| Author | Message | ||
     984gasm |
Ok, so I'm finally swapping out my stock bars for some pro-tapers. Is it as easy as just loosening the brake/clutch assembly and sliding them out of the old bars, or does the whole "clamp" assembly have to come apart. I also am putting new grips on, it matters. I read in an old thread that I may have to drill out a spot where the "nub" gets placed to stop the assembly from shifting/sliding.. Can't remember what exactly said, but is that the case if anyone understands what the hell Im talking about? Any other hints would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
1. I haven't fitted these particular bars, but yes, the clamp must be removed and refitted to change to any other bar. Whilst the clamp is removed, you will have access to the steering head bearing adjustment nut. Might be a good time to tighten to shop manual spec.s, (40 ft. lb.s) with front wheel off the ground, if you haven't done so lately. 2. The "nub" is a little plastic nub that keeps the throttle and clutch side switches from rotating on the bar. There are two ways of handling this. a. cut the nubs off, put a little electrical tape on the bars, and tighten down. Crude but effective. b. put some masking tape on the bars where the plastic switch gear will go. Then put the two halves together, place them where you want them, and press hard. The nub will leave a mark. Drill a hole of the appropriate size at this mark. Make sure you have the units correctly placed before drilling. 3. Normally, changing handlebars does NOT repeal Murphy's law, so before you start, it might just be a good idea to see if any changes to cable lengths or position will be required. Often is. Not sure on this particular swap. | ||
| 984gasm |
once again Gent Jon, your advice is much appreciated.. | ||
| Kowpow225 |
Very sage advice. Be careful about cutting any amount of bar off of the ends. I cut 1.5" off of my azonics but would only remove an inch if I had a do-over. This led to the throttle being in somewhat of a bind and not 'snapping shut' completely because the housing was resting on the bend somewhat. I ended up just cheating the controls out that extra half inch to make up the difference. | ||
| 984gasm |
Yeah, I'm def going to place everything (throttle/crg mirror) where it seems good, and then cut from there. | ||
| Borrowedbike |
984 I've got the Pro tapers on mine. Replace from the right, IE slide the bars in to the clutch clamp and it's not too bad of a job. I have the Carmichale bend bars and the banjo fitting to the font brake ends up at a weird angle. I chose to leave min even though it looks bad, but if you bough a couple new gaskets and didn't mind bleeding the breaks down you could fix it up right nice. The throttle cables were a pain in the butt. I routed nine above the bar. There are two adjustments. I ended up with the "large" adjuster (I think this is throttle) pulled all the way in, and the small (lower, closer to the rider, return cable I think) almost all the way out. Hardest part of the job was getting the cables not to stick at any position, lock to lock. Bars are a thicker wall, so anything you had in your bar end will need some sort of machining to make them fit. PM me if you have more questions. | ||
| Al_lighton |
Similar to what Jon wrote, but I just put a small dab of grease or mayonaise or wax or snot or whatever on the tip of the nub. If you line is up and then clamp it straight on, just center punch the center of the wet spot. Measure twice, drill once. Al |
