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Fred_is_not_me
Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2018 - 01:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have replaced the stator and rotor only in the 1125cr. I still seem to have issues with charging as the dash light eventually disappears and the speedometer stops working. Could be unrelated, but it sucks running around on this machine thinking your bike is going to overheat and fail on you even after the change.

The purpose of this post is the ask the following question : ):

Do we have a definitive answer on whether you should "undo" the HD fix only after you update with new stator and EBR rotor?

I would like to be able to run this bike at lower rpms on long highway rides and not have to worry about the battery being drained. I'm also using a Shorai battery so it is tiny and tons of maintenance.
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Joe7bros
Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2018 - 06:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did you replace the voltage regulator? Shindengan SH847; series V/R instead of the Ducati shunt V/R currently on the bike. And yes, you can remove the Harley fix.
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Fred_is_not_me
Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2018 - 07:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I didn't do voltage regulator. Is it a necessity? I know we can remove the Harley fix : ), but is that the best practice considering the fixes I have done?
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Trendkillkustoms
Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2018 - 07:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The CE 605SB regulator is what I have, and have read several articles on them. Only downside is the size and necessity for constant air flow, so on these bikes, it is necessary to mount them external of the body. I did like most and made a custom license plate/regulator bracket under the seat. There are threads in the archive with photos of the unit and mounting. I so far, knock on metal, have not had any issues with it.
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Joe7bros
Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2018 - 09:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Replace the V/R; series regulators handle excess charge and heat much better than the stock shunt type regulator; you should check out the charging sub section
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Joe7bros
Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2018 - 09:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here: Stator/Voltage Regulator/Charging System subforum

Last post to this section was 04/27/2018
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Stevel
Posted on Wednesday, June 27, 2018 - 01:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For those uninformed. Automotive alternators have V/rs that control the excitation current that builds the magnetic field that generates current in the alternator windings. The net result is that the automotive alternator only makes the energy required.

On a motorcycle, the magnetic field of the rotor is generated by permanent magnets. So, the alternator is always making maximum energy required or not. The shunt regulators (standard)regulate by dumping the excess energy to earth in a load parallel to bike system, hence the word shunt.

A series regulator controls the energy from the stator coils by controlling the duty cycle of the stator coils' connections by switching them into and out of the circuit. This allows the net energy of the alternator to be controlled, but not its peak current. Peak coil current would be the same as in a shunt system, but because the coils are not always in circuit, the average energy out will only be what the bike system needs. Yes, the switching transistors do get warm, but no where near as much heat has to be shed as with a shunt regulator. So not only do series regulators run cooler, they extract less horsepower from the crankshaft as well.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Thursday, June 28, 2018 - 04:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stevel--What is the best voltage regulator to replace my stock one?
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Stevel
Posted on Friday, June 29, 2018 - 04:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

All the series V/Rs are good, but many use the Shindengan SH847, even me.
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Panshovevo
Posted on Friday, August 03, 2018 - 08:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

An anonymous tech person at EBR told me that anything other than the stock rectifier/regulator will give you problems...that was over a year ago, and I havenít looked at the EBR parts pages to see if they still exist.

I bought a rec/reg on Amazon for under $85 that looks identical to the original, and has the proper connectors. I installed it on the Ď08 R model, but havenít put many miles on it.

I bought an SH847 for the Ď09 CR, but as the bike is apart for upgrades, havenít installed it.
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Panshovevo
Posted on Saturday, August 04, 2018 - 09:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The EBR parts pages are still up, for anyone who didnít know.

http://www.erikbuellracing.net/store/
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Deanh8
Posted on Sunday, August 05, 2018 - 04:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So if I have the EBR rotor mod and my bike also had the HD fix, what are the pros and cons of leaving the HD fix in.
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Robertl
Posted on Thursday, August 16, 2018 - 03:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If I remember correctly the HD fix disabled/bypassed 1 of the circuits in the charging system which reduced the heat in hopes of saving the stator or just extending its life some.

The whole point of the updated charging system in 09+ was to address the weak charging system. The "fix" is more of a temp hack.

The best and only real solution: rotor upgrade, new stator (unless the miles are really low it is already partially damaged), and removing the fix. Test or replace the rectifier if needed. Some will argue but TwinCycles and EBR will confirm the solution.

Others, often with low miles or a new stator, get by just fine with the series regulator because it does work better and reduce heat. Probably depends a lot on riding style and outside temps.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Thursday, August 16, 2018 - 04:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, someone remind me why the 08s are ok electrically, but the 09s suffer from burning up stators?
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Joe7bros
Posted on Thursday, August 16, 2018 - 04:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fresno, HD decided the 1125s did not suit their clientele and the bikes needed to produce more juice; only they failed to account for added heat from the greater stator output. Also, I believe all post 2008 bikes suffer from stator failure. And for Robert, if you have updated the stator/rotor/voltage regulator, you should remove the HD fix, otherwise your charging system will not put out full power.
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Froggy
Posted on Thursday, August 16, 2018 - 04:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

09s had insufficient cooling to the stator at RPMs most people ride at on the street, causing them to burn up. The EBR rotor fixes that.
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Froggy
Posted on Thursday, August 16, 2018 - 04:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Joe, the early 08s had problems with bikes becoming discharged. There was a handful of reasons for this including a bug in the instrument cluster firmware. As part of a shotgun solution, Buell put a bigger/higher output stator in for the 09s.

Having a 09 doesn't automatically mean you will have stator issues, those that keep the RPMs high (usually track riders) won't have the issue as the cooling issues only happen at lower RPMs (typical cruising speeds)
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Thursday, August 16, 2018 - 06:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the info guys. I knew this at one time, but since I have an '09 collecting dust in the garage I wanted some clarification. PS, my '08 was an early one and it had the mysterious battery discharging instrument cluster. I remember Blake and I got into serious arguments over that one. Good thing is I got an '09 cluster on warranty, which is slightly improved IMHO with the gear indicator.

(Message edited by fresnobuell on August 16, 2018)
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Robertl
Posted on Thursday, August 16, 2018 - 08:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't quote me on this one, but I think they added a 3rd winding to the stator.
That "fix" bypassed the extra winding; therefore, reducing output and heat.

It wasn't just the 1125s that were impacted.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Thursday, August 16, 2018 - 10:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

Don't quote me on this one, but I think they added a 3rd winding to the stator.
That "fix" bypassed the extra winding; therefore, reducing output and heat.




So does this mean the "fix" effectively put the electrical output back to the '08 spec? I was under the impression the "fix" wasn't totally effective, so were there other factors that caused stators to fail post-"fix"?
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Coastrambler
Posted on Friday, August 17, 2018 - 01:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's sort of it. '09 stators have 3 windings connected together in a delta pattern. That is the end of each connects to the end of another at each end. This makes it a 3 phase unit. The '08s were 2 phase. '08s had marginal output for a street bike. The additional output from the 3 phase units helped with any added stuff, like heated handgrips. They also overheated. Both themselves and the voltage regulator. So, HD put in their "fix". It opens one of the three output leads. This cuts out 2 phases. Not ideal, to say the least. Best fix, IMHO, is a series regulator.
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