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1125rz
Posted on Friday, May 17, 2019 - 04:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey guys. Had an issue with my tach needle being off , installed new ic , low fuel light & check engine light on with low fuel error . Had Harley warranty me a new one , same problem , original part #y0500.1am which superseded to y0500.2ama. Is there a difference in pin configuration at ic connector or is this just not compatable with a 2008 1125r? (No light with original ic installed) any clues ?
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1125rz
Posted on Friday, May 17, 2019 - 04:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think the Y500.2AMA is for a 2009 1125r. Anyone know what the difference is or have an 09 wiring diagram?
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1125rz
Posted on Friday, May 17, 2019 - 05:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

heres my 08 ic connector/pin config
ewd

ewd2
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1125rz
Posted on Friday, May 17, 2019 - 05:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does a 08 fuel sender have a different resistance than an 09? Manuall says “ The fuel level sender will not show a resistance reading if the sensor is working properly and the fuel level is above the sensors “ but the code trouble tree says should have 850-1200 ohms (dtc b1005)
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Stimbrell
Posted on Saturday, May 18, 2019 - 11:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I seem to remember others have put 09 clusters on 08 bikes to get the gear position read out so they should work. It could be your low fuel sensor has gone out of spec but the 08 cluster allows more room for error. Do a search on this forum for the low fuel light and check engine light to find the fix, for me it was using the sensor from an XB. Good luck.
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1125rz
Posted on Saturday, May 18, 2019 - 03:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks , looks like my fuel sender is bad. Seems storage that with original ic it works fine . Hooked up my instrument gauge tester to the fuel sender wire , at 1k ohms , no light or low fuel light , dialed it down to @ 0.2 volts )maybe 100 ohms) low fuel light comes on.rechecked with original ic & low fuel light comes on also. I guess it’s much more sensitive . I do have open circuit through fuel sender but manual tellsyou it should have between 800-1600 ohms also it tells you if tank full you cannot measure resistance . Will install a 1k ohm resistor till get new fuel sender/pump. Thanks again
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Panshovevo
Posted on Saturday, May 18, 2019 - 04:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A new fuel pump assembly is over $300. The fuel level sensor from an XB is about $15, IIRC.
The only difference is that the 1125 sensors are soldered to the assembly. You can solder it if you have the right flux, or you can clamp it on. It just has to be grounded.

There is a thread on the board that can be found with the Google link above.

I am one of those who put a later IC on an ‘08. No problems.

(Message edited by Panshovevo on May 18, 2019)
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Oldog
Posted on Wednesday, May 22, 2019 - 01:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Common electronics ( rosin core ) solder should work fine.

1313 and I replaced his cr's sensor, IIRC the sensor clips in to the pump body. Mamoth snap ring pliers, and a puller tool help the job go well.
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Panshovevo
Posted on Wednesday, May 22, 2019 - 11:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The low fuel sensor clips on to the XB fuel pump, but not an 1125 fuel pump.

I haven't tried soldering one, but remember reading that common flux core solder wouldn't bond to the coating on the sensor or the pump assembly.
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Thursday, May 23, 2019 - 10:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

an old post with pictures:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/728008.html?1391094574
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Panshovevo
Posted on Thursday, May 23, 2019 - 01:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Ron. My memory was a little confused...
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Oldog
Posted on Friday, May 24, 2019 - 12:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pan If I remember correctly the only thing I had to solder was the lead wire. I think that the clip was used to hold the ground.

but the body was tinned in a spot If I recall correctly.
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Duanelr
Posted on Sunday, May 26, 2019 - 12:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Getting to that fuel pump is a pain. Wow.
I wrote a short post about my experience. For now though, get the biggest burliest snap ring pliers money can buy and be patient. (Or just buy the Snap On tool part they spec in the manual). My '08 snap ring was barely corroded but I went through three pliers. Fsck that snap ring.

Oh ya, then try pulling the pump assembly out, oh the pain..
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Panshovevo
Posted on Monday, May 27, 2019 - 09:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've pulled three fuel pumps now, and haven't had a problem removing one yet.
Getting to them is more of an issue on R models than on CRs, apparently because of the shape of the swing arm.

For the snap ring, I use the largest of a Harbor Freight snap ring pliers set that retails for around $30, and goes on sale for $20 now and then.
To pull the pump, I thread a bolt in the center hole, and use a cheap Harbor Freight slide hammer.
Hasn't failed me yet.

When I buy tools I will use regularly, and need to depend on, I buy quality. Sometimes, for some jobs, it makes sense to buy Harbor Freight.

I have three of their hydraulic lift tables, the oldest of which is 12 years old, and haven't had a problem with any of them.
I only buy them when I can get them on sale for $299 or less.
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Professorbarnhouse
Posted on Wednesday, May 29, 2019 - 06:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I do the same thing, if its something I use everyday I buy the best, if I'm only gonna use it once in a while HF is good enough. You can also hotrod some of their stuff and improve it a lot, and its a great source of materials. My 6" HF belt grinder is really good. 30 years ago they sold a lot of complete junk. I bought a mig welder there in 1985 that was more like a toaster with a piece of flex conduit sticking out of it.
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