... will attack yellow metals, and should not be used in applications where they will contact yellow metals ... I am on my 3rd stator & now running M1 15W-50 in engine and primary. -Oz666" past discussion here... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=4062&post=651713#POST 651713 | ||
| Opto |
From the other thread: "I called the Mobil1 tech line and was told that Mobil1 GL WILL attack yellow metals. I am on my 3rd stator & now running M1 15W-50 in engine and primary." I'm confused, what is "GL"? Can't find any GL on the M1 V-Twin pack. As someone else pointed out, if the oil attacks yellow metals then our cam bearings are dissolving inside the cases? What's the difference between a Jap wet clutch and a HD wet clutch? My XB12S has had 2 years of this stuff in it. Edit: I find API SG SH/CF JASO MA on the M1 V-Twin pack. (Message edited by opto on August 09, 2006) | ||
| Typeone |
I think he meant Gear Lube by the GL. its the 75W90 gear lube/oil i'm curious about still. i stopped using it after reading that set of posts. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Mobil 1 15W-50 is does not have a GL spec. And "GL" needs further specification, it has to be either GL-4 or GL-5 as far as I know. Mobil 1 75W-90 gear lube is a GL-5 lube and GL-5 is more corrosive to yellow metals. The point of contention in the frequent discussions here is that some think that it is the cause of failures in the connectors or windings in the alternator stators in the Buells. For additional info, here is something I copied from a website: "GL5 is a different spec, and is not 'backwards compatible' with GL4." "GL5 gear oil is a lubricant with very high extreme pressure performance needed for Hypoid gears where sliding and rolling contacts operate under very high loadings. This is achieved by incorporating high concentration of sulfurized additives. The downside to such high sulfur in oil is it tends to corrode yellow metals, so can ruin parts like brass synchronizers and some bushings. So any equipment needing GL5 performance is designed taking this limitation of the lubricant into account." "GL4 oils are much more friendly to yellow metals, and so are used in equipment where such high load sliding-rolling contacts aren't present. The designers of such equipment aren't as limited in the use of brass parts. So the bottom line is that if your equipment calls for GL4 it probably doesn't need GL5 performance, and you may be asking for trouble down the line if you use a lube it wasn't designed for." All this is further complicated by the fact that the MoCo does not specify oils and lubes by API specs, instead they say "use H-D this" or "use H-D that". It would let us make more intelligent choices of lubes if we knew what API specs were specified. Jack | ||
| Typeone |
thank you for the clarification, Jack. appreciate it. | ||
| Djkaplan |
WARNING! Don't use gasoline in your Buell. It is the main cause of wear and will evenutally cause a failure in your motorcycle. I know this because all the motors I've ever had eventually became ruined when I used gasoline in them. BEWARE! REPENT! FEAR THIS(?) | ||
| Whodom |
Just in case you're wondering what MOBIL says (the folks who make all these wonderful lubricants), I e-mailed Mobil a couple of weeks ago and asked what they recommended for Buell primaries/transmissions. They responded: "Mobil 1 MX4T 10W40 motorcycle motor oil [synthetic] is the recommended and appropriate product." I had seen someone else post this same info at BadWeb within the last year so Mobil's response wasn't a fluke. I'm going to try a quart of that at my next change. | ||
| Brucelee |
Sorry to disagree, but that is too light an oil for the trans. I use RL 20W-50 but the M1 Twin would work fine too. BTW-doesn't Buell recommend their 20W-50 Syn3 for the trans? (Message edited by brucelee on August 09, 2006) | ||
| Whodom |
Sorry to disagree, but that is too light an oil for the trans. It seems light to me too, but I'd hope the people that design, manufacture and market this stuff know WTF they're talking about. Remember that 10W-40 is the standard lube for most Japanese bikes which share the lube between the engine and transmission and it works fine there. Lots of autos run ATF in their manual transmissions, which is an even lighter lube. | ||
| Lord_deathscyte |
I am switching to amsoil. They tell you right on their website which oil you should in the different parts of your bike. In the case of an xb it is the motorcycle oil 20w50. http://www.amsoil.com/products/streetbikes/oil_chart.aspx | ||
| Alexfiggy |
this stuff is getting old im going back to buell h/d stuff | ||
| Jackbequick |
Daniel, Okay, I've got it parked with the tank drained. Let us know when the MoCo starts selling a H-D branded gasoline, then it will be safe to put some in and take a ride. :>  Jack | ||
| Whodom |
Better let the air out of your tires too. No telling what that "no name" air could be doing to them...  | ||
| Glitch |
Well at 46000 miles I guess I better stay away from the Mobil1. Guess I'll be using the SPORT-TRANS FLUID Part #98854-96. I've used Mobil1 when I could find it. Also I've used the Red Line gear oil, the Royal Purple gear oil, and a few others. Has anyone here used the Sport-Trans Fluid since birth? | ||
| Davo |
Glitch, I am using AMS oil 20W-50 MCV in both holes. The nice thing about AMS oil is that it can be mixed with conventional oil in a pinch. No friction modifiers and it has a great wear scar performance. It is labeled for HD & Buell and all of my clutches are doing well. I use it in my big twin and Sportster well. |
