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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through February 12, 2015 » Getting some slack « Previous Next »

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Nobuell
Posted on Sunday, January 18, 2015 - 09:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I completed installation of my chain drive kit. I did some investigation within Badweb and did not find consistent information regarding proper chain slack. The sprocket, swing arm pivot and axel CL alignment cannot be reached (greatest swing arm length). Therefore, the configuration of the 1125R swingarm is such that the distance between the sprocket CL and axle CL increase in length as the shock compresses.

The proper chain slack must be determined at the point that the shock is fully compressed. Rather than try to fully compress the shock to m,make this determination, I had my shop make a temporary strut sized to match the fully compressed shock with the shock length reduced to the minimum. I also had them make a standard strut that matched my normal shock length (13 - 1/16".

I needed to remove the shock to be sent to Penske for rebuild. I installed the temporary short strut after shock removal. This is the point that the sprocket / axle length is at the maximum. I adjusted the chain to have 5/8 slack.


Strut distant



strut up close


Next I wanted to determine the amount of chain slack when the swing arm is in the standard position. This will enable me to properly set the chain slack when the shock is installed. The standard length strut was installed (also used while shock is out for rebuild). I decided that the best location to get a chain slack measurement is adjacent to the swing arm tunnel. When placing the tape measure on the top of the tunnel insert and pushing the chain tight, I measured 1 - 13/16.


Measurment


Now I have a consistent method to set the chain slack when the shock is installed.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, January 18, 2015 - 09:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

...isn't this why the 1190's use a chain tensioner similar to the belt tensioner...?
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Nobuell
Posted on Sunday, January 18, 2015 - 10:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The chain drive kit has an idler gear similar to the 1190 however, it does not work quite like the belt. As identified above, the chain slack changes almost 1-1/2" from full compressed to uncompressed.

The proper slack must be established or damage to the swing arm or engine will result at full shock compression.
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Pmjolly
Posted on Tuesday, January 20, 2015 - 12:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There is a similar discussion taking place on the 1190 owner's facebook group. I am about to perform a similar procedure on my 1190RX. There is debate on proper chain tension. Some say the owner's manual measurements are not tight enough. Others say it should be tighter. I want to see what it looks like at full suspension compression with factory recommended chain slack. BTW, the 1190 has no chain tensioner. Like Nobuell said, it is an idler gear. The gear is not adjustable, or under spring tension. It does nothing for chain adjustment. You have to slide the rear axle back to increase chain tension. Nobuell, how did you determine maximum travel of the suspension? I don't think it would be a good idea for me to compress my shock like that. I want to remove it, but have no clue how much it will normally compress.
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Nobuell
Posted on Tuesday, January 20, 2015 - 06:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a penske shock. I called them and they provided me the minimum eye to eye length.

The 1125 has the same engine and a similar swing arm, should have the same result.

There us published information for the chain drive kit chain slack that I am aware of. The information I found on badweb was inconsistent at best.

What does the 1190 manual say regarding chain slack adjustment?
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Pmjolly
Posted on Tuesday, January 20, 2015 - 02:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here are two pages out of my 1190RX owner's manual concerning chain adjustment. If this is in any way wrong for me to post, I will immediately remove it from both Badweb and my Photobucket. The owners manuals are available for anyone to download on the EBR website under the tab 'Motorcycles'. There is talk of revisions coming from EBR. This is in part what started the debate. I am not sure where figure 51 is. I went through the entire manual, and never found more than 37 figures. This is from my revision A manual. The manuals on the EBR site have three more pages. The chain adjustment info has not changed.




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Nobuell
Posted on Tuesday, January 20, 2015 - 10:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the shock travel on the 1190 is the same as my penske, then the 30 mm seems to tight. I measured 46 mm to the top of the chain or approximately 38 mm to th bottom.

Thank you for posing the ebr info
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Red93stang
Posted on Tuesday, January 20, 2015 - 10:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry Tim, off subject but is that a RZ500/RD500LC I spy in the back ground?
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Nobuell
Posted on Wednesday, January 21, 2015 - 11:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Why yes it is. It is an RZ-500. It was my brothers bike that sat in his garage for 15 years. It is 99% there parts wise but needs to have the the engine split to replace leaking crank seals. He told me the reason he quit riding it was the leaking seals causing it to foul plugs. I thought about doing the rebuild and bringing it back to spec but I do not have the time with the track, Mt. Biking and road cycling. It has a US title and was brought in from Canada.

I might be willing to part with it for a decent offer. I have not actively tried to sell it though. I have had it since spring of last year.
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Nobuell
Posted on Wednesday, January 21, 2015 - 11:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Why yes it is. It is an RZ-500. It was my brothers bike that sat in his garage for 15 years. It is 99% there parts wise but needs to have the the engine split to replace leaking crank seals. He told me the reason he quit riding it was the leaking seals causing it to foul plugs. I thought about doing the rebuild and bringing it back to spec but I do not have the time with the track, Mt. Biking and road cycling. It has a US title and was brought in from Canada.

I might be willing to part with it for a decent offer. I have not actively tried to sell it though. I have had it since spring of last year.
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Dennis_c
Posted on Wednesday, January 21, 2015 - 02:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nobuell I hope you don't bump your ladder if you do %&^%$#*( $$$ Why don't you use 5/16 or 3/8" eye bolts and screw them into the ceiling joist.
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Red93stang
Posted on Wednesday, January 21, 2015 - 05:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pm sent
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Nobuell
Posted on Wednesday, January 21, 2015 - 10:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dennis_c

It is worse than you think. I actually have steel I-Beam at the top of the garage ceiling. I keep forgetting to borrow /get a beam clamp and a chain fall from my work.

Usually I would use my under engine cradle with my hydraulic lift but I had already installed the exhaust pipe and did not fell like removing it.

Maybe laziness factors in as well.
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