| Author | Message | ||
     Imblasted |
So I want to paint the plastics orange. How bad do you think it would look if i rattle-canned them? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Like you rattle-canned them. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
There are too many variables involved when painting plastic parts to say what it would look like. I have had some success and a lot of failures when painting with spray cans. | ||
| Imblasted |
ive painted calipers and wheels with spray paint before and they turned out nicely. but i was unsure of sanding and prepping the plastics. So should i just get them wrapped in vinyl or get them painted? If i spray painted them and decided that they look like crap i guess i could always take them to get painted somewhere | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Rattle cans on plastic, you gotta be REAL sure they are 1000% clean. Or you get lots of "fisheye". | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
I've seen rattle-can jobs look great, and some look like garbage. prep is a big part as well as how you do it/taking your time then finishing it off - sanding and such | ||
| Dannybuell |
do a wrap, it is reversible so the next owner won't be able to punish you for 'your' color. | ||
| Jhuppdog |
If your going to attempt the rattle can paint job use rustoleum universal. I think its a little over $6 at lowes or home depot. I just painted the rear seat cowl this weekend and it came out pretty good. No fish eyes or other issues. It doesn't look like a pro job but it suits me. I scuffed the surface of the plastic with grey scotch brite pad and then washed it with soap and water. A few light coats of paint and your done. I first tried using the valspar paint for plastics and it turned out bad. Fish eyes everywhere. | ||
| Torquehd |
if you know how to, and are experienced with rattle-can, it'll look great. seal it up with some rattle-can clear coat. i've painted bumpers, camper shells, fairings, tail sections, and they've all turned out great and lasted years on end. if you haven't tried it, start experimenting on something small! some tips: 1. sand glossy plastic with fine (maybe 400 grit) sandpaper 2. use denatured alcohol to clean the surface before painting (and don't touch with fingers after cleaning) 3. let paint FULLY dry between coats. and don't go too heavy or you'll get runs and orange peel! 4. wetsand every 3-4 coats. 5. use several coats of clearcoat. 6. wax after you're done! it looks better and will help protect the clearcoat/paint. good luck! | ||
| Imblasted |
i was thinking sand the plastics with 400 then 800 then primer sand with 800 primer then sand with something above 1000 clean with acetone each time. once i have a good looking primer coat then a layer of the color i want. but i think my color choices will be limited as there arent many plastic paints. 1000+ sand clean, another layer, another layer, sand if needed, another 2 layers. I don't have any experience with wet sanding, so if you would give me some tips for that i would wetsand here. final color layer. Clear coat (any suggestions for the clear coat brand and type?) 2 layers sand clean and 2 more layers. WAX! | ||
| Motorhead102482 |
If you plan on using primer as a base, you don't have to use paint for plastic. That paint is meant to go directly onto a plastic surface. If the surface is primered, you can use whatever paint you want. | ||
| Duphuckincati |
I don't have any personal experiance with this stuff, but from the Triumph Bonneville forum... http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-talk/228433-i-surr endered-to-plastihip.html | ||
| Imblasted |
umm that looks like the easiest thing to try first! Im doing it! I have to go find some first | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Good deal, keep us posted. | ||
| Imblasted |
i will be buying the Blaze Orange and either Gold Metalizer, Copper Metalizer, or Pearlizer. Gotta sleep on it and decide which i want. I am going for a very bright orange so either Gold or Pearl is going to win. Maybe ill go crazy and try to do both | ||
| Wymaen |
You aren't seriously going to use acetone, are you? That'll take the paint right off...I mean, MEK might be faster at stripping, but I wouldn't bet on it  | ||
| Imblasted |
not anymore. thats what i used to clean the paint while i was doing a boat, but that was a multi part epoxy type paint. If i were going a different route i would have. | ||
| Wymaen |
Ok, good...I had this horrible vision of you busting ass through 4 coats of primer, 6 coats of color, and then deciding you needed a final wipedown before the clear went on  | ||
| Imblasted |
Haha yea that would suck! I'm going to either use denatured alcohol mixed with some mineral spirits or the company that makes plastidip also makes a pre "dip" cleaner (surprise, surprise). It looks pretty promising, but if it doesn't come out good it just peels off! | ||
| Torquehd |
i agree with wymaen, acetone may take the paint right back off. i think even denatured alcohol can take the paint off, if you leave it on too long or scrub too hard with it. just a quick wipe down. denatured alcohol doesn't leave any residue and evaporates super fast, if i recall correctly, mineral spirits does leave a residue, which defeats the purpose of wiping it down. in my experience, you don't need to use plastic paint. and i've heard nothing but good things about plastidip though i've never used it. the duramaxforum guys are all about it. be sure you put up pics and let us know how it goes! (Message edited by torquehd on March 05, 2013) | ||
| Imblasted |
well Ive ordered my plastidip! I am now going to have to wait for it to arrive. I am trying to decide between gold and silver metal flake, or combining both. | ||
| Battyone |
Did someone say orange???  | ||
| Redbuell1203 |
LOVE the look of the extended swing arm. The color also looks nice. Where do this swingarm come from? | ||
| Battyone |
I made it,just a mock up so I could make a jig to build a proper one. | ||
| Redbuell1203 |
Care to send one this way? | ||
| Battyone |
I think you'd get one made cheaper your side of the pond. DME do a couple of options at around $1000... And their's would take a buell wheel,mine's got fireblade wheels...I don't like not having a cush drive. But I'll have a few done later this year,in steel and aluminium. Including one for 7" slick and bars. Trying to get my race bikes finished first.I've got one in red too. | ||
| Redbuell1203 |
Will be watching out for future videos of ya racing } now back to your regular viewing program. Sorry for the hijacking. | ||
| Imblasted |
OMG! that color is awesome! but that bike altho functional for your purpose... it makes me laugh. It definitely fits your name. I guess living in Miami Beach for 2 years, I got sick of seeing stretched and dropped sport bikes with the fattest tire they could squeeze in there. And the people that rode them were useless just like the bike they would ride no faster than 35 mph, bc the traffic sucks. I never saw one anywhere that the speed limit was above 25. pheww... sorry. Your bike is a great color, but that seat makes me giggle a little bit. now for a little plastidip show and tell. This is my first time trying this. I learned a few things on my first pod cover... anyways here is a sneak peak of the first step, even though it still needs another coat of white to cover better...  | ||
| Redbuell1203 |
I have seen videos of this stuff and it seems durable. Let us know what to u think. | ||
| Imblasted |
PREVIEW tank cover has metal flake fly screen is matte neither have gloss yet  | ||
| Zac4mac |
Do NOT use ethanol on the plastics. It crystallizes the Surlyn. DAMHIK Z | ||
| Imblasted |
only prep i am doing it the "predip spray" from dipyourcar.com it is a completely different application than just regular spray paint. mostly that you have to be within 4-6" of the target for it to dry smooth. its turning out great! I am going to gloss over the metal flake and let it cure for 2 weeks before installing. Luckily i have black plastics on now and they look bad ass compared to the white and black before. |
