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Mesozoic
Posted on Thursday, January 18, 2018 - 02:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've got a pretty good leak coming from the clutch housing cover on the rightside of the bike. It looks exactly as like this. Aside from replacing the gasket is there a new, better clutch housing cover or any upgrades I should consider while repairing it?
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Willmrx
Posted on Thursday, January 18, 2018 - 10:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not good! Can I assume that you have tried to tighten the cover screws? If so and it still is leaking, you or going to have to rotate the engine and remove the cover and see what going on. It maybe the gasket, just a guess. good luck!

(Message edited by willmrx on January 18, 2018)
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Mesozoic
Posted on Thursday, January 18, 2018 - 10:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, I used the service manual to torque all fasteners in the correct sequence to 97 in-lbs, still leaking. I don't see any way to avoid tearing the bike down. I figure I may as well upgrade the exhaust, change the plugs, and adjust the valves while I'm in there.

Is it a good idea to upgrade to the 2010 model year clutch housing at this point? I believe it uses different parts for seals and things as well. Already ordered the Oberon part.

(Message edited by Mesozoic on January 18, 2018)
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Stimbrell
Posted on Thursday, January 18, 2018 - 12:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I very much hope I am wrong but where I have seen similar on this board the reason has been the nut on the end of the crank has come loose and destroyed the case, any unusual noises before this leak appeared?
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Mesozoic
Posted on Thursday, January 18, 2018 - 01:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The only unusual noises I'm picking up on are if I let the engine run below 3000 RPM I believe I can hear the cam chain slapping around since it doesn't "like" running at that low an RPM. The engine has 17000 miles on it and runs great otherwise.

I will check to see what procedure is needed to inspect the crank nut, though.
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Willmrx
Posted on Friday, January 19, 2018 - 08:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I rebuilt my 2008, I upgraded to 2010 housing, everything is different on the 2010, the seal, bearing and shaft. so you need more then just the housing.
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Mesozoic
Posted on Saturday, January 20, 2018 - 09:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, I determined all the part numbers, about $400 worth of parts to complete the job. However, I seem to have bought some time while the parts arrive by sparingly applying some Permatex Right Stuff onto a 3" section of the leaking interface. I didn't think it would work, but it seems to be!
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Willmrx
Posted on Saturday, January 20, 2018 - 10:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I found one on E bay for cheap, I replace the seals and bearing.
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Mesozoic
Posted on Monday, February 05, 2018 - 01:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, I've put some miles and heat cycles on the engine and the Permatex fix seems to be holding. I've had some clutch actuator housing weep, however so I purchased the Oberon part and installed it this weekend. Seems to be holding up as well, no more leaks out of the right side of the engine!

It's a good thing I went into the clutch actuator because it requires draining the fluid line and my fluid looked awful.
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