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Rudolfs001
Posted on Monday, April 02, 2018 - 01:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_TeJou9mYI

NorCal Cycles did a free dyno day, so I wanted to see what it would put down: 125 hp.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Monday, April 02, 2018 - 02:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Seems like it should be making closer to 140 RWHP, but there are large variances between dynos.
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Rudolfs001
Posted on Monday, April 02, 2018 - 04:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah, I was a bit surprised. The other bikes dynod read roughly where the should have. Any ideas what could be causing the drop?
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Monday, April 02, 2018 - 04:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is you Buell high mileage?

Is your EBR ECM the Barker's tune?

How many miles on the Barkers? Ever been repacked? I understand if the packing is damaged, it will affect HP negatively. Also, the sound levels will be higher than a properly packed can.

Is your air filter clean? I noticed on my R that after sitting for about 6 weeks, the crud on the air filter seemed to settle in with the higher winter humidity, which seemed to really affect the flow of air. I actually had the bike die a couple times coming to to a stop (low RPMs) and also when I was leaving a stop. It appeared, the engine was getting choked due to lack of air flow. Cleaned up the K&N, re-installed and like magic no more low RPM stumbling/issues.

I have to think with such a dirty air filter it was also costing some HP at the high RPM ranges.

Just throwing those out there since I have recent experience both re-packing my Barkers and also the cause-effect dirty K/N filter.

Also, I am wondering if the velocity stacks you installed are somehow not jiving with the EBR tune and costing power? This is beyond my expertise, so perhaps someone else can chime in.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Monday, April 02, 2018 - 04:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

On another note, I remember the one and only time I had my 1125R dynoed, they had an issue with the short wheelbase (it was a Harley hot rod shop so you know what they typically put on thy dyno). The run didn't go well as I recall and it was probably a setup issue on the dyno (rear wheel slipping possibly).

Not saying this shop messed up, but I am sure they probably had lots of bikes to dyno on free dyno day and they may not have been as diligent as they might be if you paid for a dyno session.
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Rudolfs001
Posted on Monday, April 02, 2018 - 04:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Got the bike 3 months ago at a tad over 20k.

The EBR ECM is the Barker's tune

I don't know much of the history, here are my assumptions:
Exhaust has at least 10k miles on it, original packing.
Air filter is clean-ish. About 1/5 has visible crud.
Velocity stacks were on the bike when I got it.

The dyno shop had an adjustable front chock and got the rear wheel right where they wanted it.

How much did the power change with the Barker's repack?
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Monday, April 02, 2018 - 05:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I actually haven't ridden my bike after the re-pack, so I can't even tell you from the seat of the pants dyno.

15 RWHP is alot when you are talking about a motorcyle. I doubt an exhaust can that needs packing would make that much difference...it might be worth an email to Barkers to see if they can give you an idea from their expertise, if 15 RWHP is a plausible loss from a can that needs to be re-packed.

Depending on the riding style (high revs?) of the old owner, I would say at 10,000 miles on the Barker it probably needs a re-pack.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Monday, April 02, 2018 - 08:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I had the break-in service done on my CR I was still working at a dealer. I had them put it on the rollers for grins. Dyno was 142 rwhp. Bone stock bike to this day.
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Dannybuell
Posted on Tuesday, April 03, 2018 - 10:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Seven Years ago I Got The Barkers-EBR installed on my CR. That night I ran the can empty (tube in) on the I-205 Freeway. Entering the next suburb brought me a local MC LEO. We chatted and agreed more work was needed. The engine was so incredibly free revving when downshifting with that empty can! When I installed the medium sized silencer it revved slower. No LEO issues after that.

Consider this, are the valve clearances known? Were they within spec range or each one at loosest of published range? I suspect this has everything to do with this engines upper RPM s breathing ability.

db
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Tuesday, April 03, 2018 - 11:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

From recollection, the generally accepted numbers for the 1125 motor.

125 stock

140 with Barkers, EBR tune, free flow air filter

And good point Dannybuell--Valves are supposed to be done every 12K miles. I am guessing the OP doesn't know if the valves have been checked at the first 12K interval. And at the current mileage he's getting close to the 2nd 12K interval.

Maybe a valve check is in order?
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Tuesday, April 03, 2018 - 11:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

@ Dannybuell

You say the Buell is freer revving at least on the downshift with an un-packed can.

What are you feeliings about the power in general, or were you worried about the noise, and didn't rev the motor?
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Rudolfs001
Posted on Tuesday, April 03, 2018 - 12:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good tips guys!

I've been silently suspecting it's the valves as well. There's a heck of a chatter (though from reading the rocker-arm cams chatter by themselves).

I know the 12k service was done, and the bike is at about 22k now, so I was planning to wait until after this summer to do the valves, especially since it's supposed to be a bit tough and I don't know of any techs in the Bay Area who can do them.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Tuesday, April 03, 2018 - 04:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm at 25,000 miles on my R. Had the first valve check done early when it was in the shop getting some warranty work done.

I am a do it yourselfer and am a bit hesitant about taking this on as well. Definitely a winter project for me. Hopefully this winter if life cooperates.
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Barraspalding
Posted on Tuesday, April 03, 2018 - 07:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I wish there was someone local to me who had some working knowledge of the 1125 engine... i'm kind of flying blind.

I also get some clatter in a higher gear at low speed... unlike a jap 4cyl that would just roll on without much argument (slowly with no power) the buell really talks back with tonnes of horrible top end clatter... scaring me into quickly swapping cogs.
Would the noise be consistent with overdue valve adjustments? Or is this a standard engine characteristic.
FYI - 2010 model, odo 9600kms / close to 6,000 miles.

Also had a Buelltooth delivered yesterday, waiting for a map to be delivered and see how it changes the fueling from stock (which is bloody surgey down low / at cruise).
Checked my AFV front and rear settings - Front is 105.3%, Rear is 99.8%. I read this disparity between front and rear is nothing to worry about.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Tuesday, April 03, 2018 - 10:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

@Barraspalding

Just seeing your AFVs brings back LOTs of memories when the R first came out. The fueling was bad on the stock tune. But those talks mostly went away as the race ECM were made available. Best $300 one could spend on the bike. Totally transforms the motor into a BEAST.

I have also given up on riding a motorcycle in the city. SOme of it was because this bike sucks at it and the fact it's a nightmare with 50% of drivers being distracted and the other 50% just being plain bad at driving. I don't like the odds. So now my R is the weekend foothills thrill ride. Both the bike and myself like it MUCH better!
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Dannybuell
Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2018 - 10:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

@ Fresnobuell

I didn't ride it much until the medium silencer arrived. LEOs and all... By then any memory of the zero restriction setup was forgotten.

the K&N, EBR, Barker is a sweet setup, with or without the air box.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2018 - 10:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I first got my 1125 I had Dan at NRHS dyno it as soon as broken in.
She showed 128HP, two other dynos in the ensuing year showed 127 and 126.

Before I took her down for a big bore kit, at 40k miles, she only made 116 on NRHS' dyno.

That same dyno(DJ 250i) put my 1190RS at 158 HP.
155 with just the header pipe.

Z

<edit> 1125 doesn't have rocker arms, cams contact finger followers on top of the valves.
The valve train wears to the tight side.

(Message edited by zac4mac on April 06, 2018)
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Stimbrell
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2018 - 12:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mine when just broken in got 130 HP so within dyno differences. The claimed 145 is at the crank so allow for transmission losses and these figures seem about right.
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Chameleon
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2018 - 11:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Below are a few relevant entries from my 2008 1125R's service history. Those were the only 2 times I checked/adjusted the valves. Drive train was bone stock, including stock exhaust & ECM.

DateMilesNote
2008-01-154Purchased new.
2008-09-3013,20412,400 mile service, 0505 campaign ECM update.
2010-07-2452,525Dyno test: 124.35 HP & 72.85 FtLbs.
2012-09-0562,889Valve clearances checked/adjusted (2 of 8 shims were slightly out of spec & replaced). Cams & timing chains/guides inspected; said they seem fine. Heat shielding installed inside frame. Filled with fresh coolant & AMSOIL.


(Message edited by Chameleon on April 06, 2018)
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2018 - 11:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

@Chameleon

Do you remember if the valves were in spec on the first valve adjustment?

And on the second they basically were in spec as well? other than the out of spec shims?

I know on my early valve adjustment they were fine.

I'd love to know what percentage of valves actually ever get adjusted...
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Chameleon
Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2018 - 04:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes @Fresnobuell, I remember very well that they were perfectly in spec at the first "adjustment" and therefore needed no adjustment which really pissed me off that I had to pay almost $800 for seemingly nothing.

That's why I absolutely refused to do it again for a long time until there was a stronger chance an adjustment was likely needed... The reason I had the valves checked/adjusted after 62k miles was because it was running a bit warmer than it should've, though it still produced good power. That's also the reason I had the heat shield installed at the same time, since the engine had to be rotated anyway.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Monday, April 09, 2018 - 11:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Chameleon, tell us more about what was found exactly on your 62,000 miles valve check please.

Also, I got a chance to take out my re-packed Barker's for the first time. Definitely less noise. Seat of pants dyno says more power as well, felt mostly in the midrange--but of course this is SO subjective. Overall, VERY happy with the results of the re-pack....even if it just means a somewhat quieter pipe.

(Message edited by fresnobuell on April 09, 2018)
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 12:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Whoops. Sorry. THIS is the thread when we were talking the valve check. My bad.

I am gonna PM Chameleon.
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Barraspalding
Posted on Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 09:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So i've flashed on a map supplied via Buelltooth, and the 'feeling' of reduced engine braking on decel is the only drawback. all other parts feel great.

I could live with the lack of engine braking, but i'd like to resolve if possible. Its most notable at low speeds... when rolling upto a roundabout and discovering your going in way too hot : )

Has anyone overcome this when throwing in a new ECM?
I downloaded TunerPro but i've got no idea what i'm doing so would rather not dabble.

No mods other than a 'modified' stock exhaust so I think a stock exhaust tune will be fine.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Monday, April 23, 2018 - 02:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I like the lack of engine braking personally with the race ECM. I find it easier to control the bike when downshifting, especially when leaned over. You should adapt to the lack of engine braking in short order. It's just new and feels different.
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Terrys1980
Posted on Monday, April 23, 2018 - 05:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you can edit the fuel map, adding fuel in the bottom row or two from say 1500 rpm up will give you more engine braking.
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Barraspalding
Posted on Monday, April 23, 2018 - 08:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

@FresnoBuell - i've given it a couple weeks but i'm not comfortable with it. Even if i could half get back what the stock tune had i'd be happy.
I've felt a couple times on a dead flat road with no head wind the bike maintaining its speed for a lengthy period. Hats off to the rolling efficiency of the 1125r, but i'm not a fan!

I d/l TunerPro (not RT) but am in the dark, so if anyone knows of an idiots guide to using the tool - once i'm there I can use Terry's suggestion above and any others spotted around here.
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