| Author | Message | ||
     Brokengq |
Reading the service manual on rotating the engine. It seems the easiest way to do the job. Couple questions for the guys that have done it. Is a rear wheel clamp necessary? I don't have one. The only reason I can see to use one is added security so the bike doesn't fall over. Same note, why pull the rear axle? If I'm reading this correctly, once the engine is rotated, you can check front cylinder while it is up by the front tire, and the rear cylinder through the airbox opening? Thanks guys. (Message edited by brokengq on April 14, 2014) | ||
| D_adams |
Pull the frame, it's easier that way. Better access to the valve covers, etc. | ||
| Oldog |
duplication>>>> (Message edited by oldog on April 14, 2014) | ||
| Oldog |
Is a rear wheel clamp necessary? No, tie the rear down with tie straps why pull the rear axle? to get slack for rotation, same reason for disconnecting various bits} You will remove the air box floor as part of Preparation for the work this exposes the cover and coil for removal Note if you remove the frame you need some sort of engine stand and a wheel vice rotation does not give the easier access to the engine but you don't need a stand or wheel vice just a jack. | ||
| Brokengq |
Oldog: thanks. You've been extremely helpful. I noticed you're only about an hour from me. Maybe one day we'll hit the road when I'm all finished up. | ||
| Bartone |
I just did this via the rotation method. All i had used was a rear stand and a scissor jack with a piece of wood to support the engine. When i first lowered te engine, the jack was off center and the bike started to tilt and come off the rear stands. Adjusted the position of the jack and it held just fine. I also used some jack stands to support the engine in place while i worked on it in a certain positon. Just the extra added security. When you first rotate the engine, do it slowly and make sure no cables are being caught. ensure there is enough slack in everything. There are some things the manual doesnt mention to unplug but u will find out you need to do it. ie) main harness | ||
| Brokengq |
Thanks Bartone. I'll keep and eye out for those. I'll post back with an updated list of items the service manual leaves out. On a side note I've been doing the research on the shims. Apparently a lot of problems with the kits from Hot Cams. Apparently something to due with the shims being made from an "unknown" metal. (Hot Cams saying it is a 4140 alloy but doesn't seem to know the heat treating). Also a few reports of the shims being very rough from the factory and being "too" easy to smooth out. With all that being said I'm going to err on the side of caution and take my measurements to HD for a set of factory shims. | ||
| Jcjohnson33 |
I just did my 2nd valve check. I used the hot cam kit I looked at the shims and they look exactly like the factory ones after 12,000+ miles between checks. I can still see some of the printed size on them even with the circular shiny marks from the shim rotating in the little cup on the valve. | ||
| Oldog |
We can Do the ride thing Chris, we have a good group, in the eastern / central region of the state, I'm glad that my comments have been helpful we can ride some time.... | ||
| Brokengq |
Sounds good Oldog. I'm just southeast of Raleigh, so a good hour or so to your area. | ||
| Sinnister |
Hey I'm in the Raleigh area too. Are you the Chris I saw at Ray Price the other day? If not it looks like there are about 3 Chris's in Raleigh with 1125's then. LOL. | ||
| Brokengq |
Yep that's me haha. You haven't done the valve service on your cr yet have you? Maybe we should tackle them both so we figure it all out at once. (Message edited by brokengq on April 14, 2014) | ||
| Sinnister |
No I haven't yet. I'm not sure when I'll get to it. I've been pretty busy lately. I'll probably tackle mine in about a month. Gonna wait till my next oil change so I can check my stator upgrade and do some other checks and do new plugs too. I also am going to do the water pump gasket and do the 2010 upgraded stuff for that side, chain oilers, water pump stuff, and I think I may do the clutch actuator too. Got to make a list and start gathering parts before I tear into it. Want to wait for the pollen to go away too. | ||
| Brokengq |
Well the R is down until I can pick up a battery later this week. I'm going to start taking everything apart tomorrow for the valve service. This way I can order the shims I need (if any) when I go to pick up the battery Friday. | ||
| Oldog |
Are you pulling the frame or rotating the engine? | ||
| Brokengq |
I'm going to rotate the engine. I don't have the means to pull the frame. | ||
| Brokengq |
Anyone who has done the engine rotation method...did you have to remove the radiators? It doesn't say you have to in the service manual, but I can't see anyway to remove the k bracket bolt that is connected to the engine without removing the rads...thanks. ***edit*** Some hopeful news. I'm noticing that everything that I'm taking off has been taken off before (wear marks from bolts being taken out, etc.) So I'm pretty hopeful that the service has been done already. Not going to stop now, I'm going to make sure it has been, but it looks good so far that it might be within spec  (Message edited by brokengq on April 15, 2014) | ||
| Mhpalin |
You have to undo all the fasteners that hold the pods and rads on and pull them out and you can get at the K brackets. | ||
| Brokengq |
But I don't have to actually remove the rad hoses or drain the system? | ||
| Mhpalin |
That's right  | ||
| Brokengq |
Thanks Mike. |
