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Buell_41
Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 11:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

So I'm on another uneventful ride to work... same ride, same conditions for the last 10k miles with zero issues. Accelerate (rpms up to around 4500) around some slow cagers. Shift to 3rd, rpms back down to ~3500. Cruise for a bit, VERY big lurch. Gee! Ok, good wake up, try to brush it off when no sooner does my bike start popping almost on what seems to be every compression stroke (like what most people experience when decelerating). I was holding the throttle constant but the bike is slowing down! At about 3000rpm, problem disappears... perfectly smooth again. Interesting I think to myself... Accelerate back to 4000rpm. Problem comes back except now the bike is literally bucking and the tach is going NUTS! The needle is snapping back and forth from 4000 to 5500 (doing my best to hold a constant throttle but just can't hold it). I pull off, shut it down and do a walkarond. Nothing out of place. Fire her back up and for the remainder of the 20 mile ride to work, as long as I stayed below 3500rpm, all was well. Do the work thing, head back home... problem comes back all over again.
Make it back home and hit the basics:
check grounds
check battery terminals
check chaffing
reset TPS
no active or archived trouble codes

All seems good. Go back out for a test ride. Now I can't get out of 1st before it starts bucking the crap out of me.

I know its gotta be electrical but what could it be!?!?!?!
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Toecutter
Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 11:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Water in the gas?

Did you check the plug wires?

(Message edited by Toecutter on July 20, 2010)
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Im_joedirt
Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 11:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Bad fuel?
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Buell_41
Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 11:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I'll check the wires...
Can you still get bad gas even if you stay away from the grocery store gas?
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Im_joedirt
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 12:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Maybe dirt or crap from bottom of tank.
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Buelltroll
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 12:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

EXACTLY what happened to me. Except mine evetually stalled n died n would not refire.AFTER a couple months of diagnostic type fixes it was a bad race ECM. I couldn't see the wiggle they apparently could see or the tiiiiiiny little crack, But check your ECM for dirt funk cracks tiiiiiiny little wiggles between the connectors or other crap.

(Message edited by buelltroll on July 21, 2010)
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Smoke
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 05:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

low battery? bad charging system?
tim
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Buell_41
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 07:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

rode to the nearest gas station (2 miles away), filled up with gas, fired her back up, made it to the end of the station's driveway and it gave up. Cranked until the battery was dead, cranked for ~15sec with jumper cables attached... would simply not fire. At 1am last night, out of desperation put a 15A fuse where the 30A fuse is. The thing ROARED to life. threw my gear on and hammered it out of the station... and made it about a 1/4 mile down the road. Doing about 60mph, the thing flat shut OFF.... IN GEAR!! For those who've always wanted to know - no, the back tire doesn't lock up... but I was in 4th or 5th so... maybe it does when you're in 1st and the lights go out. Anyway, pull out the 15A... its blown (duh). Pull out the only non-necessary for engine running fuse thats let - the lights. I'm kinna out in the country so theres no street lights and no one can see me. Make it to about a tenth of a mile from my house... POW... lights (well I don't have any do I) out. There is nothing more hellish than walking your bike down a public road even for that short of a distance. Anyway, today I stopped and got all new fuses. I'm putting them in and notice this... I never touched the relays, I'm 200% positive... Do have the fuse box cover oriented correctly?... cause... there's nothing in the ignition socket... I took the picture standing on the right side of the bike...



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Greg_e
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 08:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Which fuse is it that keeps going?
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Brumbear
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 08:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

headlight short? which fuse keeps blowing?
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Buell_41
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 08:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

none of them are blowing, I just kept swapping them out so I could get home.

The fuse changeout did not fix my issue. Unless I got bad gas again, that ain't it.
Plug wires look okay.
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Brumbear
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 08:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

swapping them out should make 0 difference if nothing is blowing out. I think you may find letting the machine cool down is whats restarting it because continuity is continuity the machine doesn't know what value the fuse is its either good or bad. If its heating up and shutting down look at wires coil and or ecm but especially if the grounds are good its charging and its not throwing a code
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Krueger08xb12s
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 09:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I had the same problem and ii found one of the smaller gauge wires tied into the positive battery broke loose and sometime broke contact during the ride.
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Buell_41
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 10:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

brumbear, I think you're on to something. the hotter the works are the less it wanted to fire. I was trying to do some driveway datalogging. It'd start run for a while, die. Start it up again, really struggle to get going. Die. Then it just cranks and cranks and will not fire... which is where I'm at right now.

PS - Swappped out the ECM, no change.
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Brumbear
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 10:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Coil, wires,grounds
do you hear the fuel pump whining when you have the problem?
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Buell_41
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

not while its happening, but as soon as it dies, the pump does do that whining thing like what happens when you first turn everything on.
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Briz31
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 11:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well..
Look at the cover..
FRONT = Front of the bike.
Relays should be placed as it appears on the diagram.

"turn your cover around"

Cheers.
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Buell_41
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 11:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

so are my relays not installed correctly? or are the fuses correct and "front" text really faces the rear? I'm confused.
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Brother_in_buells
Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 09:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The relays are in the correct place (the sticker is wrong)
It,s possible that it has some short in the relay or a broken (ignition) wire!
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Blake
Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 12:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Might not hurt to check/change spark plugs.

Cylinder head temperature sensor may be a suspect too.

Kickstand safety switch too.
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Buell_41
Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 01:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I'll check the plugs and wires tonight.
I replaced the head temp sensor just last year but I'll check it out to be sure.
My '04 12 doesn't have the kickstand kill switch... Has gotten me a little rattled up a few times... Thought this was common for that year model.
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Buell_41
Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 01:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

PS - how would plugs, wires, or head temp sensor cause the tach to flip out?
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Brumbear
Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 05:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

motor dies and runs tach goes from 3500/0 3400/0
IMHO as long as plugs and wires are good look at the coil
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Buell_41
Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 06:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

right, 3500-0-3500 makes sense if there's no spark or something is grounding. But the tach is going the other way... I increase the throttle to 3500 and it flicks UP to 5500 and back to 3500 in less than half a second.... Keep holding the throttle open... pop, pop, jump, pop, pop, BAM, dead... no re-fire. Have to wait till it cools down. Fires right up like a champ. Repeat.

I'm not trying to split hairs and I'm in no way you're wrong. The bike's behavior is just not something I'm understanding.

I'm headed out to pull the plugs, wires and coil for a look see.
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Buelltroll
Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 06:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Slap your stock ECM in there and see what happens. Mine runs a little rough at slow speed and backfires waaay to much to be healthy for it (K&N filter and D&D exhaust) but since swapping back to stock ECM its hasn't bucked or sputtered and died once.
MY bad just saw the swapped ecm post. GL man I know how smash something aggrivating crap like this is. If I could get even close to half of what I got into mine I'd sell it in a heartbeat. I REEEEEALLY want to love my bike but I just don't any more. For pretty much these very reasons.

(Message edited by buelltroll on July 22, 2010)
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Buell_41
Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 08:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

alls good. plugs are not fouled

Could my bank angle sensor cause these symptoms?
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Brumbear
Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 09:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

it should throw a code if its a sensor no codes and good ecm it is either coil fuel pump issue or wiring problem
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Wheelybueller
Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 10:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It could be the tach,That runs off the ignition system.
Unplug it an see if it still dies.If the tach is shorted it could be grounding out the ecm.
Also check ALL your grounds and connections.
Remember Keep It Simple,dont over think it.
Good luck,hope this helps.
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Hootowl
Posted on Friday, July 23, 2010 - 09:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Just for good measure, unplug your speed sensor too.
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Buell_41
Posted on Friday, July 23, 2010 - 05:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well, I caved... 6 years of doing my own garage work or in the garage of friends and now I have to surrender workmanship to a dealership... HATE electrical crap! Thanks for all the suggestions. We'll see what the shop says.
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