Author |
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Panshovevo
| Posted on Monday, September 14, 2015 - 10:08 pm: |
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The previous owner of my '08 R did a good job of "screwing up" the threaded inserts in the sub-frame for the seat bolts. I watched him remove and re-install the bolts with a battery powered drill driver before I bought it, and knew they'd be a problem. Sure enough, the threads are buggered up, and one insert is loose in the sub-frame. Has anyone ever tried running a stud and nut into the insert, then tightening the nut to try to pull the insert tighter in the frame? (Yeah, I have to straighten the threads before trying this...) Edited to reflect one loose insert, not two. (Message edited by Panshovevo on September 15, 2015) |
Dannybuell
| Posted on Monday, September 14, 2015 - 10:32 pm: |
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when you get it figured out buy this! http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/A16501 no worries after that. |
Panshovevo
| Posted on Monday, September 14, 2015 - 10:42 pm: |
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Got them on the CR. Major improvement. |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Monday, September 14, 2015 - 10:50 pm: |
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I made a set for Loretta. I have a small bench lathe and several sticks of 3/8" Ti. I don't use a cotter key, make the posts a little taller and the seat goes nowhere. Pulls off easy, no cotter-pins to pull. |
Panshovevo
| Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2015 - 07:45 am: |
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Interesting thought, Z. I was planning on making some by rounding the heads off of a couple of 6mm stainless Allen head bolts, but it hadn't occurred to me that I could leave the holes and clips out. That way, as long as I could get the internal threads straightened and could get the studs and lock nuts installed, I wouldn't have to worry about whether or not they rotated. The lock/jam nuts may pull the insert tight, but with no holes to align, it wouldn't matter if they didn't. |
Terrys1980
| Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2015 - 08:31 am: |
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I used some 1/4"- 20 x 2" stainless bolts, cut off the bolt head, rounded the shank with a Dremel and used a regular nut to jam it. Never drilled holes or used clips.. |
Slaughter
| Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2015 - 09:07 am: |
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You can get cheapies at McMaster-Carr. It's what I did on my ebay XB subframes I got to replace race-crashed. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivet-nuts/=yy5p a6
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Panshovevo
| Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2015 - 09:42 am: |
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I probably have some somewhere. I have boxes, bins, and buckets of mixed aviation hardware I bought from the remnants of the aircraft engine shop I used to work for, after the owner died, Been saying for years that I was going to sort all of it out...hasn't happened yet. Probably could have done so several times over with the time spent thus far digging through it looking for specific items. |
Panshovevo
| Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2015 - 12:03 pm: |
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I got the threads straightened out by running a M6x1 tap in them. The loose one, I had to bend the edge up in a couple of spots so I could grab and hold it with cutting pliers. Once I got the threads back to a serviceable condition (a thread chaser would have been better than a cutting tap, if I had one in the proper size) I did as suggested above, ran a bolt in the hole with a nut above the insert, then held the bolt and forced the nut down to pull the insert tighter. It seems to have done the job, for now at least. Now I need to make a trip to the hardware store for longer 6mm bolts. What I have on the shelf isn't long enough. Or make some. My big lathe will cut metric threads. (Message edited by Panshovevo on September 15, 2015) |
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