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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Stator/Voltage Regulator/Charging System subforum » Greetings and rotor replacement questions « Previous Next »

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Tommymac92
Posted on Tuesday, February 04, 2014 - 05:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi guys, stumbled upon this board a little while ago and have been reading many of the threads trying to gather some info. I have an 09 1125r that has cooked the electrical system twice in just over 3k miles. I had the wiring modification done under a recall soon after I bough the bike. Fortunately both times all parts were covered under warrantee. I bought the rotor from EBR and have started taking things apart. My 2 questions are one will the rotor replacement solve the problems once and for all esp since I have a brand new stator VR etc... and secondly for removing the stator cover do I need to dis assemble the plug from the VR or can I tie a string to it and snake it through the internals. Weather here on LI will be pretty crummy for some time so I have plenty of garage time in the weeks to come.
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, February 04, 2014 - 06:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The EBR modified rotor fixes the problem for good, as it cures cause of the issue, which is the stator overheating. The wiring harness modification was a bandaid at best and does not fix the issue for many as you experienced. You can safely remove the extra harness after doing the EBR rotor.
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Tommymac92
Posted on Tuesday, February 04, 2014 - 06:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanx for the info, I was a little concerned after reading here how some had problems after the swap. My current system has about 40 miles on it which was the ride home from the dealer.
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, February 04, 2014 - 06:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The only ones that have had failures after the swap were already on damaged stators. It can't repair a broken stator, and it was going to fail soon regardless.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Tuesday, February 04, 2014 - 10:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The stator has a pigtail that's 20 or so inches long.
The 3 wires are routed thru a plastic sleeve.

I have removed the connector body and pulled each wire individually.
I used a 3' length of derailleur cable.

Z
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Dannybuell
Posted on Thursday, February 13, 2014 - 10:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the rotor magnet scuffs a stator wire when being put on or taken off, there is the possibility that the system may be compromised. That rotor magnet is pretty powerful!

make a few alignment dowel's. take one stator cover bolt off and get several about three inches longer. grind the heads off to a point. Screw in the alignment dowel's before you replace the cover.
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Tommymac92
Posted on Thursday, February 13, 2014 - 03:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the tip. The manual said something about using dowels as well. I got the cover off last night and the wires looked ok but I will give them a closer look next week.

Also any tips on where I can get the 32mm deep socket and a torque wrench that goes up to 300 ft/lb. Tired sears and ace hardware but no luck. There is a grainger and harbor freight near by.
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Noobuel
Posted on Thursday, February 13, 2014 - 10:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I used a borrowed Harbor Freight wrench. If I had the spare coin to drop on a quality wrench I'd use maybe 2-3 more times during my lifetime I would have gone with a Gear Wrench. I can't justify that kind of decorative tool.
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Dennis_c
Posted on Friday, February 14, 2014 - 12:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A 1 1/4" deep well fits just as good as a 32mm. Try auto repair shop by them lunch for the use you will probley have take the motor there. You will need a 3/4" female socket for the torque wrench.
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Tommymac92
Posted on Wednesday, February 19, 2014 - 07:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Moving along in my rotor swap, need to drop the exhaust and lock up the crankshaft. I brain farted and thought I needed a 30mm deep socket and not the 32 so I bought the wrong one from HF so I need to return the set and buy the 32mm. Will save me some money too since I can just buy the one piece.

I saw over on apriliaforums that af1 racing sells the green loctite so I wanted to pass that along as its another option to get some if needed.

I also see that any are relocating and swapping the voltage regulators. Starting to think this may be a good idea as well. I had crappy luck with the VR's on my futura and I want to just do all this once and be done with the bike so I can just ride it if the snow ever melts up here.
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Tommymac92
Posted on Monday, February 24, 2014 - 08:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am seeing different things on finding TDC for the crack locking tool. One is rotating the engine, don't want to do that until its time for a valve check. I found this video on youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oVSjXvEIook

I tightened the tool in following that and it seems to be locked in, Just a little hesitant to start loosening the bolt until I am positive its locked properly so I don't break anything.
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Mhpalin
Posted on Monday, February 24, 2014 - 09:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That looks right like the video says if it is locked both ways and you saw it center it is good to go
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Noobuel
Posted on Tuesday, February 25, 2014 - 11:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What kind of damage can be caused to the crank if the tool is not in the correct notch and the lobe of the crank is up against the tool when loosening the rotor nut? Realized too late that that was the case. Got the tool in the right position when tightening the nut though.
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Mhpalin
Posted on Tuesday, February 25, 2014 - 12:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How tight was the nut,did you feel or here any thing unusual,if you didn't feel or here anything and the nut came off okay you should be alright as the hole is in the middle of the connecting rod.Check out page 3-35 I have the 09 manual and it shows a good pic.
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Tommymac92
Posted on Tuesday, February 25, 2014 - 08:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The video was spot on, fist time it wasn't lined up. It felt locked but when I applied pressure it broke loose. Then I made sure that notch as the same as the curveature of the rotor and it locked in and I was able to break the nut loose. I did feel my breake bar flexing before it broke loose so that was a little spooky bit otherwise I am glad I got the nut removed.
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Noobuel
Posted on Wednesday, February 26, 2014 - 12:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The rotor nut on mine broke loose without too much fuss, and there were no horrific sounds despite the locking tool resting on the side of the lobe of the crank as opposed to inside the lobe. Guess I'll have solid confirmation once I fire it up, hopefully next weekend.
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Tommymac92
Posted on Wednesday, February 26, 2014 - 06:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rotor came off quite easily, I ordered Loctite today so now I guess I get ready and wait to start reassembly.
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Mhpalin
Posted on Wednesday, February 26, 2014 - 06:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I did my 08R today the the video is great the nut was very tight compared to my 09CR It did not have as much loctite on it as compared to my 08 I will be doing another 08R this weekend will be interesting to see if it is the same as the build dates are 8 months different.
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Noobuel
Posted on Thursday, February 27, 2014 - 11:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Why are you changing rotors on 08 bikes?
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Mhpalin
Posted on Thursday, February 27, 2014 - 01:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am retorquing the rotor nuts to 300 ft lbs and installing 2010 lower camchain guides
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Oldog
Posted on Thursday, February 27, 2014 - 02:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mike what condition are the lower chain guides that you are removing in when they come out?

curious minds want to know
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Mhpalin
Posted on Thursday, February 27, 2014 - 02:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi Jim the guides are in good shape i am changing them out as the 2010 guides have been changed to oil the chains better.It can't hurt and they are cheap only 10$ each here in Canada.The one on the right is the 2010 one

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Tommymac92
Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2014 - 07:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Torqued down the rotor nut to 295, was easier than I thought, just needed someone to help stabilize the bike so it didn't come off the rearstand. Now I can wait til the kids go to bed and start putting it back together and use my home made dowels : )
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Bubba_
Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2014 - 09:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tommy,
Your homemade dowels. . Easy to make?
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Tommymac92
Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2014 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bubba, they were easy in that I had a ton of spare bolts from my aprilia future which is also a rotax motor. So I used 3 that were the same thread pitch but were longer and I cut and ground down the heads.

That was the easy part, I had a major catastrophe in that the string I used to run the wires through broke on me so now I am kinda suck on how to get the stator wires back up to the top of the bike. took off the top of the air cover box, and it looks like a lot more crap to take apart to get down there.
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Noobuel
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2014 - 04:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Use some mechanic's wire fed from the seat area down the channel then wound around the three stator wires below where they are crimped so it doesn't come loose.
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Tommymac92
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2014 - 08:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I will give it a try. Was trying with a coat hanger with no success. I would thread it in the channel and it was getting hung up. probably need something a bit more flexible
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Shawns
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2014 - 08:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Give this a shot. I use this to run wires all the time.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-23-1-2-in-pick-up-t ool/p-00941322000P?prdNo=15&blockNo=15&blockType=G 15
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Tommymac92
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2014 - 09:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I will try that. I tried with some safety wire I had from my old track bike and it seems to bunch up on something that's about 4 or 5 inches from the opening of that groove. It seems like where it turns to coe under the cover on the bottom is the hang up. I did get a lot of resistance pulling it out so its probably the other wires running through there.
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Noobuel
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2014 - 11:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The tool will not make it through the ~270 turn, the rigid section at the tip is too long. Also, lube the stator wires with some spray silicon, it will help them slide over the insulation of other wires in the channel.
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Tommymac92
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2014 - 02:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Took some doing but was able to guide a wire through the cover on the bottom and run the wires back up. Had to put the air box back together too since I pulled that off to better get to the slot. I got on a roll after that. Have the cover back on and torqued down and got the oil lines back on. ran out of time for the rest and will plug away again tomorrow. just need oil and I think I will get a new air filter then wait for my new exhaust to arrive and we will be good to go.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Thursday, March 20, 2014 - 01:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The bends in the OEM routing make a solid wire like Mechanics wire a tough sell.
You need a wire that's more "limber".
That's why I used a compound twist cable made for bicycle shifters.

Zack
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