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Rage10
Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2019 - 11:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey all,
So I'm looking at my FUBAR rotor today after taking it off the bike. I got it from EBR before they were bought out by liquid asset. I dont think it was EDMed. Maybe someone that's more knowledgeable about EDM can correct me if I'm wrong.

It looks like whoever made the oiling hole used a drill to make it. There is a milled flat on the inside of the splines, then a slightly smaller drill was used to cone the flat, then a .045 drill was used to drill the final 3/16 or so to drill through to the other side. I can see a small burr where the drill bit exited.

I'm pretty sure I could drill the new rotor I'm getting on my drill press on the same way. I'd probably do it at work though because the mills there are more rigid. Milling that first flat on the drill press would be a little schechy.

Any thoughts?
Cheers,
Isaac
.
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Xbuell12s
Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2019 - 12:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

From what I've heard, any drill bit will allow too much oil to pass through and that is why the hole is made using an EDM process. There is one other method out there but I'm not familiar with it. SPHD sells them new without a core charge for $350. I'd advise going that route.
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1313
Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2019 - 12:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Might have to enlarge the pic to see the "cone":
http://www.erikbuellracing.net/store/catalog/produ ct/gallery/id/202/image/433/

If it came from EBR, it was EDM'ed.
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1313
Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2019 - 12:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's a better shot:
http://www.erikbuellracing.net/store/catalog/produ ct/gallery/id/202/image/431/
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Rage10
Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2019 - 12:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No. The EDM is used because it's easier then trying to drill a .045 hole with a twist drill. Imm calling BS on it. Mine was supposedly EDM and I think it was twist drilled. Why would I pay 200 inc core or 350 for something I can do myself for free. The machine marks on the rotor look like machine tools. Not EDM tool.
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Rage10
Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2019 - 12:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Some photos I took up close.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=12CgCpebRpy FUpF_fWzxLBZaBHiGB3R33
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Rage10
Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2019 - 02:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hmp. So I found the 350$ drilled rotor on SPH. Looking at the pics of the hole there are completely different then the one I got from EBR. The one from SPH loom properly EDMed.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1713/7809/produc ts/DSC0630_703_1024x1024.jpg?v=1574359353

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1713/7809/produc ts/DSC0628_675_1024x1024.jpg?v=1574359353

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1713/7809/produc ts/DSC0627_588_1024x1024.jpg?v=1574359353
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Panshovevo
Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2019 - 09:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have you ever tried to drill a .045” hole in hard steel?
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Rage10
Posted on Thursday, December 19, 2019 - 04:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yep,
I drilled an oiling hole in the camshafts on my v65 magnas. .032" with a hand dremel cause I couldn't be assed to take the cams out of the bike. Wasn't too difficult.
The hole in the rotor is .028 not .045. And its only a mild steel. Not very hard at all.

But anyway it's all good. The rotor is drilled. The guy I'm getting it from didnt see the oiling hole until he had removed it.
I'm going to do a test drill in the old rotor to see if I can do it or if imma have crow for Christmas.
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Snacktoast
Posted on Friday, December 27, 2019 - 09:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I can tell you with 100% certainty that every rotor that EBR sold and went out the door while it was still EBR (prior to shutdown in 2015) had that hole done by EDM.
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Stevel
Posted on Sunday, December 29, 2019 - 06:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It is well accepted that this is the best fix for the burning of stator windings, but I think it is wrong, because it reduces available oil from the pump and that's problematic. The engine is already under oiled, especially in the cylinder heads and under cooled. The correct answer is to replace the VR with a series 847 regulator, which will reduce the stator duty cycle. That should be enough to not overheat the stator coils.
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Panshovevo
Posted on Sunday, December 29, 2019 - 09:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

According to former Buell/EBR endurance racer, and a member of this forum Jim Dugger, if you keep the rpms up (thereby keeping more oil circulating), you won’t have a stator problem.

I have to admit that this is easier on the track than in traffic though.
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Stevel
Posted on Monday, December 30, 2019 - 04:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It is well accepted that this is the best fix for the burning of stator windings, but I think it is wrong, because it reduces available oil from the pump and that's problematic. The engine is already under oiled, especially in the cylinder heads and under cooled. The correct answer is to replace the VR with a series 847 regulator, which will reduce the stator duty cycle. That should be enough to not overheat the stator coils.
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Stimbrell
Posted on Monday, December 30, 2019 - 07:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is there anyone here that has changed to the series regulator without the updated rotor? if there is can you tell us how it went, how and where you ride, would be interested to know, I have the updated rotor but unfortunately there is no track anywhere near me so road use only which starts and ends in city traffic.
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Anakist
Posted on Monday, December 30, 2019 - 10:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am running an 08 with the series regulator just as a weekend toy. I try not to ride too much in summer because it is too hot for me but if I do the bike is fine.

James
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Coastrambler
Posted on Tuesday, December 31, 2019 - 01:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've a 2009 R with stock rotor and stator. Installed a series VR some 10,000 miles ago. No problems in that arena since. That said previous stator and stock VR went 18,000 miles before failing, without any heatsink grease. Lack of heatsink grease was due to the work being done under warranty by dealer. The '09 stator/rotor/VR is a marginal design. I ran with high beam lights on, this to reduce heat in VR. Don't have to do that now. Mounted new VR on back of license plate pad, it runs very low warm.
It's my belief, as someone who has been in electronics in a failure detection role all my life, that the high failure rate of the '09 electricals is a combination of stator overheating and VR overheating as well. The '08s have a lower output alternator and thus don't cause VR burnout. Note the stator/rotor/VR comprise an alternator.
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