| Author | Message | ||
     Jraice |
I am going to be performing this one on my own. Ill have a rear stand, torque wrench, tool kit and a garage full of other tools. Doing stock filter and Amsoil all around. Not asking for specific info, I can search for specifics... But just general things to look out for, short cuts that I should look into, common problems etc... would be VERY helpful. I am not to worried about the oil change, done that before. Have never had to change tranny oil though or check the level (always had one oil on my past bikes). Also the primary chain is something I have not done but that cant be to bad... I did buy a service manual. Thanks! | ||
| Hughlysses |
Most important thing is DON'T over-torque the swingarm drain plug, and DON'T even torque it to the recommended torque. You will strip the threads out of the swingarm. "Gudentite" is the torque setting most of us use. The primary chain is a little tricky to do correctly. You need to push down on the chain first, then up. That entire range of motion (from pushed down to pushed up) is the distance you are trying to measure and adjust. Too loose will cause excessive vibration; too tight will cause hard shifting. Everything else is pretty straightforward. (Message edited by Hughlysses on July 11, 2009) | ||
| Ourdee |
Things to get at the dealer: Get about 5 o-rings for the drain plug, Same one for both oil plugs. Get 2 seals for the clutch inspect hole and the chain inspect hole on the side cover. Note: o-rings and inspect seals are cheap so save a trip to the dealer later. Get your oils and filter. Have fun. I don't use a stand. I just tie mine to the rafters to keep it up straight. Gudentite sounds like a german word for virgin. | ||
| Etennuly |
I have had two new XB's. Don't panic if you see a bit of metal shavings on the trans drain plug magnet. Both of mine did at the first change. A little metallic residue is normal from the engine plug.  Yeah really, that torque spec in the SM is no good for the drain plugs. | ||
| Jraice |
Thanks guys for the info on the drain plugs! I didnt get o-rings :/... Big deal or should I definetly get some? Are they the same as anything from Harley? Harley dealer is much closer then Buell. | ||
| Etennuly |
You can get them in a five pack at Lowes or Home Depot for about a buck. I have reused undamaged ones when needed. If they have any tears or roughness, scrap them. | ||
| Zorton |
the o rings are so cheap you might as well do it if you can get a hold of some, i dont use a torque wrench on mine, my bolts for the tranny and oil have an allen fitting on the underside so i just use a small allen that i know i cant over tighten it with and barely snug them. with the locktight or teflon tape they will be fine! good luck and have fun, i trust myself way more than any dealer! | ||
| Jeffroj |
Careful with the inspection and clutch cover, those threads strip out easily also. After I stripped the first one as I approached the lower recommended torque number, I just helicoiled all of them and will never have to worry about them again. | ||
| Joel9 |
sorry to butt in, i just had my 5000mi. service done at the dealer, and now i get a really tight vibration at around 3500rpm. also it jumped out of gear today (2nd to neutral), never has done that before. they changed the oil in my primary, do you guys think this may have anything to do with it? thanks(i'm referring to hughlysses remarks on primary chain being too tight or too loose) (Message edited by joel9 on July 15, 2009) | ||
| Jraice |
Inspection and clutch cover snug with blue loctite, yes? And snug for the oil drain bolts... Thats a bit scarier as it would be a major problem if one vibrated loose but I suppose I can just check it a week or so later to see if its still solid. | ||
| Zorton |
mine hasnt jumped out of gear but i have also noticed a vibration like you mention at the same rpms since they adjusted my primary, dont think the fluid would do that to it, i just havent got around to taking mine back, dealers suck, well most of em |
