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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Instrument Cluster - Gear indicator version swap « Previous Next »

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Klrbird
Posted on Sunday, December 31, 2017 - 09:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've lurked far too long and researched this but need the experts info on this one. I'd like to upgrade my '08 IC with the "09" version to get the gear indicator feature. The ICs are interchangeable and have the same part #. Some new ones are available on EBay showing a Revision "A" and Revision "F". Which revision includes the gear indicator display? I'm not going to purchase merely based on a date of manufacture stamp.


Also, what will this do to my clocked mileage? Used ones for sale indicate a mileage associated with them......am I to infer a new IC is the module that contains the bikes mileage and will show a (new) super low mileage bike!!?!??

Thanks
Dan
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Froggy
Posted on Sunday, December 31, 2017 - 09:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

While they are interchangeable, the part numbers are different. Y0500.1AM is a 08 cluster (no gear indicator), Y0500.2AM is a 09 cluster (with gear indicator), and Y0500.3AM is the 2010 cluster (same as 2009 but has different flasher programming for the incandescent bulbs.)

Used clusters will display the mileage of the bike it came off of. If you want the mileage to match, you will need to buy a new cluster as it will download the mileage off your ECM.

(Message edited by Froggy on December 31, 2017)
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Klrbird
Posted on Sunday, December 31, 2017 - 09:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Awesome. Thank you - here's to a great new year keeping these awesome American machines on the road.
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Fastcarr
Posted on Sunday, December 31, 2017 - 10:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just look for a recent software version on the back of the unit. SW 6.1 or SW 6.2 will give you the gear indicator display.
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B2tomtom
Posted on Monday, January 01, 2018 - 10:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a new 2009 cluster P/N Y0500.2AMA Rev A SW 6.2 that I am selling if you're interested send me a PM.
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Klrbird
Posted on Monday, January 15, 2018 - 09:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

B2TomTom,

I so happened to find that EXACT Rev A 6.2 SW on Ebay for $150. No hard feelings - but PayPal/Ebay was a quick-secure guarantee.

The more i've read up on the IC upgrade for the Gear indicator i realized it will also take care of my older SW...parasitic battery drain i had going on!

I declare victory before 10am! time for another cup of coffee

**Do you think the '09 stator "upgrade" was a bandaid to the IC security system battery drain prior to a root cause actually being discovered? ripple effects being overly aggressive charging rate/overheating/burnt wiring-connector/HD hardness "fix" etc, etc.....
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Froggy
Posted on Monday, January 15, 2018 - 11:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Even without the cluster drain bug, the 08 charging system is barely adequate. If you run accessories or don't keep the revs high enough you won't keep the battery charged. I modified my ECM to make the fans run a little less aggressively, to help keep things charged when I have the high beam or heated gear on.


The 09 system has quite a bit more power and generates more at lower RPMs, making it work better for a street bike. The only problem with the 09 stator was that it did not have sufficient cooling at lower RPMs resulting in premature failure.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Sunday, January 21, 2018 - 06:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

4 incandescent halogen headlight bulbs eat 140+ watts.
Convert to HID, or better LED, and you have lots of electrons from an 08.
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Sunday, January 21, 2018 - 07:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+1 what zac said
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Barraspalding
Posted on Sunday, January 21, 2018 - 07:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What brand of LED's have you gone for? I see many of EBAY but not confident in their ability to match or exceed a std H8 bulb output.
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Barraspalding
Posted on Sunday, January 21, 2018 - 09:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Also - i see alot of the LED H8 bulbs are >35w (60w, some are 80w), and excuse my non-electrical minded brain; but more watts could be less drain on the battery?
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Zacks
Posted on Sunday, January 21, 2018 - 10:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

...more watts could be less drain on the battery?

Opposite - more drain.

Lumens are what you need to be looking for. A measure of how bright the light is.
Barring that, you can usually find a xxW equivalent to give you an idea.
Then there's color. A higher temperature (xxx K) will be 'bluer' and appear to be brighter when you're looking at it.
Opinions vary as to if they're actually brighter in reality.

YMMV
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Willmrx
Posted on Sunday, January 21, 2018 - 11:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Voltage is measured in volts, current is measured in amps and resistance is measured in ohms. A neat analogy to help understand these terms is a system of plumbing pipes. The voltage is equivalent to the water pressure, the current is equivalent to the flow rate, and the resistance is like the pipe size. Watts and volts are two different things. That is like asking if moving something at a certain speed (feet per second) is "stronger than" the force pushing on it (pounds). Voltage is the electrical force which tries to move charge (i.e. electrons) if they can be moved.
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Barraspalding
Posted on Monday, January 22, 2018 - 12:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

and my ignorance doesn't know where Watts comes into it : )

My straight forward question is - is it better for the 1125 electrical system to have the OEM 35w globes, or have LED's (that I find are, per globe, a higher wattage than 35w).

each persons situation will be different, I don't intend to have any auxiliary lights or USB powered devices, and highly expect i'll not go after heated grips (only 1 or 2 months where it gets cold... and 5-10degrees celsius probably isn't that cold in some peoples opinions/experiences).
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Zacks
Posted on Monday, January 22, 2018 - 07:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Straightforward answer:
Higher wattage bulbs will drain the battery sooner. Period.

But, as I said above, check if the ratings you're given are truly watts and not watt equivalent.
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Terrys1980
Posted on Monday, January 22, 2018 - 09:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

LED headlights are not watt equivalent. With LEDs, it takes 10 watts per 1000 lumens. So if it says 8000 lumen, it's definitely drawing 80 watts. That's about 6 amps at 13.5 volts.
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