| Author | Message | ||
     Buelltroll |
So I'm FINaLLY getting around to get my recalled 2ct replaced and the first bolt i touch strips. On to an ez out,nice small pilot hole,screw it and back it out. SNAP! Anyone got any ideas on how to get this out that DOESN'T involve ruining my front fender? Oh and while down there I noticed that the header bolt that had backed out n got re tightend at my last dealer stop is now completly gone. stud and all   | ||
| Jos51700 |
Drill the head until it lets loose of the fender. Then grip the shoulder with vise-grips (after removing the fender), and you should be able to break it loose. I wouldn't use an EZout on an enemy's bike. | ||
| Nillaice |
dremel tool | ||
| No_rice |
what i have done is drill the head OFF of the bolt. take a decent sized bit and drill just enough to get the head off of there. it leaves the sholdered part of the bolt still sticking out. then once i have removed the fender i take a vise grip and clamp it to the bolt hard and work it back and forth until it looses up decent and reposition the vise grip and start working it out. one added tip, fill up a gallon milk jug full of water and keep a constant stream of water running down over the fender and bolt. trust me, if you dont run some water on it, it will get hot and melt the bolt head into fender. it sounds like it takes longer than it really does. | ||
| Buelltroll |
I cant drill it out there is a broken off ez out in there. Making a whole lot of noise but not removing any metal | ||
| No_rice |
only idea i have for that is to get a dremel with a small cutting bit and do the same thing basically but just leave the easy out and work around it until you get the head chewed loose so that you can pull the fender out and over what is left. | ||
| Wrecked |
Slot the head of the bolt with a Dremel and use a BIG flathead screwdriver. | ||
| Bueller83 |
Please don't use a dremel. I had this same problem with my clutch cover bolts and after hours of fun with drills and dremels i took it to my friends grand dads house and he got a pin punch sharpened it grabbed his hammer and a couple of tap tap tapperoos on the outer edge of the bolt got it loose in less than one minute | ||
| Skinstains |
+1 to Wrecked's method. It has worked on all of my rotor and sprocket bolts wich I have replaced with hex-heads. Or, you could remove the bolts from the fender on the left fork leg and rotate the right leg to give you access to the frozen bolt from the rear. If you turn it clockwise from the rear it will be counter-clockwise from the front. | ||
| Moosestang |
My fender bolts were stupid tight! I guess I was lucky that I didn't strip them. | ||
| Gjwinaus |
Ya gunna hate this suggestion but - if all else fails, remove the leg with guard attached and find a toolmaker, (look in yellow pages under toolmakers)and use an EDM machine (called sparkers in the trade)and they will burn thru the bolt then you only need to pick the thread out, and if you get a good one, the cost is usually in beer or other similar negotiable currencies. | ||
| Hogs |
Might as well throw this in for what its worth... Get a buddy to mig weld a nut through the center of it to the screw/bolt and then use a wrench/socket to turn that welded nut out with the strip unit... If you go this route make sure to disconnect both pos. and Neg. cables from the battery first...! (Message edited by hogs on November 07, 2008) | ||
| Bads1 |
Us a allen wrench that has is slightly larger and tap it in with a small mallet. Then carefully turn it out. | ||
| Moosestang |
Us a allen wrench that has is slightly larger and tap it in with a small mallet. Then carefully turn it out. Good suggestion, at least it can't cause any more damage. | ||
| Brumbear |
they sell drill bits that have a catch on em it'l pull it right out. | ||
| Jabooty |
i had the same happen. i removed the wheel and heated the back of the bolt with a small flame torch to melt the thread lock around the threads. this will make it easier for the bolt to back out. i was able to get enuff bite on the head to turn it out. just be careful not to burn the fender. i used a small lighter type torch that has a small flame. | ||
| Wantxbr |
Drill out the bolt from the back side. Remove your wheel and the fender on the other side that doesn't have the broken EZ Out and twist the other leg around so you can get at the back side easily and drill that sucker out from the back side. Watch out for the threads. With any luck you'll heat the bolt enough to were it loosens up the thread lock and should undo the bolt for you as your drilling it out. | ||
| Microchop |
2 ideas. Like the oversized allen wrench method, I have hammered torx bits into rounded out hex fasteners. Works better than an allen, more grip. Taps and easy-outs are brittle. You can shatter it with a few hits with a punch and a hammer and pick the pieces out, start again. I have done this as well. | ||
| Bigredwood |
I have stripped lots of socket buttonheads in the past. This has always worked for me.  Put the appropriate allen wrench in the socket. Use a punch to push the flats back to the allen. Now it gets tricky . . . get a buddy to help . . . one will turn the allen as the other uses the punch to move the bolt counter-clockwise. Good luck. Wood (Message edited by BigRedWood on November 08, 2008) (Message edited by BigRedWood on November 08, 2008) | ||
| Bigredwood |
I have stripped lots off socket button heads in the past. This has always worked for me.  Put the appropriate all in the socket. Use a punch to push the flats back to the allen. Good luck. Wood | ||
| Ducbsa |
Carbide bits should cut it. see http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/CTGY/dremel-ca rbide-bud Is there enough meat left after removing the fender to slot it with http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/PROD/dremel-cu t-off-emery-wheel/XRL3-1020 ? (.015" thick) The EDM is good, too. I did the same with an AJS trans housing and the broken EZ Out melted like butter. | ||
| Dano_12s |
+1 on Redwoods pic.Take your time! | ||
| Ducxl |
MAN!!!! As a machinist i can't believe a couple of the suggestions  THe BEST one though was posted on Bigredwoods post just above.  | ||
| Brumbear |
that is the best but its recessed so I don't know if they can get a good angle | ||
| Ducxl |
Well....i have some left handed carbide drill bits.Drilling off the button head could work too.Or get radical and drill out the whole bloody thing and insert a Keensert or heli-Coil. Sounds like a lot of work.But i can see how it does get complicated. | ||
| No_rice |
yes the allen wrench is the obvious answer, if it wasnt for this problem... I cant drill it out there is a broken off ez out in there. Making a whole lot of noise but not removing any metal kind of hard to put an allen in the torx spot if there is an easy out jammed in there! | ||
| Nillaice |
dremmel tool, then allen wrench... does buelltroll all ready have this bolt out and is just not telling us? c'mon, end the madness! | ||
| Bads1 |
yes the allen wrench is the obvious answer, if it wasnt for this problem... Thing of it is Tim. That it looks like the bit snapped at the base of the hole. An Allen to me looks like it will still go in. This lil trick has worked for me many times. (Message edited by bads1 on November 08, 2008) | ||
| Buelltroll |
The cutoff wheels I got for the dremel are the perfect size for slicing into my fender soooo looks like the slot it to a flathead isn't gonna work. Can't tell what redwood is talking about. The ez out is not all the way back in its actually all the way in the front so I cant pound anything into it. I'm gonna give the shatter it with a punch idea a try if I can find a small enough punch. | ||
| Ducxl |
Go to your local hardware store.They sell NICE SHARP NEW ones for less than 5 bucks.  |
