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Buell Motorcycle Forum » XBoard » Buell XBoard Archives » Archive through October 01, 2007 » Buell warm up period « Previous Next »

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Stretchman
Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 04:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hey all. Since I have two bikes, I don't ride the Buell all the time. I have a Harley too, and enjoy riding that quite a bit as well, especially since I am getting more middle aged.

Anyways, since I don't ride the Buell as regularly as I should, sometimes I just take it out and do some riding around the neighborhood. Because of this, it is mostly 30 MPH cruising around, easy on the throttle, and relaxed riding. The weird thing is, and I don't know if anyone else has noticed this, is that the sound changes as the bike warms up, and it gets much much smoother as the sound changes. At first, with the valve in the exhaust ( it's a 12 ) it sounds like a couple of washers in a glass jar. After it warms up, the rattling is gone, and it really sounds good. Riding it that way for a little while seems to clear the plugs out too, and the roll on power is good from idle to redline.

Am I the only one that notices this, or is it simply a fact of Buells? Even if I am going out on a distance ride, if possible, I like to get some slow speed warm up. Seems the bike runs better all day if I do.
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Badlionsfan
Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 05:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

prolly hearing the valvetrain, which gets quieter as the oil warms up and circulates better. just a guess tho.
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Etennuly
Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 05:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I think you're saying it runs like crap when it is cold and is a superstar when warmed up. That is the way mine works! I let it warm up for about 3-5 minutes while I suit up and run it easy for the first five miles or so. Then it is time to go!
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Slaughter
Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 05:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I think most of the Buells ECM's have a second fuel injection map that takes over once the engine has reached a certain temperature.

I know my S3 runs really ratty even after letting it idle while I get my jacket, helmet, ear plugs and gloves on. Takes a couple miles before it smooths out.

Sounds normal to me.

(Message edited by slaughter on September 24, 2007)
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Pso
Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 05:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I made the mistake of going to the Sistersville, Oil and Gas Festival two weeks ago with some riding friends. They had a lot of old, old engines there, that were used to pump out mines etc. Well the fellows started to joke about the sound of the Uly. They started to call it "tractor". Well as they say "nothing runs like a deer". The nerve of those yahoos. One on a hardley the other on a dry clutch BMW.
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Sparky
Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 08:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well, I've got a little tale to tell regarding cold warm-ups. A phenomenon I've noticed on my XB9R is kinda interesting. Maybe one or two of you have noticed this too.

Ahem, my start-up drill is to idle the engine while putting on helmet, gloves and pushing the bike out of its parking place and then sitting in the saddle while reaching down to the lower fins on the rear cylinder waiting for it to get kinda toasty on the figertips.

That's not the phenomenon I was referring to in the intro. It's this: while idling, I pull in the clutch and give it about 5 short but quick revs to maybe 2 grand, nothing much more. The idea is to use the engine's no-load acceleration to help break free the clutch plates.

What's phenomenal is that with the first couple or three revs, the engine vibrates kinda pronounced, but with a few more short revs, the vibration subsides (usually, not always though) and the engine accelerates rather smoothly. This is when I can snick it into first gear silently with no snatch, clack or grind.

Of course, some people might say just pull in the clutch lever for 5 or 10 seconds and it will be just as quiet putting it in gear. Well, maaaybe it will, but it doesn't sound quite as cool as a Buell going BRAP, BRAP, BRAP!
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M_singer
Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 10:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I don't start my Firebolt until I am ready to ride off. It do take it easy until she is warmed up but, the bike runs just fine when cold. This is the most flawless running bike that I have ever owned.

It is engine is bone stock and will stay that way. It just runs too good to be messing with. When I hear about some drivability problems that other have from time to time I wonder if I just got lucky?
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Disturbed
Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 11:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You didn't just get lucky M_singer. My bike has the stock air box with the Buell "race filter", Drummer pipe, race ECM, and she starts fine hot or cold, I rarely ever let it idle more than 30 seconds and I'm gone.

I think alot of driveability issues can be attributed to a bad tune or parts mismatch.

I'm leaving my ride alone!
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Sslowmo
Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 11:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

if i hope on mine and give it 1 min or 2 to warm up and take off. it wants to jump around a little. meaning, as i'm riding around 55 mph it cuts out for half second and does that for a few minutes, for about 1 mile or so. then all is good. so i try to let it warm for maybe 5 min then roll out. always, taking it easy for the first 10 min or so. letting the tires warm up is key, not to crash on cold tires. i live in twisty county, it's great to be me.

Aaron
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Diablobrian
Posted on Monday, September 24, 2007 - 11:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The reason for the vibration may be a little drag in the clutch because the primary fluid is still cold and thick causing
drag. After it gets a little warmer this drag goes away.
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Luxor
Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 01:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I won't ride until the front valve cover is warm to the touch. Cold loading is the worst thing for and engine.
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Gschuette
Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 02:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I fouled my plugs riding it to school the other day. No more short trips for the XB I decided. Horrible idle when cold and it would sputter and pop until it was revved a little and cleared out. I changed the plugs and all it well. BTW where do you get the little black springs that hold on the spark plug wires? Autozone had no clue what they were.
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Pso
Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 09:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I had been instructed that if you blip or touch the thottle when first starting the bike, there is a tendancy to foul the plugs. seems that Spark's procedure indicates that this information that I was given is a falacy.
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Swordsman
Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 09:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Mine ALWAYS runs like crap for the 1st 5-10 minutes. I think it's a combination of the engine being cold, and the fact that the AFV is set to the previous riding conditions (mornings and evenings have been greatly different around here lately). I usually let it idle while I'm gearing up, then try to hold it around 3000-3200 rpms for 2 or 3 miles. It usually clears up by then.

~SM
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Bake
Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 09:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I'd check the primary chain.
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Sparky
Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 12:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

No, don't misunderstand what I was saying. Always cold start the XB with a closed throttle. After it's been idling for a short while, a minute or two, then you can play with the throttle if you want.
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Acejay
Posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 12:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

hmmm, an engine that is rough when its cold, and runs better when its warm....... sounds like every other engine that ive ever owned. although it is far less noticeable in modern cars.

i let mine idle for a bout 30 seconds whilst i do up the helmet and gloves, then ride it gently for the first 5 - 10 minutes and its all good after that.

from my own experience, and from what i have read the experts say, the best way to warm up an engine is under gentle load, letting it idle for 5 mins doesn't do it any favours. i used to blip the throttle when it was cold, give it a few revs to get it going, and i also used to have a bad problem with it popping and backfiring when it was cold - go figure. had the plugs changed and no more blips - backfiring has stopped too.
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Tx05xb12s
Posted on Wednesday, September 26, 2007 - 04:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I start her up with throttle closed and don't touch it until the choke goes off and revs settle around 1,100 RPMs. After that I take it easy with her the first few miles until I start to get some grip from the tires and the engine is warmed up somewhat. However, she runs like a champ hot or cold. I have noticed she does shift a little smoother once the primary fluid is warm.

Maybe I'm one of the lucky ones too. This bike seems to take anything I give her in stride with no complaints. Bear in mind though that I baby her maintenance wise. New oil/primary fluid every 1,000 miles, K&N filter gets cleaned at same interval, TPS reset and fresh plugs every 5,000 miles, etc. I insist on her looking/running like a new bike at all times and consider the maintenance side of bike ownership part of the appeal of the bike. I'm well pleased with my ownership experience as a Buell enthusiast. I expect I'll enjoy the 1125R even more, though I intend to keep my 1203 too, if anything just for nostalgia's sake since it's my first road bike.

I'm single, so there's no argument around the house about my thoughts of dry-storing my XB in the den like a piece of art when the new one comes in. Ya'll can keep your Norman Rockwell prints...I'm into Buell sculpture.
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Starter
Posted on Wednesday, September 26, 2007 - 06:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Upon cold start there is an 7 point enrichment factor that is applled to the fuel maps based on the temperature reported by the rear cylinder temp sensor. The enrichment gradually steps down at different invervals until the engine is considered warm at which time the fuel map enrichment is back to 100% at about 180 degrees celsius. Logging mine I have found that the engine running takes a good 5 mins of riding to get to normal running.
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Brad1445
Posted on Wednesday, September 26, 2007 - 09:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I dont ride it for at least 2-3 seconds after it starts
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Acejay
Posted on Thursday, September 27, 2007 - 10:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

ha, you're lucky there brad, mine will stall every time if i try to take off instantly from a cold start!
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