| Author | Message | ||
     Deanh8 |
How the hell do you guys get it to stick to the factory plastics? I cant seem to find any products to stick to this molded plastic. Adhesion promoters, plastic sealers, all kinds of stuff and everything just flakes off very easily. What process did you guys use and what products? | ||
| Sifo |
Did you wet sand with 600 grit? | ||
| No_rice |
um, on the 9 i sanded it somewhat, primed it with a sandable primer(rattle can) and painted it(rattle can). that was i think in 04 or something and its still fine. on the 1125r we pulled it into a buddies body shop after a night of drinking and ran some deglosser across the plastics, sprayed them with an etching compound, then sprayed the paint. that was 08 and still fine. didnt really spend much time on either of them. | ||
| Deanh8 |
yes sir. I mean it stays but around all the body bolts its cracking and down on my chin fairing where the clutch cable comes in contact with the fairing its rubbing off. Just doesnt seem very durable. | ||
| Sifo |
Did you spend a whole lot of time sanding in where the bolts go? It's a real pain in the arse and very time consuming. Scotch bright pads can make it easier in these areas. Any automotive primer should work fine on sanded plastic. Sand again when dry. Are you using rattle cans? They vary greatly from one product to the next. I've had decent luck with Rustoleum products though. Others may work too. I've gotten the best results with 2 part paints and spray guns followed with a clear coat. The longer you can wait before bolting things back together the better. Paint takes a couple of months to fully cure. Do you still have the nylon washers that go under the bolt heads? They should help soften the contact points. Bolts being tightened up against a painted surface is always a problem, especially in an application where you get vibration. Things like a rubbing clutch cable will rub right through almost any coating. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Is this the paint on your project bike, the deep, deep red?  That stuff is/was beautiful. I second that nylon washer suggestion. Pick some up at your hardware store if you don't want to get the dealership involved. Body shop mentioned a flex agent when repainting the wife's car's plastic bumper skin. I wonder if this can be added to any paint. Clutch cable on my tuber is rubbing through the chin fairing paint. That was just the cheap Krylon Fusion paint that's supposed to bond to plastic, it remains a little flexible even when fully cured. | ||
| Sifo |
Flex agent should be available for pretty much anything you will be shooting through a gun. It really shouldn't be needed for Buell plastics though. Bumpers are much softer and can take a real beating. The real key is getting good adhesion especially in those recesses where the bolts go in on some parts. It wouldn't hurt to wipe it down with Prep-Sol or lacquer thinner right before painting to make sure it's nice and clean. If you used a lacquer based paint they can be pretty brittle. Many of the rattle can products don't really describe what kind of paint they use. That leaves you with trial and error testing, especially if you are looking for a good color choice. | ||
| Bads1 |
Doesn'T matter what you do... if you over tighten the paint will crack. | ||
| Deanh8 |
yeah but those bolts NEED to be tight, I have used the plastic washers. I have also lost a shit load of them due to not putting them tight enough. Maybe I put them on to soon, its not bad but I can tell in another year or two its going to need to be redone. It was solvent basecoat and solvent clear sprayed out of a gun. | ||
| Sifo |
Blue locktite is your friend with those bolts. Well, it's my friend with them. I still have all of my original bolts. I just snug them down. | ||
| Bads1 |
Sounds more like a prep issue to me. The plastic needs to be really flat without any sheen..... anywhere there is will create a issue later. None of the faster's have to be so tight that you start to put indentions in the body work. Alittle locktite does do the trick. |
